No hard fast standards, only general descriptions.
for what you describe, couple cords a years, even the cheapest saw will do. Personally, I'd jump to the mid range just because of speed and life, but anything would work.
Here is some 'cut & pasted' material: part 1
'Occasional use' would be a few hours per year clearing storm wood, fallen branches, fire wood cutting. Typically 30 to 50 cc, 14 or 16 inch bars, plastic housings and parts. Cylinders are cast in and not rebuildable. That doesn't really matter, as the whole saw is maybe $100-200 and simply replacable. Poulan, Homelite, box store Husky models, Sears (usually Poulan) would be typical.
Despite the image and how they are berated by the quality snobs, I think a cheap saw is a very viable option for most people, especially many on this board who seem more homeowner oriented. The arboristsite people tend to be more hard core or pro users.
It takes many years of homeowner use to reach 100 hours. To me, these are good value for the rare user. IMO, much of the bad rap is that the people who buy the cheap box store saws are also the ones least likely to know much about them, or to maintain or use them properly. Keeping a razor sharp chain (i.e. learn to touch up file the chain), proper mix and cleaning filters, etc. makes a huge difference, especially at the low power and rpm these saws typically produce.
'Mid range' is sort of the deluxe homeowner range. They are designed for more life (many hundreds of hours), more power, considerably higher rpm, and excellent for the average firewood cutter. Cylinders and main bearings are usually replaceable (albeit with considerable disassembly). There is more metal and less plastic, better vibration isolation, and a range of larger engines. (Maybe 35 to 70 cc engines). These engines typically support 16 to 20 inch (maybe 24 inch) bars.
Stihl has a wide range in the middle. Husky and Echo box store upper end saws, and many Husky or Echos sold at saw stores, also are in the 'mid range' description. Expect $200 to $400 prices.
I have a Stihl 280 in this range. Good solid performer, 50+cc, 20 inch bar. A bit heavy, but the average homeowner coming from a 35 cc plastic saw would think this was the ultimate wood cutter. Cuts strong and fast, runs clean, and will last the life of the average user.
For most firewood users, I would recommend skipping the cheap saws and going right to the mid range products. They are more of a lifetime purchase, faster production, and more enjoyable to use.
'Pro grade' saws cover the entire size range (35 to 100+ cc) and tend to be specialized tools to make production when time and reliability is important. They are designed for maybe 1000-2000 hours, then can be easily rebuilt several times in their life. They use less plastic and more magnesium for lower weight and higher strength and rigidity (at higher costs of course). Anti vibration systems are usually much better, and more controlled and precise. Consumer saws with spring or rubber AV mounts tend to feel very rubbery and hard to control.
Pro saws may have many features useful when using it for long hours in harsh conditions: compression relief for starting, heated carbs for resistance to icing, heated handlebars to prevent white finger disease.
Pro users tend to have many saws specialized to the task, because time and production are money and profit. There are top handle designs for climbing or for arborist work, huge motor felling saws to get the tree on the ground, high rpm limbing saws, and many other sizes.
'Pro' in a model name means almost nothing. For example the 'Poulan Pro' is a 50 cc plastic saw that would not last a year in pro use, yet it is a nice choice for a higher end of the consumer/homeowner type saws under $200. Another example, the Stihl 026 is a true pro grade limbing saw. The '026 Pro' is the same saw with a compression relief and some carb slight changes. The fundamental construction of both are truly pro grade, regardless of title.
