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Posted By woodmiser,
Nov 19, 2011 at 10:06 PM
That one is only good for 800 deg. Check ebay.
You temp monitor looks good. That is pretty much the same controller I used.
You are right the magnetic mount TC are expensive($50) BUT you can make one for about half the cost (See the pic)( also remove the paint first), you can get the magnet form Amazon.
I would suggest this TC, it is good to 2000 Â°F
I have one, it works well.
If you want to add a nice feature, you may consider adding a push button and relay to silence the alarm, on-off switch, fuse, you would need a larger case mount it all in.
Can you set that rig up so it will go off when the temperature drops below a certain level? On those cold nights it would be nice to be woken up when the stove cools below 300 F.
Yes you can program it to do that.
Good stuff. You're right, I should do it up like you did.
I've been thinking about doing this for a while. Tonight i finally purchased the equipment to do it. Possibly next weekend Ill have it operational. I'm going to try to have my blower on the stove turn on as well as the alarm on overheat.
Even thought about a fire alarm horn strobe. Lot of ideas nothing definite.
I have a K-type 6" probe inserted into the center of my flue about 12-18" above the flue exit. Drilled about a 1/8" hole in the flue, inserted the probe, fits tightly. Also made out of a small piece of sheet metal a little bracket to hold the probe in place, fastened to the flue with pop rivets. The PID shuts off the draft fan if the flue temp goes over the temp setting, turns it back on as soon as flue temp drops. Also have a data logger on a separate K-type probe, and occasionally I will data log flue temps over the course of a burn and chart out the results. Gives a very realistic picture of how a burn progresses, high, gradual fall-off in temp, down to coals. Plus several spikes as the splits fall into better burn positions.
I have a buck 21 and was working on basically rigging up the same type thing. My question is, where should I put the sensor? I was thinking about putting it in the air vent channel held down to the top of the firebox using a weight. But now I am wondering if I should put in on the outside of the stove top... Any thought as to where it should go?
Good idea on turning on with an overheat.
I ordered up items the other day as well.
WES, where did you get the parts for this sensor?
Magnet: Amazon, Master magnetics #07270
TC: PLASTIC PROCESS EQUIPMENT, INC http://www.ppe.com/ #WTCK-160
10-32 brass screw with head turned down, brass nut, spring.
I have my controller set to turn the blower on hi when the stove gets to 670 Â°F .
Works really well, it cools the stove right down. Reduces the possibility of over firing.
Wes, Thanks where did you end up mounting the sensor?
for those of us who are a lot less mechanical, anyone willing to do a step by step tutorial?
Looks like everything arrived yesterday. I plan to install mine in the next few weeks.
Looking at documentation is alarm/buzzer wired in like example on 8.4 on page 4 for driving a load directly since buzzer is 120V AC as well?
Also are you running the following temp sensor code?
4 - J1 as On/off control relay contactor output. SSR output disabled
This from page 2 under Table 2.
In the SYL-1512A2 documentation (Figure 1 / Page 1) it states button 4 (Greater Than) can act as an Alarm mute. Is this not the case?
Actually your schematic answers my question about the buzzer wiring.
In the drawing the neutral needed to close the coil is being switched in the relay.
Not sure why you have a relay. Instructions state that by pushing the > button you will silence the alarm. It works for me without the relay.
Nice work on the writeup!
I hope to get a relay this weekend and get the blower on the stove operating on high temperature. I might not have got off my rear and got this project done if it wasn't for reading this thread. Lot of good ideas here.
My thermocouple seems to be reading a little low on tempature. My magnet may not be holding it tight enough against the stove.
You might be able to tweak the accuracy with section 4.2 in the instructions. So far mine seems accurate on the gas fireplace. Unfortunately my IR is back at cabin so won't know for sure until I get back over there. I've never played with these PIDs before so a little curve for me. They do seem to offer a lot of options in a small package though.
This magnet was actually too long so I had to cut it off some. Seems to work fine though. I then used the Dremel to get the paint off. I think I will paint with some of the extra black stove spray paint I have.
I actually did not see the alarm mute feature back when I built the temp monitor. I did try it yesterday and it did not work. Does it work on your controller? What settings are you using? The relay circuit I have will shut off the alarm when you push the button and reset after the temp drops below the alarm setting.
The temp may appear to be reading low because it takes a little time for the magnet/thermocouple to catch up to the stove top. There is a input offset option that you can use to compensate for a temp difference.
outy=3 got mine working.
Even mine on outy=2 (default) appears to work as well. I am going to change over to 3 since woodmiser had good luck with that setting. Auber is sending out a replacement buzzer. The 12volt version was accidentally sent to me instead of the 120V version. On mine the J1 output will activate at alarm, mute with > and then reactivate J1 again once temp has gone below AL1 and then back above AH1
I think I know what the problem is. Looks like I have an older version, I have the SYL-1512A,
The manual is for SYL-1512A2, which is probably what you have , correct?
Also the website states:
Recently, this controller has been upgraded with many new features. The cold junction compensation circuit has been improved for increased accuracy when used with the thermocouple sensor. A true on/off control mode is added. It is useful for controlling a refrigerator, motor, or solenoid valve that don't favor frequent switching. Users can set the temperature and hysteresis band. It will work like a mechanical thermostat with increased accuracy and tighter temperature range. Limit control function is added and can be used for safety protection and special applications. When connected to a contactor, it can function as a latching relay that will shut off the system if the temperature is out of control. The heater will not be turned on until reset manually. The limit control is also useful for automatic shutdown applications when a certain temperature is reached. e.g., ceramic kiln firing, meat cooking, and distillation. Besides the limit control mode, all the other control modes can be set for either relay output or SSR control output by the user. When using the SSR output, the relay output can be used as an alarm output. A splash proof gasket is added for wet environment and outdoor applications.
The alarm silence is a nice feature, it would greatly simplify the wiring. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
I am thinking about putting 2 controllers in one box to make the ultimate monitor/alarm, stove top and flue temp, all in one unit. :coolsmile: