Direct Connect to *Existing* Stainless Steel Liner?

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Member
Nov 16, 2019
5
MD
I have an old Buck insert clone that came to me free, and has family history. This stove is to be installed in an existing open masonry fireplace. Now here is where it gets interesting. Prior to purchasing home, chimney was inspected and found to be unsafe. Had to be lined with a brand-new SS liner. This was done 1.5 years ago. Later, we asked the same sweep who installed the liner to quote us on installing our Buck clone, and he told us the liner was too large and would need to be replaced for use with a stove. Said it was a big shame because the liner was so new, and quoted $2400 for a new liner and installation.

Fast forward through the summer, and I have come to doing my own measurements. From the top of the 26' chimney, I measure a 10 1/2 by 7 1/2 oval stainless steel liner. Let's call it 8 x 11. The stove flue is 4 x 18. This seems to be almost perfect-- 88 sq. in. of chimney flue and 72 sq. in. of stove flue. This would be well within the tolerances, would it not? I am confused about why the sweep would recommend replacing the almost-new, perfectly good liner. Now, I do understand that a circle is more ideal than an oval; however, this would seem to me well within safe tolerances.

The next wrinkle is my desire to do a direct connect. I have looked around and can't find anyone who has asked this question before. How about doing a direct connect (I can do the whole installation from inside my house) to an existing liner? I won't be "connecting" the liners, but seeing as they will be of similar cross-section, and the chimney is professionally lined to the top, I expect to have good draft and not much trouble with glazing. Why a direct connect, you ask? Because I've waited long enough to have wood heat back in my life, after heating with wood exclusively for five years prior to moving last year, and I'm ready to make this happen. With having a nice liner in there now, and also the possibility of upgrading to a nice refurbished Treemont unit in a few years, I want a safe install that won't break the bank. Thanks for comments, can't wait to join you all by the fire this winter.
 
I have an old Buck insert clone that came to me free, and has family history. This stove is to be installed in an existing open masonry fireplace. Now here is where it gets interesting. Prior to purchasing home, chimney was inspected and found to be unsafe. Had to be lined with a brand-new SS liner. This was done 1.5 years ago. Later, we asked the same sweep who installed the liner to quote us on installing our Buck clone, and he told us the liner was too large and would need to be replaced for use with a stove. Said it was a big shame because the liner was so new, and quoted $2400 for a new liner and installation.

Fast forward through the summer, and I have come to doing my own measurements. From the top of the 26' chimney, I measure a 10 1/2 by 7 1/2 oval stainless steel liner. Let's call it 8 x 11. The stove flue is 4 x 18. This seems to be almost perfect-- 88 sq. in. of chimney flue and 72 sq. in. of stove flue. This would be well within the tolerances, would it not? I am confused about why the sweep would recommend replacing the almost-new, perfectly good liner. Now, I do understand that a circle is more ideal than an oval; however, this would seem to me well within safe tolerances.

The next wrinkle is my desire to do a direct connect. I have looked around and can't find anyone who has asked this question before. How about doing a direct connect (I can do the whole installation from inside my house) to an existing liner? I won't be "connecting" the liners, but seeing as they will be of similar cross-section, and the chimney is professionally lined to the top, I expect to have good draft and not much trouble with glazing. Why a direct connect, you ask? Because I've waited long enough to have wood heat back in my life, after heating with wood exclusively for five years prior to moving last year, and I'm ready to make this happen. With having a nice liner in there now, and also the possibility of upgrading to a nice refurbished Treemont unit in a few years, I want a safe install that won't break the bank. Thanks for comments, can't wait to join you all by the fire this winter.
A direct connect is not going to perform well or be as safe as it should be. Hooking a liner to a stove that was installed to service an open fireplace will not be easy at all.
 
I understand the direct connect option doesn't perform as well as the full-length liner, but I am going from "no heat" to "some heat" here. Keep in mind that this stove was installed in my grandfather's home as a "slammer" for over 30 years, and provided serious warmth to two floors of his house. I grew up with it and remember how warm that basement got. I am not going to "slam" the stove since I understand the hazards involved. But I am interested in learning from the experienced people here about the idea of direct-connecting to an existing stainless steel liner--and also, if anyone has any thoughts on why the sweep would have said the liner was "too big" for the stove when it has nearly the same cross-sectional area as the stove flue.

The way I understand the breakdown is:
1) Slammer--absolutely not
2) Direct vent--to code in many areas, significantly better than slammer
3) Full reline--best

I am not going to scoff at #2--and I'm thinking, if direct vent (with proper clay above) is okay, wouldn't direct vent with stainless steel liner above be even better? And with the similar cross-sectional areas, I'm not even overly concerned about the space between the two liners--since draft should pull the smoke straight up. Can I get some backup? Am I crazy here?
 
If there was a way to actually hook to an existing liner it would be fine. But honestly a direct connect is only slightly better than a slammer. And I really wish it was no longer allowed by code.