Disassembling the Resolute lll for Cleaning and damper control

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

maniac424

New Member
Feb 2, 2010
2
Cross River, NY
I've had my Resolute lll since 1986, but these past 2 years were the first ones that I've used it on a regular basis. This year, with the exception of a day here or there, I've had a fire burning in it since November. The version I have did not come with glass doors, these were an add on I had to purchase, and it has 2 part fireback. I would like to get access to the baffle and the area behind the lower fireback so that I can clean these areas out. I know that the ash fettle is removed by lifting the right side up first. After that I have no idea as to what order parts should be removed. I've read other posts where people have had stove bolts snap and holes having to be drilled out and retapped. I was just wondering whether the application of a penetrating oil would have loosed these bolts enough so that they could have been removed with out snapping, or if this is a standard occurance with stove bolts as a result of the accumulation soot and creasote over the years.
My next question has to do with the damper control, I've read here of people mentioning how the damper locks into place on their stove, however on mine when I push down the damper handle, the damper just sort sits in the closed position, unlocked and if you hit the handle the damper will fall back into the open position. In the past I have occasionaly pushed down harder on the damper handle to try and get it to lock in position, but have stopped when it began to feel like the handle was going to bend. Strangly enough on three occaions this year, when the stove has been burning in the long burn mode at the recommeded over 550 surface temps, when I've gone to open the damper in order to add more wood, I've found the damper jambed shut. Not wanting to force anything and possibly snap a part, I've come back later to find that the damper opens easily. I've considered two possabilities that might cause this to happen. The first is that a part has expaned from the heat, jambing the damper and then once the temps have dropped, the part shrinks back freeing the jamb. My other thought is that creasote build up may have caused the jamb, but I have no explanation as to why when I come back later the damper opens freely. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I'm by no means a professional stove operator/installer/technician. But, what I found when disassembling my first stove was that no matter how I tried, penetrating oil or heat some bolts may just be too rusty or old to be removed without snapping. If this happens you can drill through the center of the bolt and usually get it to come out without damaging the original whole. Take special care of drilling out the bolts as not to damage the threads in the whole. You may not be able to salvage the threads in the penetration depending on the amount of corrosion. So if you attempt to repair the stove you may want to have a drill and tap handy. The same technique is often applied in my professional line of work as a union carpenter.

As far as the damper, it sounds like the heat may be expanding the piece enough to cause the jamb. But I guess it could also be warped.

Good luck and burn on!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.