Last edited:
Disconnect point
- Thread starter Spaz
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
![[Hearth.com] Disconnect point](/talk/data/attachments/346/346310-63300053135f3b519f68964b3cbfc3f6.jpg?hash=Aqp4g6r2IA)
I see the orange seal looks damaged. Is it reusable and if not what can I use to replace it. I measured the temperature there and it's around 150f. Don't need carbon monoxide poisoning. Local hardware carries sealer good to 350f and aluminum tape good for the same temp.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
That looks like red high heat RTV ie Permatex brand. I have a stove adapter on mine, and it came with a flat gasket, but that is between the stove and the adapter. You can pick some up at Ctire or any auto parts place ect.
I hit Homehardware, it has 450f sealer. I measured the temps, it's 150f there
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Has any body, pulled there stove out to replace the blower by themselves? Or installed their stove by themselves? It looks pretty difficult to me. Especially lining up the pipes at the back.
Many here have recycled or rebuilt stoves or installed them many many times. Yes it’s tough work but it’s gotta be done. Your manual gives all clearances and recommends vent lengths and options.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
There are usually two guys for a new install. Plus 2 more doing other things. By yourself, it would depend on the floor ect. Furniture moving teflon pads would work on a smooth floor. I have not had to deal with it yet, but not looking forward to it. I'd like to raise mine up a bit when the time comes.
I have a sticky mat under mine. It will be me and my mechanic. And I'm useless at 70.
Having a solid hearth is key, I built mine and it has tiles I chose that would accommodate sliding the stove if I needed to…grout I take pride in and makes my stove very easy to move and wiggle/slide to do the work that I know will come in time, including part replacement…
This that 3-4 inch adapter double walled I'm concerned about exhaust fumes leaking. I other words does it slip over the outside and slip inside? I want to make sure it's sealable before I take it apart. I have a tube of sealer. Id have a professional do it but I'm looking at a long wait and it's getting noisy.
Last edited:
NS P-68
Member
The adapter on your pipe will be single wall and will slide over the adapter on your stove. When you have it apart you should clean both surfaces with a wire wheel and remove all the old silicone. When you put it back together you can either run a bead of heat resistant silicone over the seam or tape it with foil tape.
Much thanks, I knew I should have got the tape instead, but I got the the silicone. 👍 It appears it was put on the inside that's why I asked and got a tube if silicon. And will that self tapping screw cut through the adapter or am I drilling a new hole? It appears to be steel.
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Disconnect point](/talk/data/attachments/346/346335-437fcdee8f7f3f4636a32f99ba6d06df.jpg?hash=mOlRYSdatn)
Last edited:
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
I think it's supposed to be friction fit with the RTV. Some may add a screw but you would need to drill it. On mine there is a special Harman adapter tail piece and it bolts onto the stove and then goes onto the double wall like a regular joint.
There's a self tapping screw in it now, but if I miss it putting it back on, then I'll have to drill it. I considered taking the 3 bolts out of the tail pipe/ flue adapter, but I've been told not although it would make life easier. 1 is loose, but of course there's the chance of busting them off.
Why do they not take the 3 bolts off the tail pipe, vs undoing the pipes and having to line them up putting them back on.
Mine is on a hearth with a stone surface, I do have a rubber pad maybe 2" x3" X 1/4" thick under each corner. Once I disconnect the flue (uses 3 clamps) I just use a green handled 2 foot crow bar and wood block to lift each side to alternate midway side to side about midway and walk it out on the hearth. The cold air intake is just a rubber hose to a 2" OD pipe, is a slip fit. I find that it makes for easier walking if each corner (4) gets a piece of plywood under it in place of the rubber at first lift.
I've acquired a 3rd body to help. And 3 of the 3 bolts on the tail flue are loose 🥳 So I'm going to do it that way, no need to unseal, clean messy sealer off and mess around with the pipes themselves.
Last edited:
I used a ramp of oak 2 x lumber to get the stove up on the hearth in 1992, I'd have to do so again to take it down from it, it's 10 or more inches high. The hand truck is one my father in law built to haul welding tanks and gear on, it alone weighs like 50 pounds or so, stove is over 400 pounds.
If I got it on the floor, I can move it to the side door and onto my trailer like I did that player piano using "piano jacks" but neither is something I relish.
I have a drill powered winch that would pull it out the door and into the trailer.
If I got it on the floor, I can move it to the side door and onto my trailer like I did that player piano using "piano jacks" but neither is something I relish.
I have a drill powered winch that would pull it out the door and into the trailer.
NS P-68
Member
Keep in mind there is a gasket behind the tailpipe where it bolts together. If it is in good condition when you pull it apart it can probably be reused. If not it will need to be replaced.
Similar threads
