i have always had an oak hooked up and should do want to keep it that way but last night i unhooked it just to see the difference, what i found was that the burn was much cleaner and the flame much "stiffer"...now it was pretty cold here last night so i did turn the stove up to setting 5.5 on stove temp mode, flame and burn are always as described with the oak connected on settings lower than 5, seems as if on a higher setting the oak isnt giving enough air?...could this be?......no the oak pipe isnt blocked and is only a 4ft run, just curious of any thoughts u guys have
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P38X2
Minister of Fire
I know you stated it already but are you SURE there aren't any obstructions in your OAK? That does seem odd.
Are you in a windy area?
Are you in a windy area?
currently no wind, not much wind last night, no obstructions in oak pipe i ran the pipe brush through it to be sure, i agree very strange
i've also noticed that i dont have such a big fire w/o it, and like i said more active, only on higher setting of 5 did i notice the fire to be this way, also it doesnt seem to be feeding pellets as fast without it, i tried feed rate adjustments before disconnecting but no difference, hate to keep it disconnected but if it continues to run this well i just might
If your OAK tubing is the same size as the inlet on the stove, there should be NO change in the stove operation......same amount of air is being pulled in either way. I disconnected my OAK a year or so ago, just to make sure it wasn't causing any airflow issues (my run is also about 4').....I saw no change at all.
UNLESS, you have a smaller OAK than the inlet, or the screen on the outside is dirty, or blocked somehow (snow, leaves, etc), I just don't see how it can make a difference.
UNLESS, you have a smaller OAK than the inlet, or the screen on the outside is dirty, or blocked somehow (snow, leaves, etc), I just don't see how it can make a difference.
i have the tubing thats the correct size for the stove (purchased from dealer)....fits perfectly snug inside the inlet, screen is clean as well as the tubing, im baffled myself
Could it just be the effects of the incoming outside air being so cold that it is cooling down the fire? Pellets need to be heated to their combustion temperature before they can burn, and blasting super cold air on them isn't going to help the process. It may also explain why you were using more pellets with the OAK. More pellets(fuel) would be needed to be burned to heat the cold air to achieve the same levek of heat output. This may not be noticed under normal weather conditions but only when it's extremely cold. Just a theory... but maybe you could try unhooking it again on a warmer day to see if it is any different.
boosted3g
Feeling the Heat
I know the factory Harman tubing is 2 3/8 while the opening is 2 3/4 on my p61. I dont know if all the models are the same or not.
Birdie Golf- nice avatar. Ive been considering moving to a set of AP1s or AP2's and getting rid of my 08 Callaway FTs. They have held up to a few hundred rounds and just got reshafted last year but im due for a new set of sticks.
Birdie Golf- nice avatar. Ive been considering moving to a set of AP1s or AP2's and getting rid of my 08 Callaway FTs. They have held up to a few hundred rounds and just got reshafted last year but im due for a new set of sticks.
Some OAK lines do not work well with the stove cranked all the way because of there being a screen present.
Yes, that screen can be an air flow restriction, especially if it is a fine one.
Also the last I knew OAKs go over the stove's air inlet and not inside of it.
Maybe later I'll download the P43's manual to see how it is put together.
Yes, that screen can be an air flow restriction, especially if it is a fine one.
Also the last I knew OAKs go over the stove's air inlet and not inside of it.
Maybe later I'll download the P43's manual to see how it is put together.
i sure hope it slips inside the inlet and not over, simply because my dealer whacked me $80 for 4 ft, and said it was the proper size. they've always been so good, but something that small would change it all...thx smokey
i got the 712 AP2's last february and played over 100 rounds with them this year and you wouldnt know it, the quality is unreal, not as forgiving as the AP1's but if your a single digit handicapper u wont have a problem, they feel great when you strike that ball
According to Lousyweather in this post https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/oak.42763/#post-538721 it goes inside the air intake and should be held in place with some RTV. The part number and such is in the post.
INSIDE the inlet?? That's way a Harman OAK is set up? Seems to me that will cause somewhat of a restriction......
JohnRXL
Member
That is so odd that you disconnect the fresh air (oxygen) that feeds the fire and it burns better?
It's hard to tell because house fires are of a much bigger scale and no two houses and fires are the same to compare and quantify the results. But, I can tell you that you can put a torch to a pan full of diesel in this weather and it will take a long time to ignite if you can get it to burn at all. In the middle of summer it will light right up. So, in theory, very cold air that is concentrated through the OAK straight in to the burn pot could have an effect on the fuel being burned.
movemaine
Minister of Fire
yeah. Chemistry 101 - oxygen is oxygen, fuel is fuel, and they will come together in almost any temp (except when liquified) and burn. Your diesel example is more indicative of the properties of a liquid in extreme cold temps, versus a dry fuel.
The's not true. Google the fire tetrahedron. In order for something to burn you need fuel, oxygen, and HEAT in or to start the chemical reaction. If you take away any of those the fire will go out. If the fuel is not heated to the point that it off gases flammable vapors then it will not burn!
movemaine
Minister of Fire
Actually, cooling a dry fuel would be the reason that we put water on it when it's on fire.
I honestly don't think a difference of 50-70* air inlet temp is going to make you burn more than extra teaspoon of pellets per bag.
The ignitor is likely not being used in his case(fire already established). The pellet still need to be brought up to their combustion temperature before they can burn. Cold air blowing on them may make the process take longer. Also, once the pellets are burning, some BTU's will be used to heat the incoming pellet to their point of combustion. If there is cold air involved it may take more btu's to accomplish this, hence more pellets may need to be consumed to maintain the same level of heat out put..
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