Do I have to control the damper different for different types of wood?

[cjgoode]

Still kind of new at this. This year I have really dry wood, lesson learned from last year. I have some wood that is very light and burns real fast unless I close the damper ash or poplar maybe, then I have black locust that is very heavy and hard. All has been seasoned for over a year. If I open the damper all the way it burns good but still slow, if I close it half way it goes into a smolder. Is this correct, have to use it different for different types of wood. I have a lot of both woods on my land, if I can learn to burn the black locust that probably would be best for the longest burns.

I am running an Osburn 2200 Bay Window stove. NC Mountains so not real cold, looking to get a good burn all night since its our primary heat.

 

[begreen]

I generally save a really dense wood like locust for the coldest months. It does need more air when burning as compared to the doug fir we normally burn. Oak, hickory, osage orange are also dense woods that may need more air. This will also depend somewhat on the split thickness.

 

[bholler]

For me it was never about more or less air. It was about how much time before shutting the air back. That is where a pipe thermometer is really important

 

[begreen]

I get the same issue with locust as reported. On a cold day I usually am closing the air all the way when burning doug fir. When burning locust I need it open about 20%. If I close it all the way the flame will die out and the wood will smolder, especially on a cold start.

 

[snaple4]

For me it was never about more or less air. It was about how much time before shutting the air back. That is where a pipe thermometer is really important

you can’t expect to make a statement like that without providing numbers without someone asking you can you? You even mentioned the benefit of having a “pipe thermometer”. What temp do you start cutting back and by how much?

edit; just read my post and it came off as me being an a$$. Didn’t mean it in that way.

 

[bholler]

you can’t expect to make a statement like that without providing numbers without someone asking you can you? You even mentioned the benefit of having a “pipe thermometer”. What temp do you start cutting back and by how much?

edit; just read my post and it came off as me being an a$$. Didn’t mean it in that way.

The problem is there is no set answer. In my old house I could start shutting the air back at around 100 on the regency 3100. But there I had over 30 feet of chimney. This house I could wait till 250 or 300 easily. Every stove and chimney will be different you need to figure it out for your setup

 

[moresnow]

Still kind of new at this. This year I have really dry wood, lesson learned from last year. I have some wood that is very light and burns real fast unless I close the damper ash or poplar maybe, then I have black locust that is very heavy and hard. All has been seasoned for over a year. If I open the damper all the way it burns good but still slow, if I close it half way it goes into a smolder. Is this correct, have to use it different for different types of wood. I have a lot of both woods on my land, if I can learn to burn the black locust that probably would be best for the longest burns.

I am running an Osburn 2200 Bay Window stove. NC Mountains so not real cold, looking to get a good burn all night since its our primary heat.

May want to properly check M/C with a meter on your BL as well. Over a year of seasoning might not cut the mustard! Not questioning your seasoning efforts or intent but.... Worth a looksy perhaps.