The wood furnace I'm looking at getting will take a 28" log. all the wood splitters I've seen go to 24" would I be able to burn a whole log as long as I had a good fire already going? I would try to stay with logs 8" in diameter or smaller.
do you need to split 28" logs?
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No reason you couldn't burn 20 or 24 inch logs. Most stoves I have had usually proudly display the max size but I have
found it easier to use a little smaller size than they say.
You will have to ask someone who has the same furnace as you do or read the manual which should give you an indication
if they need to be split or whole.
found it easier to use a little smaller size than they say.
You will have to ask someone who has the same furnace as you do or read the manual which should give you an indication
if they need to be split or whole.
Who's going to be tending/loading the stove? Depending on what type of wood you're burning, a 28" long 8" diameter round might weigh close to 50 pounds. Don't know about you, but I'd sooner deal with splits that are a bit easier to get along with. Rick
I hate to buy a splitter and I really hate to mall split wood. by the time I tack $1000 for the splitter I would only be anther $1000 from the total install of the Wood master boiler I want. I just thought because of the size of fire box taking a 28" log it would be similar to a outdoor boiler as far as not needing to split the wood. I would like a splitter but for now I can only afford the furnace.
I could handle a 50# log but it wouldn't be fun. Also I can get a permit to take up 12 cords of tree tops off state land after the loggers leave, which would be a breeze to load.
I could handle a 50# log but it wouldn't be fun. Also I can get a permit to take up 12 cords of tree tops off state land after the loggers leave, which would be a breeze to load.
Just my opinion here, but I could cut the logs at 28" and try them if the door to the firebox is about the same size as the firebox. If the door is smaller, you might have a devil of a time getting the logs in after you already have a few in there. It might prove that the manufacturer just wants to boast about taking a long log without any thought to actually loading the beast.
What is the worst that could happen? You have a nice big pretty stack of 28" long logs that are a bear to load. No problem, just cut them in half then if you need to. There are no rules in place that I can find that say you cannot load two 14" longs logs end to end to achieve 28". Doing it that way would definitely make loading a lot easier and the firebox can be packed a lot easier too.
Just remember, the more surface area of wood exposed, the more combustion and the hotter the fire.
What is the worst that could happen? You have a nice big pretty stack of 28" long logs that are a bear to load. No problem, just cut them in half then if you need to. There are no rules in place that I can find that say you cannot load two 14" longs logs end to end to achieve 28". Doing it that way would definitely make loading a lot easier and the firebox can be packed a lot easier too.
Just remember, the more surface area of wood exposed, the more combustion and the hotter the fire.
just a quick story.I have contracted to install a solid-pack chimney for a lady who lost her house ,contents, and pets last year for an unusual reason. The wood that had been cut for her was too long. A piece jammed the door slightly ajar-which probably overheated the stove and connector pipe. The ensuing fire took everything.Her house is now re-built , and a new stove and chimney on the way. She is well aware that although her new Regency F3100 will accept a 21 inch log (unlike the old smoke-belching monster which will take a 28 inch log) she will get better air circulation and better combustion by using slightly smaller wood.I have seen lots of premature brick liner failure caused by forcing tree trunks into places where they won't fit. Cut and split your wood to a reasonable size. Remember that curing hardwood takes about a year per inch thickness of wood. The honker that you don't splitt might take five years to cure. If you take the time to cut it up, one or two years might do it. The outdoor furnace/boilers are positive draft appliances and are located outside. Forced air makes them capable of "burning" stuff which no-one should ever put in a woodstove. If you ar using a woodfurnace inside your home and venting it into a residential chimney remember that the consequences of burning improper material (potential flue fire) have just moved from the annoyance of an occurence in the back yard, to inside your home. Be smart and be safe.
I agree with the comments. We have been using a wood furnace that will take 8"x24" logs. But the larger pieces have to be be "thrown" in (probably bad on the stove) and sometimes they get caught on other logs and it becomes a real hassle to try to wrestle them in, especially if the fire is hot and smoke starts rolling out the door.
I have found that I prefer more manageable sizes. Along with the idea that wood seasons a lot better if it is spilt. Whole logs covered with bark season slowly.
Ken
I have found that I prefer more manageable sizes. Along with the idea that wood seasons a lot better if it is spilt. Whole logs covered with bark season slowly.
Ken
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