Does a straight Class A chimney need a clean out?

[MattInNH]

I'm running a straight chimney from my 1st floor wood stove up through the attic starting with single wall durablack from the stove and then duraplus (triple wall) from the attic up. It's going to look mostly like those clearance pictures you see in stove manuals.
This is our first time with a metal chimney and a stove that vents through the top. My question is... Do I need a cleanout on this chimney? How would I do that if it's 100% straight?
The only information I could find on this is a video from North line Express where they explain to simply lift the telescoping stove pipe and put a bucket under it to sweep it. I'm not worried about creosote because last year we only generated about 3 cups of it after burning 3 cords of wood (through our masonry chimney that is old).
Thanks for any help!

 

[bholler]

I'm running a straight chimney from my 1st floor wood stove up through the attic starting with single wall durablack from the stove and then duraplus (triple wall) from the attic up. It's going to look mostly like those clearance pictures you see in stove manuals.
This is our first time with a metal chimney and a stove that vents through the top. My question is... Do I need a cleanout on this chimney? How would I do that if it's 100% straight?
The only information I could find on this is a video from North line Express where they explain to simply lift the telescoping stove pipe and put a bucket under it to sweep it. I'm not worried about creosote because last year we only generated about 3 cups of it after burning 3 cords of wood (through our masonry chimney that is old).
Thanks for any help!

No you do not. But I would avoid the triple wall stuff. Go with insulated double wall stuff it is far superior

 

[MainePatsFan]

I pay chimney sweeps now because I have a steel liner up a 25' chimney, but my last house was only about a 15' total length stovepipe chimney so I climbed out on the roof and did it myself taking the cap off and looking a little like Burt from Mary Poppins after. Most of what came down into the stove after sweeping it with a wire stovepipe cleaning brush was just fine soot. Not chunks of creosote. But I figured it was worth doing just in case.

 

[kennyp2339]

How long of a run in the single wall, its highly recommended if your going passed 8ft that you use double wall black pipe, it will keep your flue gasses much warmer and the chimney much cleaner.

 

[MattInNH]

The single wall run from the top of the stove to the ceiling is 66". Thanks

 

[bholler]

The single wall run from the top of the stove to the ceiling is 66". Thanks

That isn't bad. What stove is this for? In most cases you can just clean up through the stove

 

[MattInNH]

It's an Englander 1800 sq ft from home depot. I guess I am concerned about any build up since there are no elbows. But I'm also looking forward to better draft for that same reason. Thanks for the help!

 

[bholler]

It's an Englander 1800 sq ft from home depot. I guess I am concerned about any build up since there are no elbows. But I'm also looking forward to better draft for that same reason. Thanks for the help!

Yeah you can easily clean up through that stove by removing the baffle. Why would the lack of elbows be a problem? It will cause less buildup

 

[MattInNH]

Thanks bholler. It's just I am a long time masonry chimney guy going to the Class A dark side. I'm used to a horizontal thimble allowing creosote to fall down to the bottom of the chimney. My fear with a straight up chimney was creosote falling down to that baffle to get ignited. I thought it was odd that nobody was wondering where the cleanout area was on this metal style setup.
It seemed to me that in order to have a cleanout for a Class A you would have to do a through-the-wall style which is less desirable in my opinion.

 

[begreen]

The best solution is to burn fully seasoned wood. Then there should be little to no worry about creosote buildup as long as the stove is run correctly. Many people burning fully seasoned wood in a non-cat with a straight-up chimney just get a cup or two of soot and ash.

 

[timtak]

We hardly get any soot because our chimney is lagged, straight and we use fully seasoned builder's wood leftovers but we live surrounded by forest and my wife is scared of soot causing a forest fire.

We have a 6 inch Selkirk chimney. But there are no 6 inch poly brushes that I can find anyway in Japan only wire ones. Some say wire is okay. I am thinking of creating a soot eater out of an old strimmer head drilled with holes for extra strimmer plastic blades.

Anyone had experience of making a poly brush (and not just increasing the size with air conditioner filter -- nice idea that).

Tim

 

[begreen]

There is more to the sooteater than just the head. The positive, snap-click rods are important as well. You don't want them breaking in the chimney. Is there Amazon in Japan or an equivalent?

 

[timtak]

We have rods. My wife has been using a 10cm wire brush on the end.

I can order a brush from overseas such as this Rutland one via amazon Japan but it is at least 40USD (as opposed to 7- 15 for the wire brush), and I am mean, and like making things.

I will have a look in a home center to see if there is something I can repurpose.