Does adding plaster to drywall count?
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Interesting. How about a detached pole barn, that may or may not have a car in it at some point in it's life?
not if there is anytime gas or gasoline etc. in there, whether in a car, lawnmower, or jerrycans.
IF you do it (you'd not be the only one), I suggest you look up Canadian code that does allow it - as long as the stove is set a certain height above the floor (1ft?).
What is the code for that specifies drywall thickness? (it's not clearances, as the paper on the drywall already is flammable...)
IF you do it (you'd not be the only one), I suggest you look up Canadian code that does allow it - as long as the stove is set a certain height above the floor (1ft?).
What is the code for that specifies drywall thickness? (it's not clearances, as the paper on the drywall already is flammable...)
The only car I regularly keep in it is electric. I don't store gas cans in there.
Google AI said 5/8 Type X drywall.
Google AI said 5/8 Type X drywall.
I also added a metal shield with spacers to the side of the stove. I think the firebox is more than 12 inches off the floor, the stove feet are on 8 inch cinder blocks.
The only thing that matters is how far the combustibles are from the stove - and that depends on the stove model (see its manual; for unlisted stoves its 3 ft ! - that can be cut to 1 ft using an approved heat shield spaced 1" of the wall and with a 1" gap at the bottom and open at the top to allow for convection to carry away the heat).
The paper on the drywall is the first combustible the heat sees, and the clearance distance is therefore the distance to the paper facing.
Add more drywall means your combustibles end up 1/2" closer to the stove each time. So that's not advisable.
Methinks Google AI is hallucinating.
The paper on the drywall is the first combustible the heat sees, and the clearance distance is therefore the distance to the paper facing.
Add more drywall means your combustibles end up 1/2" closer to the stove each time. So that's not advisable.
Methinks Google AI is hallucinating.
The clearance to combustibles is the determining factor. Adding plaster doesn't change this. What stove is this for, a UL listed stove or an unlisted old stove.
The electric car question is interesting one. Rules will be changing I think.
The electric car question is interesting one. Rules will be changing I think.
This, an old Kodiak. Sounds like my best bet is to add a metal shield with spacers to the walls.
I'd still add that 5/8 over the existing. Yes, the face is combustible, so you'd need something like begreen mentions, but when it comes to actually spreading a fire, the 5/8 drywall is going to slow it down much better than a half inch. 5/8 over 1/2 is even better.
That doesn't affect code clearance, just actual fire spread.
That doesn't affect code clearance, just actual fire spread.
Can those gaps be larger than 1 inch? Since the stove is 14 inches off the floor and is only about 2 ft tall does the shield need to go from floor to ceiling, minus the 1 inch gaps, or can it be less?
Thinking of something like this, stove is in a corner, angle top of the shield on the left to help reflect some heat into the room, back wall shield would be straight since it's further away. Green circle is a wood stove powered fan, pointed at the stove pipe in reality.
![[Hearth.com] Does adding plaster to drywall count?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/stove-webp.344257/ "[Hearth.com] Does adding plaster to drywall count?")
The angled shield won't make an appreciable difference imo.
I would not point the fan to the pipe unless you don't have a baffle in the stove (i.e. you're pushing too much heat up the pipe).
Then, your insurance may not pay out of something happens with the garage if you have a stove there. Just be aware ..
I would not point the fan to the pipe unless you don't have a baffle in the stove (i.e. you're pushing too much heat up the pipe).
Then, your insurance may not pay out of something happens with the garage if you have a stove there. Just be aware ..
Stove only has a small baffle, and the fan isn't very powerful.
Yes that is a consideration.
If this is one of those small TEG thermal fans try to keep it away from the hottest parts of the stovetop. Getting them too hot can reduce performance permanently. Stick within the recommended operating temperature range.
unless this is one with a bimetallic spring at the bottom that lifts off the fan from the stove top when it gets too hot
Fool proof safety that really works!
I got it at a garage sale years ago, it looks like this, which says it's good to 650F
I'll check with an IR thermometer next time I use it.
Check the bottom. If it looks a bit like this, it has its own overheating safety:
![[Hearth.com] Does adding plaster to drywall count?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/1766527280288-webp.344276/ "[Hearth.com] Does adding plaster to drywall count?")
That light strip is a bimetallic piece that bends when it gets hot. In doing so it lifts the bottom partly off of the stove top, allowing less heat in the metal frame and traveling up to the thermoelectric element.
Still, of course, if you have the rating of your specific model (rather than some generic one), that is the thing to go by.
Most of these die before 650 F (over time; not immediately), so I assume yours has the bimetallic piece.
That light strip is a bimetallic piece that bends when it gets hot. In doing so it lifts the bottom partly off of the stove top, allowing less heat in the metal frame and traveling up to the thermoelectric element.
Still, of course, if you have the rating of your specific model (rather than some generic one), that is the thing to go by.
Most of these die before 650 F (over time; not immediately), so I assume yours has the bimetallic piece.
Looks like single wall needs 18" of clearance so with the side of the stove at 16" from the wall the pipe would be more than 18" away. Rear is set even further away from the wall.
That's a good one. Mine lasted for several years. I'm not sure about the newer ones but the original Caframos did not have thermal protection.
I just checked, one of my new Amazon (China) thermal fans has protection and the other does not.
If the durock is mounted on lumber studs, you only gain 1/2".
If you are meeting clearance, you can use any normal building material. Fine to use durock but not needed.
I don't even know what a "higher fire rating " means. What matters is that it's not combustible.
One can have an application temperature range but that has nothing to do with fire.
If you are meeting clearance, you can use any normal building material. Fine to use durock but not needed.
I don't even know what a "higher fire rating " means. What matters is that it's not combustible.
One can have an application temperature range but that has nothing to do with fire.
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