does higher price actually equal higher quality??

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corey148

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Oct 4, 2012
29
Western MD
I have been looking at the Jotul line of stoves and noticed the ones that I have been looking at come with a fairly high price tag. The stoves especially the Jotul F 600 Firelight CB look nice and based on some reviews I have read, this stove really puts out the heat. My wife and I really like the appearance as well. However, I have heard stoves like the Drolet and Englander brands also put out significant amounts of heat and have a much lower price tag. How much difference is there really in performance between stoves that cost approximately $1,000 (Drolet & Englander) as compared to stoves like Jotul or Quadrafire which have a significant higher price tag. I am willing to pay for the extra cost if I know I am getting a product that will last for years down the road and will be efficiently heat my house. Any input is much appreciated!!!!
 
Lots of variables here.
Higher price can be attributed to many factors. Size of stove, how many "features" it has, material used in it's construction, whether it has burn tubes, a SS baffle system, cat, t-stat, pretty legs, stamped steel legs. The list goes on.
Do you want a Cadillac, or a Chevy? Lots of "features", or fewer "features" but still able to get you there.
Personally, I'm usually a function over form person. However, I love form. But, if it don't go, I don't care how pretty it is.
I would say, with a very few exceptions, most stoves should last (if cared for) for a good 20 years or more.
Ours is 28. Still runs, but has been superseded by better technology.
Answers will be all over the place on this one. Very subjective.
 
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The only reason I paid more for my particular stove was the legendary burn times and bimetal thermostat. Build quality being a constant (no clue what cheaper stoves have for build quality, may be just fine) it was all about not waking up to a cold house and metered temperature....so function here as we'll. GL!
 
I also wanted efficiency so I could spend less time collecting wood (though I do enjoy it, haha).
 
Ha. According to most, Blaze King is all about function over form, yet it still carries a hefty price tag.

Can't go wrong with the Englander. I'm not a fan of cast iron, but like Dave says, it's subjective.
 
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I guess you pay for what u want. I wanted function, and hopefully (this will be my first burning season) I got it. :)
 
If you stick with companies with a quality reputation and that have a sound financial position, you are most likely paying for what you like since they will all get you to the finish line. If not abused, I feel most stoves will last a long time. Sometimes companies try out new technology that proves a bit finicky such as the VC Everburn technology. Not unlike cars, it's probably best to let others do the testing with new technology.

Matt
 
If price is not the issue, them go for the best one that will fill your needs and wants. A $1000 dollars is a big difference but I'm sure there are many reasons for it, you or someone will have to dissect that... But at the end of the day, it is a big price tag, so get what will make you most happy....gl. Spending more usually gets you better...
 
I agree with Papa Dave. However price and quality are two different issues one having nothing to do with the other. When it comes to stove pricing however, check the different shops available for price variations. The dealers don't have to sell for the manufacturers suggest price. The have room in case they want to move a lot of stoves. So check with them and be prepared to walk away, right on the spot. Sometimes that could get you a hundred or two off the price. As it is, after you buy your stove there will be accessories you may want. My wife could tell you more about that when it comes to pots, tools, decorations, etc. I could be off on this but a midland price range is somewhere around $2500 for a decent stove. You can go up and down from there depending on what you want. If I am off on the pricing, someone please correct me. When it comes to my next stove, I have already made up my mind, at least for now. But I won't require one for some years to come yet.
 
A bunch of it is what you want to look at sitting there in your house 365 days a year. Otherwise: It ain't furniture, it's heat. We happen to have tastes and a house that make our $1,000 steel beast look like one of the family. The two cast iron Jotuls stay in the basement. In fact I need to get around to selling them.
 
I found just by looking at them you will see some differences in the hinges, handles, latches, air adjustment, etc...

Are those differences significant enough for the price to you?
 
Jotul has been making stoves for a very long time. The fact that they have survived so long in this business is a testimony to their success in providing a great product. Quality is important, so are functionality and looks to some folks. You should get the right sized stove for the job that fits your needs.Cast iron is more expensive and labor intensive so it is going to cost more. There is more hand finishing in the process. Life is short. Over the 20 yr life of the stove the difference of $1000 is like less than a dollar a week. If you love the way it looks and heats then that has the high value, regardless of price. A happy wife can be priceless.
 
Stoves are like most other things in life. To some degree you get what you pay for but every once in awhile you find a really good deal on something that turns out to be a great product.

One thing I would suggest consider is the support you will get from the people you buy the stove from. The reason you can't buy a Jotul at Home Depo, is that Jotul requires it's dealers to support the product. That means that when I sell a Jotul to someone and they have any kind of problem we send a service tech out to make whatever repairs may be needed. You won't just get a 1-800 number to call for parts or be required to return a defective product in order to get a new one. It's a comfort level type of thing to many people but I have other customers who are more than ready to do any necessary work themselves if an issue comes up and there is nothing wrong with that either.

Do research and check out reviews of whatever stoves you are looking at. If you feel comfortable that the product has a good track record over time you shouldn't be hesitant to take a good deal when it comes along no matter what name is stamped on the stove.

Warm Regards
 
I don't know why Jeff doesn't like it, but there are a few traits that CI has that you can avoid with steel.

-CI can crack due to abuse or flaws in casting. Plate steel stoves can be repaired with a welder.
-CI is expensive due to foundry costs and the skilled labor needed to run them. While welding is an art, my welds prove that I'm not an artist, but I can make 2 pieces of metal stick to each other. Maybe some of the problems people have with CI came from bad quality or ill fitting castings that were still sent to the customer.
-CI stoves will eventually need their seals refurbished to control where the air enters the stove.

This being said, CI can be a very durable material and make a beautiful stove.

Matt
 
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I see disadvantages but, I just don't see any real advantages for cast iron wood stoves .
Heavy cast iron machinery, oh ya
 
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The castings (like the ribs on the old Resolutes or animals on the sides of Jotuls) are designed to increase surface area. That helps them radiate better than a flat slab of steel. It's also more temperature stable in fine detail and narrow pieces. I suspect that is why most steel stove doors are still cast iron.
 
i have just replaced my Masport (made in New Zealand) wood stove with a Country Hearth 2000 (Made in China) which was half the price and i can comfortably say the Country Hearth is worth twice as much. It has an excellent build quality and the technology is far Superior. I think, once all my wood has the correct moisture, this stove will heat us out of the house.

Quality is relative - but in this instance i am quite impressed with my Designed in America built in China stove :rolleyes:
 
Wish that when I bought my stove (Osburn 2200) that I would have spent more money. I also bought it for the large fire viewing area. When it comes to stoves, more money usually means a better build, performing stove. Live and learn.
 
What doesn't your current stove do for you? And what model would you go to?

Wish that when I bought my stove (Osburn 2200) that I would have spent more money. I also bought it for the large fire viewing area. When it comes to stoves, more money usually means a better build, performing stove. Live and learn.
 
The castings (like the ribs on the old Resolutes or animals on the sides of Jotuls) are designed to increase surface area. That helps them radiate better than a flat slab of steel. It's also more temperature stable in fine detail and narrow pieces. I suspect that is why most steel stove doors are still cast iron.


Not only do they radiate differently, but iron and steel also conduct & convect different. Iron is an interesting material in that it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity than steel (for direct conduction) but a roughly 40% lower convective heat transfer coefficient. What that means is that if I have a mass of steel and a mass of iron, then I put a flame to one end, the iron piece will more quickly reach a uniform overall temp (as the heat moves through the slab via conduction) but then take a longer time to cool as it convects heat to he surrounding air slower. Radiation is also a component but that is dependent more on surface texture and color so if we wanted to we could get the two materials to radiate at the same rate by painting both flat black.

Couple that property with the fact that iron stoves often have thicker heavier walls for more thermal mass and it explains why they tend to heat and cool slower, or "softer" than steel stoves

Soapstone takes this a step further with a much lower thermal conductivity than either steel or iron.

Code:
Material      Conductivity               coefficient of heat transfer
                                                     (material to air convection)
                    Btu/(ft*hr*::F )                     (Btu/ft2) hr ::F
Steel              23-28                                     1.4
Iron                32-46                                     1.0
Stone            1-6                                          ??


I don't know why Jeff doesn't like it, but there are a few traits that CI has that you can avoid with steel.

-CI can crack due to abuse or flaws in casting. Plate steel stoves can be repaired with a welder.
-CI is expensive due to foundry costs and the skilled labor needed to run them. While welding is an art, my welds prove that I'm not an artist, but I can make 2 pieces of metal stick to each other. Maybe some of the problems people have with CI came from bad quality or ill fitting castings that were still sent to the customer.
-CI stoves will eventually need their seals refurbished to control where the air enters the stove.

This being said, CI can be a very durable material and make a beautiful stove.

Matt

This is all true, and I think CI gets an especially bad rap because of the way Vermont builds their stoves with cemented tongue and groove joints. They are a MASSIVE pain to take apart and rebuild every 10-20 years. I think a lot of other iron stove makers learned the lesson and gasketed seams with bolts are more common in Jotuls' etc. The nice part about an iron stove with gasketed seams is that if something cracks you can buy one panel and replace it with simple homeowner tools.

At the end of the day either material gets the job done and steel has a lot of KISS advantages. For a lot of us Iron is an aesthetic decision and I'm cool with that. :cool:
 
What doesn't your current stove do for you? And what model would you go to?
The stove door does not close right after awhile and then you have to grease it. (does not seem to align right) The stove is level, and I have adjusted the door a few times. The ash pan is very large but can be difficult to slide back in-does not always align right. The stove is constructed using thin gauge steel. The burn times are low, and performance is not there. I like the Woodstock Progress Hybrid (-side load only) and the Lopi Cape Cod. I do like the quality of the Hearthstone Mansfield but the handle mechanism in closing the door needs to be improved. (not designed well) The larger Jotul cast stoves appear to be built well. I am looking at a Cape Cod because I like the build, quality, large fire box, large viewing area and the longer burn times with a CAT.
 
The stove is constructed using thin gauge steel

Locust I'm a bit confused - the 2200 in my stove room is 1/4" plate all around with 5/16" plate on top. The jacket / shield all around is thinner metal, but the innards are built like a tank. I get 8 or 9 hours (to coals) burning a load of 2 year old yellow birch / hard maple with the primary air dialed down, and it's kept 1500 sq ft warm in - 35 deg C.

I admit I don't use the ash pan (it is a bit klunky) but there are threads here that beat the ash pan love 'em or hate 'em thing to death and I'm in the hate-em camp - just a personal preference. I am kinda bummed that I probably need to change out the door gasket after only a few years of mostly weekend burning, but otherwise the only issue I've had with this stove is the sticky air control, which was solved completely (thanks to advice here) in about 2 minutes with a tube of dry graphite powder.

Sounds like maybe you got a bad unit? If so get on SBI for some help - they appear to have provided good customer service based on some accounts here. There is an SBI rep on this list, I believe, who may want to chime in? There seems to be more going on than meets the eye. Hope it all works out....

EDIT - I'm apparently more than just a bit confused. The 2200 does use a 5/16" top plate but otherwise it's welded 3/16" plate. Still a solid heavy stove, but just wanted to correct my original error, FWIW...
 
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The stove door does not close right after awhile and then you have to grease it. (does not seem to align right)

What do you mean with "after a while"? Sounds almost like it's bending maybe because of the heat?! Did you check with SBI? Doors can be replaced and yours is maybe defective.

The stove is level, and I have adjusted the door a few times. The ash pan is very large but can be difficult to slide back in-does not always align right.

Ever thought of just stuffing gasket rope in there and keep it closed? I think Osburn stoves are not the only ones where people here had problems with leakiness and decided to close the ash pan off for good.

The stove is constructed using thin gauge steel. The burn times are low, and performance is not there.

Should you want some help maybe you can answer some questions: What are your stove temps? What do you define as burn times? Which kind of wood do you burn? How long has it been seasoned? How full do you load the stove for an overnight burn? What is your usual setting of the air control? How much draft do you have?
 
A bunch of it is what you want to look at sitting there in your house 365 days a year. Otherwise: It ain't furniture, it's heat. We happen to have tastes and a house that make our $1,000 steel beast look like one of the family. The two cast iron Jotuls stay in the basement. In fact I need to get around to selling them.

+1 on this. We have a Jotul Castine in brown. It's beautiful. I shelled out extra [about $500 if I recall] for the fancy finish to make the wife happy. I have no complaints, but if I was a single guy I'd probably have gone with an Englander and saved myself $1,500. The price of marital bliss, I guess.
 
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