Doing alot of reading........... now have questions on install W.Stove

[Coachgeo]

Im getting a Drolet Rocket for my approx 700 sq foot tiny home 6" pipe is what it calls for ( http://www.efireplacestore.com/sbi-db03185.html )

Though not advertised it does have a secondary combustion system along with the Fire Brick same as the Pyropack ( http://www.efireplacestore.com/sbi-db03180.html ) Thus efficiency rating is listed at 82%

I have an old Oil heater furnace chimney still in place. set up like below description in an L shaped home. Chimney and living space is in the dog leg of the L. Dogleg is an addition done back in mid 60's and the main/original structure being kitchen and ONE bedroom build late 50's)

Lay out of area I assume is best to put this is against the long wall of the original structure inside the dog leg. If facing the wood heater location as described; this puts your back facing open space of the dog leg.

from left to right: (see picture)

Left Outside wall of dog leg addition, Door to kitchen thru wall of original structure, 8"? inches of wall, Chimney, <-- flue hole on right face of chimney (in picture it is encased to left of closet), about 4 feet of wall (presently a closet), Door *thru wall of original structure to bed room, Right outside wall of dog leg and in line with back wall of original structure.

so yes......... looks like originally the oil burner sat to the right of the chimney before that closet was installed. .......... thus the inlet to the stove being on its right face.

My thoughts are to put the Drolet Rocket in that 4 foot space, but that puts heater flu needing to have a 90 degree bend to the left before it does the 90 degree to turn up the chimney.Any suggestions on best way to do this aesthetically as well as for function. hole in the chimney for the pipe is approx. 6' high. Two 45's instead of 90 out of stove?

I want to keep in mind chimney Clean out. This already looks to be an issue cause I cant see how one could clean from inside the home thru the vertical chimney with a push up thru chimney style brush. With STEEP roof its not very accessible from top......... Im a gymnastic coach and in damn good shape for 50+ but 30years from now I'll still be here and who knows by then. Durring winter........ roof top clean out WAY to dangerous cause I suspect a cold roof is slippery compared to summer hot roof I climbed on today. hmmmmmmmmm. ok...... how about this idea https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/clean-out-apparatis-will-this-work.113339/


ORRRRRRRRR should I scrap using that old Oil burner's chimney and go with a metal one all the way out the ceiling? Or move stove to another wall and go out ceiling or exit out a side wall? This way no expense of chimney liner. Later break up and remove the cement block one when I do a reroof?

I know......... lot of questions......... and yes........ I truly have done ton of reading and research already.


* (This was added later....... original bedroom door is now covered up and was between kitchen and bedroom in original structure.)

George
coach Gymnastic Sports
Also moderator:
benzworld.org/forums/unimog
burnveg.com/forum

Other odd project........ Diesel Motorcycle (TriBota Tiger 1997 Dual Sport)

 

[Coachgeo]

picture of old home. You can see chimney sticking out of the addition. Kitchen door outside is NOT kitchen door refered to in description above.

Legs on the Stove are stated to be tall enough to meet code above a non combustible surface. My floor is wood. What is minimum construction I can do here that will last for years as floor cover? I have available a bunch of old wall bricks (solid) I can put them here. Im on a freaking tight budget. Thus why I bought such an old TINY home. It is on one acre though
Brick hearth pads......... DAMNNNNNNN there expensive. nearly half the cost of the stove. What about plaster board on floor with steel above that? nah....... I doubt it.

Eventually I will do QUALITY more authentic-ish looking Amish chink type 12" tall Log look siding inside and out on the exterior walls. As well as add a tiny loft area to hold bed (or office space?) in bedroom to better use space as well as same idea in dog leg for a TINY second bedroom. The roof has a very steep pitch.

Chimney has one approx 8"x8" clay liner thru it. It goes to ground but unless it is in the crawl space I do not see a clean out.

So there lies another question. Do I need a new liner on the chimney? All the clay tube liners look good but the very top one which is off set to one side an inch or so and has a hole on two opposing sides. There is a red clay brick chimney on roof and a cement cap around the top as well . Looks like straight pipe would be cheapest. Flex is EXPENSIVE......... and it is only about 10 to 12 foot drop. Suggestions here?

Also any suggestions on best stuff to cover the cement block type furnace chimney in the house to something more aesthetic and authintic-ish to Amish Log home? Red brick on roof already off period so might as well match that inside too so it at least is consistent from top to bottom? But???

 

[Pallet Pete]

Im getting a Drolet Rocket for my approx 700 sq foot tiny home 6" pipe is what it calls for ( http://www.efireplacestore.com/sbi-db03185.html )

Though not advertised it does have a secondary combustion system along with the Fire Brick same as the Pyropack ( http://www.efireplacestore.com/sbi-db03180.html ) Thus efficiency rating is listed at 82%

I have an old Oil heater furnace chimney still in place. set up like below description in an L shaped home. Chimney and living space is in the dog leg of the L. Dogleg is an addition done back in mid 60's and the main/original structure being kitchen and ONE bedroom build late 50's)

Lay out of area I assume is best to put this is against the long wall of the original structure inside the dog leg. If facing the wood heater location as described; this puts your back facing open space of the dog leg.

from left to right: (see picture)

Left Outside wall of dog leg addition, Door to kitchen thru wall of original structure, 8"? inches of wall, Chimney, <-- flue hole on right face of chimney (in picture it is encased to left of closet), about 4 feet of wall (presently a closet), Door *thru wall of original structure to bed room, Right outside wall of dog leg and in line with back wall of original structure.

so yes......... looks like originally the oil burner sat to the right of the chimney before that closet was installed. .......... thus the inlet to the stove being on its right face.

My thoughts are to put the Drolet Rocket in that 4 foot space, but that puts heater flu needing to have a 90 degree bend to the left before it does the 90 degree to turn up the chimney.Any suggestions on best way to do this aesthetically as well as for function. hole in the chimney for the pipe is approx. 6' high. Two 45's instead of 90 out of stove?

I want to keep in mind chimney Clean out. This already looks to be an issue cause I cant see how one could clean from inside the home thru the vertical chimney with a push up thru chimney style brush. With STEEP roof its not very accessible from top......... Im a gymnastic coach and in damn good shape for 50+ but 30years from now I'll still be here and who knows by then. Durring winter........ roof top clean out WAY to dangerous cause I suspect a cold roof is slippery compared to summer hot roof I climbed on today. hmmmmmmmmm. ok...... how about this idea https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/clean-out-apparatis-will-this-work.113339/


ORRRRRRRRR should I scrap using that old Oil burner's chimney and go with a metal one all the way out the ceiling? Or move stove to another wall and go out ceiling or exit out a side wall? This way no expense of chimney liner. Later break up and remove the cement block one when I do a reroof?

I know......... lot of questions......... and yes........ I truly have done ton of reading and research already.


* (This was added later....... original bedroom door is now covered up and was between kitchen and bedroom in original structure.)

George
coach Gymnastic Sports
Also moderator:
benzworld.org/forums/unimog
burnveg.com/forum

Other odd project........ Diesel Motorcycle (TriBota Tiger 1997 Dual Sport)

First welcome and second WOW THAT'S A LOT TO TAKE IN Lol.

I would say in a 700sq ft home as long as its well insulated you should have no problem heating it with a rocket. The main concern with an inset install is clearances ! If it meets clearances then go for it they look great that way. Personally I would recommend a stainless liner as they are far safer in a chimney fire. Clay can crack and it does not have the ability to hold up under the high heat of a chimney fire like stainless does. Check code as well for the install. You can't install a stove without a stainless liner in my county ( no clay ). If our insurance caught wind of that they would drop us in a heart beat too. The less bends the better it will draft in most cases. There are many people here with bends and no issues however. Yes flex is expensive but then so is stainless pipe do it right dont skimp better to be safe than dead.

Pete

 

[begreen]

I got lost around one of those doglegs. Can you post a simple sketch of the floorplan indicating the current chimney and proposed stove location?

 

[Coachgeo]

First welcome and second WOW THAT'S A LOT TO TAKE IN Lol.

....The main concern with an inset install is clearances ! If it meets clearances then go for it they look great that way.

It will NOT be inset. The closet and walls hiding the chimney in the picture is being torn down. So it will be flat wall space from kitchen entry to the bedroom door that runs behind the exposed chimney.

Personally I would recommend a stainless liner as they are far safer...

Thanks.... was 90% sure chimney had to go with a "proper" metal insert and not go with just clay.

The less bends the better it will draft in most cases. There are many people here with bends and no issues however.

Unless I go with a straight up metal pipe and on out of the roof; not using the block chimney ...... there must but a total of two 90's. No different than a typical out of the a rear wall set up; except one 90 (or two 45's, or three 30's) will take the pipe off to the left instead of to the rear. The other 90 is the thimble into block chimney where it then turns the exhaust up the brick chimney.

Yes flex is expensive but then so is stainless pipe do it right dont skimp better to be safe than dead.

the flex is about double the price of standard stainless two wall straight pipe. Have no intention to skimp.... just do not want to go to unnecessarily overkill either.

How much inside the house should be two wall? The run in the house is only about 3 feet rise and 4 foot turn to left to reach block chimney.

 

[Coachgeo]

I got lost around one of those doglegs. Can you post a simple sketch of the floorplan indicating the current chimney and proposed stove location?

When I first wrote the textual layout... I didn't have a picture in the thread.

With the picture now in that first thread you can get a better mental picture. Picture is taken standing inside the addition facing the original structure. Behind the bit of wall; with plug and thermostat on it is the cement block chimney. When they took out the oil heater. They hid the chimney and build the closet next to it.

In this plan the 3 walls making the Closet and around the chimney will be removed leaving the rear wall running from kitchen entry to bedroom door. The wall running between those two entry's runs behind block chimney. Block chimney is hidden in area that in picture shows to have the thermostat and plug on it. The hole in the chimney is on its right face pointing toward the back door

So looking at the pic (shown below) you will see

Kitchen entrance*, exposed chimney; with hole on right face, 4' or so of wall (wood stove goes in that area) then door to bedroom*. Also shown is back door to back yard on outer wall of addition

*Kitchen and bedroom are actually inside the original building.

 

[begreen]

Adding a liner will definitely be safer and it will allow you to extend the liner a few feet above the chimney which will help draft. What stove are you planning on installing?