Clean out apparatis--- will this work

[Coachgeo]

Iff......... I end up using old (60's) era cement OIL BURNER chimney for wood burning by using a new liner......... then of course I have to clean it eventually. Ability to clean it is a factor in decision on using (or not) the existing old chimney.

With the required odd way to get stove to attach to chimney........up it can't be cleaned from bottom with a push chimney brush (90 degree turn) and pitch of roof makes it very dangerous to do from top. See:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...now-have-questions-on-install-w-stove.113314/

sooooooooo how about this crazy idea.

Please review below and tell me where Im off........ why it might work, might not work........ etc.

Set up a pole strapped to the outside of chimney stack. Maybe an ornament on top like weather vane. A Pully there too

1. in chimney cap set it up to allow movement of a cable up and down inside of liner.

2. Cable runs from pulley into chimney and down to ground

3. Cable inside chimney cap has hook on end guess it would have to be weighted also.

4. Cable pulled to where hook and weight resides on inner top area of chimney cap when not in use.

To clean chimney:

. From outside lower the cable's hook and weight down to level of where the inside stove pipe enters into the chimney.

. With stove pipe removed here......... reach in and pull the cable on into the house.

. Hook the chimney brush to it along with a substantial weight.

. Hook a second cable below that which goes into the house. Now stuff all that it back into the vertical portion of the chimney. Secure a bag to catch soot that drops.

. from outside pull the cable to move the brush up thru the liner

. Weight inserted few steps above brings bush downward........ tugs from outside pull it upward.

. Cable secured from inside is for just in case brush gets stuck and does not want to come down. You can pull it to bring brush down.

. Run the brush up and down the flu several times to clean it.

. Remove the bag now full of creosote.

. remove creosote didn't make it into bag that sits in *L where the liner turned to exit into house

. Remove brush and extra weight and return cable hook to top of chimney cap from out doors.

. clean inside pipe with brush too then replace

WHALA.......... clean chimney from ground level

*in my stove pipe set up I'm thinking mating to the block chimneys exterior from stove with 45 degree elbow instead of 90 so this makes this set up even better for adding bag for clean out. ORR........ have a spare 45 to add just for cleaning if I use a 90 there?

 

[begreen]

Wouldn't it be easier to clean through the clean out at the base of the chimney? If there is none, detach the connector from the stove and chimney and then clean through the thimble.

 

[Coachgeo]

Wouldn't it be easier to clean through the clean out at the base of the chimney? If there is none, detach the connector from the stove and chimney and then clean through the thimble.

There is no clean out in the chimney.

The thimble ??? not real sure what that is yet. I believe you refer to the plumbing that connects into the hole of the cement block chimney. There will be no wall around the chimney. Im leaving it bare.

There is a round hole in the chimney that the oil stove hooked into. Hmmm?? 8" maybe. It is perpendicular to the vertical stack. There is a 8 foot drop below this of empty chimney space and about 12 foot rise out the roof above it out the roof. With the liner installed and the 90 degree attachment that will route the liner out this hole......... you wont be able to install a brush pole into the chimney cause of the small size round hole......... if you could by some miracle you would not be albe to push a brush upward

 

[begreen]

The thimble is the claypipe entrance into the flue through the chimney brick. A clean out door could be added with a lot less work. If you do this, be sure to get a gasketed door for a good seal or make your own gasket using silicone adhesive.

Or perhaps get a sooteater. Their rods should flex enough if you enter at an angle from the bottom of the thimble.

 

[Coachgeo]

Thank you. Did not realize the rods can bed that much. Any suggestions on where to read up on adding a clean out door. This unit is NOT BRICK well not the little orange/red ones. It is large cement block. Solid I assume

 

[begreen]

Is there a clay tile liner in the block flue?

 

[Coachgeo]

Is there a clay tile liner in the block flue?

Yes. looks to be 8" x 8" or so.

so the metal liner I assume I have to install into the chimney.... won't it have a 90 connection out the brick hole? hmmm. guess I need to look closer on how liners are installed.? I thought the once installed it closed off completely access to the inner inserted metal liner from below unlike shown in the drawings.

 

[begreen]

OK, I was assuming you were not going to install a stainless liner. With an 8x8 tile liner in good shape it may be ok to forgo this depending on the stove requirements. If you do put in a metal liner then consider adding a leg going down from the tee to just above the cleanout door. The leg would have a cap on the bottom. Open the cleanout door, pull the cap and clean. If you decide to go this route, first measure how far down the tile liner goes past the thimble hole. It could be solid block at the base.

What stove is connecting to the chimney? How much chimney will there be above the thimble?

 

[Coachgeo]

OK, I was assuming you were not going to install a stainless liner. With an 8x8 tile liner in good shape it may be ok to forgo this depending on the stove requirements.

Think I'll just plan double wall steel/stainless liner.

... (with) metal liner then consider adding a leg going down from the tee to just above the cleanout door. The leg would have a cap on the bottom. Open the cleanout door, pull the cap and clean.

Would this section below the thimble also need to be double walled since the heat etc. should be rising upward?

If you decide to go this route, first measure how far down the tile liner goes past the thimble hole. It could be solid block at the base.

. I'll check and try to determine this. Also could maybe fill the flu up to say a foot? from thimble with sand. Then I could clean right out of the thimble hole. Or if that is not good fill it with sand to just below the added clean out door. Clean out door say a foot or two below the thimble?

What stove is connecting to the chimney? How much chimney will there be above the thimble?

it is a Drolet Rocket which is same as a the Drolet Pyropak but with a cast iron door not glass. Above thimble is about 12 to 14 feet if that much to top of chimney which stops about 3 foot above roof?

 

[begreen]

What product are you considering for the liner? Yes, you can also disconnect the stove and clean through the thimble. No need for sand, just cap the bottom of the tee. You may want to extend the liner a foot or two more above the chimney to improve draft.

 

[BrotherBart]

Pay a hundred bucks for two Sooteater kits to get the extra rods. It will make the 90 degree turn. Two kits are cheaper than one kit and extra rods.

Your cable device has been available for sale for years and is a piece of crap.

 

[Coachgeo]

Pay a hundred bucks for two Sooteater kits to get the extra rods. It will make the 90 degree turn. Two kits are cheaper than one kit and extra rods.

Your cable device has been available for sale for years and is a piece of crap.

Crap in design or crap in quality of product?

 

[Coachgeo]

What product are you considering for the liner?

Have not decided. How is the typical insulated double liners at Homedepot or Lowes? Tractor Supply better?

Yes, you can also disconnect the stove and clean through the thimble. No need for sand, just cap the bottom of the tee.

Where are you suggesting this tee to be? The hole in the block is only about 8" to fit the thimble thru to mate up with the liner. The whole chimney interior is only 8x8 right?? (just one row of clay liner). So if only 8x8 how would one be able to reachinside to open caped tee if it is inside the chimney and below the hole the thimble goes into. Unless of course your still saying to add a clean out door.

You may want to extend the liner a foot or two more above the chimney to improve draft.

didn't think of that. Thank you. I'll get a tape measure and try to measure things more accurately so ya'll can be more exact with your suggestions.

 

[begreen]

It sounds like maybe you are looking at pipe and not liner? The only double wall liner I know of is DuraLiner, though maybe there are others. Liner kits are made for this type install. The tee's snout is installed through the thimble hole. The case I was describing was if there is no cleanout door. In this case the cap is on the bottom of the tee. You don't open the capped tee, it stays capped. You just run your shop vac in there to suck up the soot. Use a dry wall bag and filter in the vac to trap the dust.

(broken link removed to http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/rigid_liners.php)
(broken link removed to http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/chimney-liner-kit.php)

 

[BrotherBart]

Here is one of the ones left around.

http://www.swiftchimneycleaner.com/#orderinginformation

 

[Coachgeo]

It sounds like maybe you are looking at pipe and not liner? .......

yep......... I've confused the two in my head. I'll check it out

 

[Coachgeo]

yep......... I've confused the two in my head. I'll check it out

yikes........... at those prices I may have to scrap this whole idea. .

or put it off till next year. Will just have a chunk of pretty metal in my house.

orrrrrrrrrr...... see: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/mix-match-ss-liner.113414/