Door gasket gap

[MoDoug]

My door gasket and glass gasket have developed gaps, ash also settles into this corner where the gaps are. I installed new gaskets before the season, but I noticed the original gasket also had this gap burned into it. I placed the door gasket seam in the same location as the original, which is on the hinge side of the door, in the lower right corner as you face the stove. I don't remember where the glass gasket seam is, but I think it's behind one of the tabs that secure the glass.

Is the gap due to this being the hot spot in my stove, or is it because that is where the gasket seam is? Also I'm guessing the gap burned into the glass gasket is due to the door gasket gap? Would it be better to place the door gasket seam in a different location next time?

This is a Pleasant Hearth LWS-127201

 

[PA. Woodsman]

That's strange. I don't know exactly why it would separate like that, I'm sure when you put it in you cut it so it was snug with the gasket butting right next to itself, don't know why it would do that but I wouldn't think it would become an issue, that is the tightest part on the door so you won't get an air leaking in or backpuffing out, and that is where I put the seam on my stove when I did it about a month ago, it was up a little bit higher on that side but I decided to join it down low like yours is and so far it is fine and closes so darn tight. I wouldn't worry about it becoming a problem, but I would also want to know why it is happening; maybe someone on here would know or your local stove dealer might have an idea.

 

[MoDoug]

My door glass had an air bubble in it, and the manufacturer sent a new glass along with both gaskets. The instructions for my stove says to “start at the hinge side of door”. When I installed the gasket I didn't stretch or compress it, and the seam was pretty much seamless. I do get a nice tight seal around the door, although I haven't done the dollar bill test. I think the next time I replace the gasket I will place the seam a little higher and see what happens.

I've noticed by watching the flames, that when I vent my stove for more air, it has an internal air flow from right to left, which is probably why some ash has settled in that corner. Kind of like water swirling around in a back eddy.

I would think the door gasket replacement varies by stove and use, but about how often does the door gasket need to be replaced? I recently found out the manufacturer discontinued this model, which is concerning.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

It sounds like you did everything correctly, it should be fine. I just redid the gasket in my Dovre Aurora that I bought in 1993, they went out of business years ago but are now somehow part of Quadri fire although they are still made under the Dovre name in Europe so I now what you mean about them being discontinued, but this stove doesn't have many replacement parts and I did stock up on some when I knew they were going out of business. But I must've only the replaced the gasket twice in all of those years, and I think as long as it is not causing any major issues like letting too much air in you would be okay. I knew that this one had to be replaced when I could see some of the orange flame if I looked into the left side of it, and in replacing the gasket I learned that there are different "densities" of them, soft, medium and hard. I got the softest one I could as the others were too thick, adjusted the door and latch as loose as it could go and it still is tighter than I want it to be, but it is flattening out and with time I am sure that I will have to snug the door down.

But as long as you have no major issues I think you would be fine. Maybe clean the ashes out of the door gasket and put some stove/gasket cement in there to fill in that gap?

 

[MoDoug]

With a high of 44 tomorrow, I'm going to shut it down, and give it a cleaning, I may have to toy with the gasket cement in the gap. It's always good to hear reassurance!

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I blew up the picture that you posted and looked at it closer; it appears that the vertical gasket on the inside of the door is already much flatter than the horizontal one on the bottom, is that the case? That would tell me that the door closes much tighter on the hinge part of the door which I would think is normal, mine does the same thing, but the bottom of the door might be looser...is there any way to adjust your door for a tighter seal on the bottom? My stove I can adjust the hinge side of the door and also the latch (other) side, sometimes it is a nice feature and other times it drives me nuts trying to get everything lined up properly lol!

 

[MoDoug]

I blew up the picture that you posted and looked at it closer; it appears that the vertical gasket on the inside of the door is already much flatter than the horizontal one on the bottom, is that the case? That would tell me that the door closes much tighter on the hinge part of the door which I would think is normal, mine does the same thing, but the bottom of the door might be looser...is there any way to adjust your door for a tighter seal on the bottom? My stove I can adjust the hinge side of the door and also the latch (other) side, sometimes it is a nice feature and other times it drives me nuts trying to get everything lined up properly lol!

My door is a basic 2 hinge and a latch, there's no adjusting it. I think part of what you're seeing, as far as the flatness of the vertical part of the gasket, is the gasket has lost it's integrity because of the gap in the gasket. After the coals die down and I get it cleaned it out, I'll do a dollar check and report back.

And I would be the same as you if my door was adjustable! LOL

 

[MoDoug]

I found a couple things.

You were right about the vertical glass gasket, good catch. The gasket was not fully seated between the glass and the door frame. The door has a couple raised areas in the cast iron that must have kept the gasket from being properly installed. I loosened the glass and put it into place. I will make sure that doesn't happen on my next install. But I don't think that is causing my problem.

About the door gasket. There is a rough area on my stove surface where the gasket seals, right where the gap has developed. It's not a smooth finish like it should be. I'm not sure if it's in the paint, the manufacturing process, or possibly some gasket cement that seeped through from the seam being there. But this is the same place the original gasket developed a gap. My first impulse is to grab some sandpaper and gently sand it down, but before I do that I probably need to call the manufacturer since it could be a warranty issue. Not sure what they would do about it though, maybe tell me to sand it down and send a new gasket.

If you zoom in on the picture of the rough spot, there's another rough spot above it, but this one doesn't seem to be causing any problems.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I found a couple things.

You were right about the vertical glass gasket, good catch. The gasket was not fully seated between the glass and the door frame. The door has a couple raised areas in the cast iron that must have kept the gasket from being properly installed. I loosened the glass and put it into place. I will make sure that doesn't happen on my next install. But I don't think that is causing my problem.

About the door gasket. There is a rough area on my stove surface where the gasket seals, right where the gap has developed. It's not a smooth finish like it should be. I'm not sure if it's in the paint, the manufacturing process, or possibly some gasket cement that seeped through from the seam being there. But this is the same place the original gasket developed a gap. My first impulse is to grab some sandpaper and gently sand it down, but before I do that I probably need to call the manufacturer since it could be a warranty issue. Not sure what they would do about it though, maybe tell me to sand it down and send a new gasket.

If you zoom in on the picture of the rough spot, there's another rough spot above it, but this one doesn't seem to be causing any problems.

That's strange. Like you said it could probably be sanded or ground down with a small dremmel wheel, but ask about it before you do anything. Not sure that would cause the gasket to separate but who knows?

You also could buy some smaller gasket as your local stove shop, some of them even have glue/tape already on them, you could just push them into those gaps instead of using stove cement, I just thought of that too. I buy a foot of small gasket every so often and cut it small and jam it in between the gaps in the stovepipe, it works well.

 

[MoDoug]

@PA. Woodsman , I'm not sure that would cause the gasket to separate either, but it's my only clue... LOL I have the original gasket I can cut a piece out of, and a small dab of cement. I called the manufacturer today, they're going to send new gaskets, and I sent the pics to them to see what they think. In the meantime it's business as usual. I'll follow up with what they say. I appreciate your response, you prompted me to dig into this more than I probably would have.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

@PA. Woodsman , I'm not sure that would cause the gasket to separate either, but it's my only clue... LOL I have the original gasket I can cut a piece out of, and a small dab of cement. I called the manufacturer today, they're going to send new gaskets, and I sent the pics to them to see what they think. In the meantime it's business as usual. I'll follow up with what they say. I appreciate your response, you prompted me to dig into this more than I probably would have.

Stuff like this drives me half crazy and I pursue it until the end of the Earth lol! But that way it gets resolved one way or the other....

Cementing a piece of gasket in will work just fine, it probably isn't leaking air there but this way you are covered. Please do follow up with a post on here about what they say for you to do, I am interested to hear their response.

 

[MoDoug]

I heard back from the stove manufacturer about the gasket failures. Their first response was the gasket failure is due to scaling, and to scrap off the black deposition and use high temperature paint to prevent scaling again. I asked what would cause scaling in the first place, and their response is “If the pipe is not set up very efficiently black soot will deposited on the door. The pipe needs to be improved/cleaned. Since this is already out of warranty, you have to call us to purchase any other parts”. They are replacing the door gasket, but not the glass gasket.

A little background, my pipe was installed a little more than a year ago, for insurance reasons I had it professionally inspected, including with a chimney camera, with no issues. The pipe has been cleaned 3 times since being installed, I have only burned seasoned wood, and I watch my temperature gauges to keep them in the optimum burning zones.

My first thought is they're jumping to conclusions without any knowledge of my situation. Before I reply, I would like to see what others think. Maybe there's something to what they're saying. Does it make sense the rough patch on the stove is caused by my pipe not being set up efficiently, and black soot on the door is causing the scaling?

 

[PA. Woodsman]

That sounds like a half assed answer to me?! Maybe someone else will chime in but that doesn't seem to be the reason for any of your issues, I get black soot on my glass a lot of the time and I don't have the issues that you are having....like you said it doesn't sound like they are thinking too deep into it and/or don't fully understand your set up, just sounds far fetched to me!

 

[MoDoug]

I talked to the customer service supervisor. Bottom line, he's going to send me a new glass gasket also. I told him I didn't want anyone to get into trouble, but it's a training opportunity. I still don't know what is causing the gasket to fail, but I'm going to sand down the rough spots, paint it and move on.