Door Gasket Replacement and More!

[Don2222]

Hello

Replacing a door gasket is important to stop air leaks to obtain better fire performance. However the dirty, rusty area next to the door gasket contains that dirty ash and sometimes black creasote. Let's say it is a little SKANKY and putting in a new door gasket does not look so hot next to all this crud!

So what do most people do here?

Painting with high temp black paint works, but can be messy. So I tried some Dry Molly Spray. Since the Molly dries gray in color it seems to look great next to a nice new Graphite Impregnated Door Gasket!

See pics of the Harman P61a-2 fire door below. Click pics to Enlarge
Pic 1 - Frayed and dirty old white rope gasket
Pic 2 - Dirty area next to door gasket and dirty old door gasket.
Pic 3 - Dirty cam latch and dirty rusty screw heads and tabs that hold in window glass
Pic 4 - Wire wheel and drill drive used to remove all the old gasket and scrub off rust and dirt!
Pic 5 - Door is now clean but does not look as nice as it could.
Pic 6 - Glass was masked and a little Dry Moly Spray was used to protect from rust and look newer.
Pic 7 - Using Clear High Temperature Silicone holds the new gasket in and is easy to use.
Pic 8 - New Graphite impregnated door gasket installed starting in lower left hand corner.
Pic 9 - Masking tape removed and glass is cleaned. Molly dries fast and door should be left closed overnight for silicone to cure.

 

[smwilliamson]

if you spray dry molly and then cement in the door gasket, aren't you worried the gasket wont adhere?

 

[smwilliamson]

One has to be sure to let the silicone set before closing the door. The rope will become impregnated with silicone and become very stiff, from experience.

 

[Lousyweather]

I don't dry molly anything on the door.....frankly, the only thing I'd consider dry mollying on the P61 would be the burnpot wingnuts, the rotating latch for the combustion fan cover, the combustion fan impeller set screw, and, well, that's about it.......

 

[smwilliamson]

I don't dry molly anything on the door.....frankly, the only thing I'd consider dry mollying on the P61 would be the burnpot wingnuts, the rotating latch for the combustion fan cover, the combustion fan impeller set screw, and, well, that's about it.......

c'mon...you wouldn't dry molly the igniter?

 

[Lousyweather]

c'mon...you wouldn't dry molly the igniter?

Ive always had a hard time with the igniters on the P61's........they are really hard to get out, and really, really, small.....

 

[moey]

One has to be sure to let the silicone set before closing the door. The rope will become impregnated with silicone and become very stiff, from experience.

Do you need to put any pressure on the gasket while it drying? I thought that was kinda the point of closing it loosely. Ive never done it just guessing I have a new gasket Id like to put on my stove. Thanks..

 

[Don2222]

if you spray dry molly and then cement in the door gasket, aren't you worried the gasket wont adhere?

I did not spray the dry moly in the gasket channel.

 

[smwilliamson]

Use gasket cement if you want to close the door while drying. Silicone is a different animal. Actually you can use silicone and close the door if you don't use half of the tube. It's hard to know how much is enough sometimes.

 

[Don2222]

Do you need to put any pressure on the gasket while it drying? I thought that was kinda the point of closing it loosely. Ive never done it just guessing I have a new gasket Id like to put on my stove. Thanks..

Best thing to do is close the door tight with newspaper in it so any excess RTV will not make the door glued shut.

 

[smwilliamson]

Yes you did! Look at your picture. You taped off the glass but not the channel.

 

[Don2222]

Use gasket cement if you want to close the door while drying. Silicone is a different animal. Actually you can use silicone and close the door if you don't use half of the tube. It's hard to know how much is enough sometimes.

That takes experience Scott. I use high temp Silicone just like many OEMs

 

[smwilliamson]

Best thing to do is close the door tight with newspaper in it so any excess RTV will not make the door glued shut.

If you shut the door and are worried that the silicone will stick the door shut you have used WAY too much silicone and your gasket will become totally stiff when it gets heated.

 

[smwilliamson]

Whatever, dun here. See you guys next April.

 

[Don2222]

I don't dry molly anything on the door.....frankly, the only thing I'd consider dry mollying on the P61 would be the burnpot wingnuts, the rotating latch for the combustion fan cover, the combustion fan impeller set screw, and, well, that's about it.......

Cleaning the rust off the bolts that hold the glass in and spraying dry moly on, keeps them from rusting.

 

[Don2222]

If you shut the door and are worried that the silicone will stick the door shut you have used WAY too much silicone and your gasket will become totally stiff when it gets heated.

That is true, the newspapers is just a nice precaution for one small spot. I have seen cement and furnace cement used. (furnace cement is a big no no) but when hi temp clear silicone dries it is still flexible so it is still the best to use.

 

[smwilliamson]

Actually, black mill pack is the best to use, clear is only rated to 500 degrees and red looks messy.

 

[jtakeman]

Whatever, dun here. See you guys next April.

Sounds like your having too much fun bustin don's chops to leave!

I still remember the green horn that came here asking for our assistance when he was a bit bewildered.

 

[Don2222]

Actually, black mill pack is the best to use, clear is only rated to 500 degrees and red looks messy.

Yes that is true but some people like clear because it does not show.

 

[smwilliamson]

That's why one would use black, cause it doesn't stand out

 

[Don2222]

That's why one would use black, cause it doesn't stand out

It only does not stand out on black stoves! I did a Mohave Red stove with the same tube for clear color! LOL