Door Latch Issues

[MagdalenaP]

I just replaced the door gasket, after a failed dollar bill test. All was going great, until this morning, when the stove started getting too hot. I noticed a tiny gap at the top of the door.

Before putting on the new gasket, I tried adjusting the door latch, by taking out a washer and re-tightening the bolts. When tightened fully, the door wouldn't latch at all, when loosened a tiny bit, it would latch. However, now the actual latch, slightly spins. I think what's happening, is sometimes the position of the latch, is in the right spot, and the door shuts properly, but at other times if the latch moves (when loading more wood), it doesn't sit right, and the door won't seal properly.

To add: The door handle does wiggle a bit (when opened), about a quarter of an inch, should it be? If I tighten too much, the door won't close, if I don't tighten enough the latch spins. There's no in-between.

Ideas? High temp locktight on the latch?

 

[bholler]

I just replaced the door gasket, after a failed dollar bill test. All was going great, until this morning, when the stove started getting too hot. I noticed a tiny gap at the top of the door.

Before putting on the new gasket, I tried adjusting the door latch, by taking out a washer and re-tightening the bolts. When tightened fully, the door wouldn't latch at all, when loosened a tiny bit, it would latch. However, now the actual latch, slightly spins. I think what's happening, is sometimes the position of the latch, is in the right spot, and the door shuts properly, but at other times if the latch moves (when loading more wood), it doesn't sit right, and the door won't seal properly.

To add: The door handle does wiggle a bit (when opened), about a quarter of an inch, should it be? If I tighten too much, the door won't close, if I don't tighten enough the latch spins. There's no in-between.

Ideas? High temp locktight on the latch?

You should have 2 nuts on the handle. Tighten the first one to the desired tension then hold it in place and tighten the second against it.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

If you can't get the latch right and before it drives you crazy you can get a piece of gasket and glue it over your "real" gasket to close that gap. I know my local stove shop sells all different sizes of gasket by the foot, they told me about this trick a few years ago and I did it and it worked, just make sure to use the right gasket cement on it. But I would try the latch a little bit first, but it can drive you crazy, my Dovre Aurora has an adjustable door and it is quite the chore to get all sides lined up properly!

 

[MagdalenaP]

You should have 2 nuts on the handle. Tighten the first one to the desired tension then hold it in place and tighten the second against it.

Thank you so much for the info, you are a wealth of knowledge and have helped me out quite a bit!

I ended up getting a whole new handle assembly from the dealer, as the old one was not only twisted, but the threads were quite stripped, hence the spinning. Installed it and fiddled around with taking out a couple of washers, somewhat good now. However the handle tightens to just about 11/12 o'clock, and I'd like it to be more of a 10 o'clock position...I'll move around some washers in the morning when the stove has cooled off.

Would it be ok if I added some high temp cement (I have the imperial cement left over from when I did the gasket), to secure the last nut? Just to be 100% safe? Thank you in advance

 

[bholler]

If you can't get the latch right and before it drives you crazy you can get a piece of gasket and glue it over your "real" gasket to close that gap. I know my local stove shop sells all different sizes of gasket by the foot, they told me about this trick a few years ago and I did it and it worked, just make sure to use the right gasket cement on it. But I would try the latch a little bit first, but it can drive you crazy, my Dovre Aurora has an adjustable door and it is quite the chore to get all sides lined up properly!

I would strongly recommend against that. If you can't get the latch right it is probably due to something being worn. Extra gasket will only speed that up and possibly end up leading to the need to replace the door. Not to mention it will not hold up long gasket doesn't stick to gasket well.

 

[bholler]

Thank you so much for the info, you are a wealth of knowledge and have helped me out quite a bit!

I ended up getting a whole new handle assembly from the dealer, as the old one was not only twisted, but the threads were quite stripped, hence the spinning. Installed it and fiddled around with taking out a couple of washers, somewhat good now. However the handle tightens to just about 11/12 o'clock, and I'd like it to be more of a 10 o'clock position...I'll move around some washers in the morning when the stove has cooled off.

Would it be ok if I added some high temp cement (I have the imperial cement left over from when I did the gasket), to secure the last nut? Just to be 100% safe? Thank you in advance

It is new gasket it will compress a bit and the handle will come down I would let it go. There should be no need for anything in addition to the double nuts.

 

[MagdalenaP]

It is new gasket it will compress a bit and the handle will come down I would let it go. There should be no need for anything in addition to the double nuts.

3rd re-load today (just did small fires) and still seeing the glow of the flame through the door/gasket...so fed up. The door closes super tight with the handle. I just don't get it.

 

[weatherguy]

Can you take a couple pics so we can look at it?

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I would strongly recommend against that. If you can't get the latch right it is probably due to something being worn. Extra gasket will only speed that up and possibly end up leading to the need to replace the door. Not to mention it will not hold up long gasket doesn't stick to gasket well.

I've had no issues with either one of your points, the gasket held up quite long and the door is working just fine and this is after years of use.

 

[bholler]

3rd re-load today (just did small fires) and still seeing the glow of the flame through the door/gasket...so fed up. The door closes super tight with the handle. I just don't get it.

Check everything with a straight edge

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I know that the door on my stove was never right from the factory, it failed the dollar bill test and even after putting a new gasket on and spending much time adjusting the door and latch we never got the upper left corner to be super tight. But that would only allow a bit more air in it isn't going to leak out unless you have a back puff, perhaps your door has similar issues, how old is your stove? Or something still isn't lined up correctly....

 

[bholler]

I know that the door on my stove was never right from the factory, it failed the dollar bill test and even after putting a new gasket on and spending much time adjusting the door and latch we never got the upper left corner to be super tight. But that would only allow a bit more air in it isn't going to leak out unless you have a back puff, perhaps your door has similar issues, how old is your stove? Or something still isn't lined up correctly....

Yes it will leak in makeing the stove hard to control. It needs fixed

 

[PA. Woodsman]

Yes it will leak in makeing the stove hard to control. It needs fixed

Did this issue ever get resolved? I was looking in the "Articles" section and there is a thread about stove gasket maintenance and step 13 talks about removing the section that fails the "dollar bill test" and putting a smaller gasket on then putting the "real" gasket on top of that. That's similar to what I did in the past but I put the smaller gasket over the larger gasket and it worked for quite awhile. That is if you couldn't fix the latch if that was the true problem.

Did this problem ever get resolved?

 

[HomeinPA]

Yes it will leak in makeing the stove hard to control. It needs fixed

It's kinda like having spongy brakes though, once you get used to the stopping distance you know how close you can tailgate