double wall?? heat shield?? Help!

[1234567890]

Sorry tablet wouldnt let me enter info so here it is.
Basement install ( only place viable I know not best location)
What do I do about clearances to the wood support beam that is 10 inches away? (Current pipe is for oil boiler I am about to remove. Liner is stainless and will be insulated.) Even with double wall how would I insulate the exposed section of flex? Can I hook another piece of flex up and connect straight to stove and wrap flex in insulation?
Lets hear some ideas (I dont care what it looks like because it is in the basement as long as it is safe.)

 

[begreen]

Is this image rotated 90 degrees? The flex stops at the chimney thimble. Once in the basement you go to single or double-wall connector pipe.

Are there other clearance issues besides the beam? How far will the pipe be from the ceiling?

 

[webby3650]

Really you should have a Tee at the bottom of that chimney. The snout of the Tee would protrude into the room. The snout would be trimmed back so double wall stove pipe covers the small amount that's exposed. Double wall pipe Only needs 6"s of clearance.

 

[tfdchief]

I'm with BG. Looks a little strange. Need more info. As for double wall/single wall. There has never been a choice for me. I want more than one piece of 24 gauge steel between me and a fire in my house.....double wall for sure. Just not an option IMO.

 

[1234567890]

Yes image is rotated. The flex comes down chimney and was curved out to hook in oil boiler that is being removed. How would you add a t without disturbing the strucural integrity of the chimney? The brick runs to the basement floor. There is no real thimble it was an old brick chimney that had the liner added by previous owner and I am going to have insulated. The cealing is 18 inches to the bottom of the joists ( I will be adding a 4x8 piece of sheet metal because of it being a little low for the stove clearance.) The pex will be relocated and the wire is spares to the attic and can be moved. Attached is another picture that may help a little.
Thanks for all the help!

 

[begreen]

The tee comes in two pieces. The sleeve and the snout. You attach the tee sleeve with end cap to the liner, then drop the liner in the chimney and align the snout hole in the sleeve with hole in the chimney. Then you tighten the tee snout clamp. This video shows how it's done.

(broken link removed to http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/diy-videos-watch.php?vid=How_to_Install_a_Chimney_Liner_Tee_Connector_Video)

 

[1234567890]

Can it be done without removing liner? What is the point of a t if there is no cleanout door or access from below it? How do you get the soot out when it falls into the t? There are a few offsets and 35 feet or so of chimney. Had a few sweeps look at it (my ladder is not tall enough) and they said to use thermix because removing and reinstalling may tear it.

 

[bholler]

once you put the wood stove in will you have enough room to drop the outlet? If so I would recommend opening the chimney up below that hole put a tee on and straighten out that liner. By doing this you should be low enough or at least low enough to just use a heat shield. This will only work if you will have enough height though. Regardless you should have a tee which could be done by opening the bottom or pulling the liner and then putting a tee on and dropping it again. While you are at it I would consider putting in a cleanout at the bottom as well.

 

[bholler]

The reason for a tee is so there is atleast a little room for dirt to build up before it starts to block off the pipe also allows for condensation to gather there instead of running down into the appliance that is more of an issue with oil of gas than wood though.

 

[1234567890]

So how does it work for all the people with inserts that run the flex straight to it. Do they have issues with dirt build up? I didnt think about the advantage of a lower thimble from adding a t. Definitely something I will ask the sweep. I wonder if the chimney is hollow the whole way down... This project keeps getting more expensive lol. Thought I was good with the liner then learned it wasnt insulated now need to figue the bottom end out.

 

[bholler]

So how does it work for all the people with insearts that run the flex straight to it

Well yes inserts can get a pile of dirt on top of the baffle sometimes. Usually not an issue though but in your case anything coming down the flue will gather at that bend and could cause problems. Your setup would probably work but it is better to take care of it now than find out in the middle of the heating season that you need to fix it then.

 

[webby3650]

It's not issue with an insert really since the liner comes into the top nearly vertical.

There is no reason it won't work like it is, it's just not a common way to do it. That's why you are having issues finding out how to make it right. Normally your double wall stove pipe would just attach to the snout right at the block. As it is, there really isn't a proper way to connect it to the double wall and still have the proper clearances.

 

[webby3650]

And a clean out isn't really needed, if the Tee needs cleaned so does the pipe. Removing the pipe is necessary to clean the whole system anyway.

Although adding a Cleanout door to gain access to the Tee cap is a great idea, just not a must have.

 

[bholler]

I agree that a clean out is not necessary but I put them in whenever possible. It allows for inspection of the flue with out unhooking the pipe and makes it next to impossible to get enough buildup to close of the flue at the bottom.

 

[1234567890]

Thank you guys for all you help. It is good I have a while to figure all this out lol.