Drolet deco alto air ontake

[kevin588127]

Just got my drolet deco alto. The original plan was to install as pictured. I would use a piece of tin work attached to the back of the stove that would act as ducting between the factory 5" intake and the 3" pipe that is installed from my old stove. House is on a slab and the PVC runs underground, about 30' and pops up in front of the house.



As the stove sits now, my flue pipe is about 1-1.5" from lining up with the existing flue. That difference could likely be made up in the 6' of pipe to the ceiling and not really be noticeable.

I could potentially move the stove back that 1-1.5" but it would cover the inlet pipe slightly. The under side of the stove has a 1" gap as only the perimeter touches the floor. My question and concern is over how important it is for the fresh air pipe to actually be ducted to the stove.


My third option is to cut concrete and move the pipe back a few inches. Not a great option as I was planning on tiling tomorrow evening.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[begreen]

3" is undersized for a 30' run. The airflow may be insufficient. The stub is too close to the stove for a simple elbow solution. You could try it by attaching an aluminum project box on the stove that has a cutout on one end for the 3" pipe and another for the 5" hole.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/hammond-manufacturing/1411XU/284819

 

[kevin588127]

Yea, no changing the 3" though 🤣. The old stove performed fine and it was an 8" flue. Just had a piece of galvanized elbow that was supposed to be connected to the stove inlet. Looked impossible to actually do it and whomever installed it, thought so too. I've found a transition duct that will work perfect for my original intended install. However, moving the stove back will put part of the duct under the stove. I guess the stove can technically be installed without it but I'd prefer to pull as much fresh air from outside as possible.

 

[kevin588127]

3" is undersized for a 30' run. The airflow may be insufficient. The stub is too close to the stove for a simple elbow solution. You could try it by attaching an aluminum project box on the stove that has a cutout on one end for the 3" pipe and another for the 5" hole.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/hammond-manufacturing/1411XU/284819

Thanks for the link on that project box. I was originally thinking something like this but that project box might be a cleaner look.

 

[kevin588127]

Just figured I'd update. In order to line the flue up, the stove had to cover about 1" of the pipe. I cut the pipe flush with the new tile. I then notched the back of the stove base and used a liberal amount of duct seal placed around the stove side of the pipe. This creates a small pocket under the stove base. I then made up my piece of duct that will get secured to the stove. I'm hoping this forces the stove to draw from the pipe and that it will be enough. Tile is done and stove is set. Just waiting for the chimney guy to come complete the install next Monday.

 

[begreen]

That's far from idea, the pipe was undersized to start with.

 

[kevin588127]

That's far from idea, the pipe was undersized to start with.

Yep, but it's what I have to work with. Cutting 30' of concrete and going through a frost footing wasn't happening. I'll update once I know how it works.

 

[kevin588127]

2 weeks in and loving this stove so far. As of now, this stove starts easier and burns longer than the old dinosaur that it replaced. I can load it up at 10:30 pm, cut the air control down to 25 percent and it runs all night. My wife leaves at 7-7:30 am and stove is still hot but fire is reduced to a bed of coals. The OAT seems to be supplying enough air but I still haven't sealed the shroud as much as I'd like to. Placing my hand over the external intake, it is drawing pretty decent.