Recently I have been having lower stove top temperatures along with lack of rolling flames. With the primary on full it is struggling to get a decent flame going. With the fan off it gets to 450 (top surface temp near the front), then closing the primary, the secondary burn then kicks in but subsides. All this is indicative of poor draft but I am also having problems starting the fire without the door cracked open, which indicates a primary air issue. I have ruled out fuel moisture by replicating the problem with dry oak pallet wood. Taking out the bricks, I noticed three holes in the front, two of which were blocked. Is this the sole inlet for the primary air? I think they got blocked by my tendency to rake coals/ash forward in the am. While it is cold now, I am going to take a look at the flue connection. Any thoughts? This stove was working great, although not really getting above 600.
Drolet Escape 1800 air problem
- Thread starter JohnWW
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The lower holes are the boost air ports. The primary air enters as the airwash, across the glass from the top. There is also the secondary air. Are you loading mostly E/W in the stove? If so, try getting some air under the wood by first putting down some 12-14" long, 1" diameter sleepers for the E/W load to sit on. If you are loading N/S then this does not apply.
Another possible issue is that the chimney cap screen is getting plugged. That should be checked.
Another possible issue is that the chimney cap screen is getting plugged. That should be checked.
Thank you Mike and Begreen. That would explain why there are no threads about primary blockage. I have no screen on the chimney cap but I did just hop up there and it looks fine. Edit - I did put down some 2x4 pallet piece sleepers last and pallet slats on top at diagonal angles with minimal wood surface contact and that didn't work either.
Check the baffle to make sure there isn't something blocking near the flue exit.
There was no blockage. All tubes and baffle were positioned correctly, but one is not locking into place, ie loose. I remade the flue connection while I was in there. I will reassemble and light up again. What would we expect from a significantly blocked boost air hole?
That is mostly for startup, to direct air at the bottom of the fire and coal bed. The stove should still run ok with it blocked, but I am basing that on stoves I have run and not yours. Let us know if that makes a significant change.
Boost holes unblocked, flue connection remade and all tubes locked nicely into place. Removed some insulation that had fallen down presumably during installation from exterior sides. Drafting and burning fine now. Thanks!
What three holes are you talking about? I have an Escape 1500 and I can't find any holes. I have a cold stove now and removed the front bottom bricks, No holes there. JohnWW can you let me know where yours are? Pic would be great.
I have had problems getting heat out of this stove all year. I actually am in conversation with Drolet, and will be answering questions from them tonight.
I have had problems getting heat out of this stove all year. I actually am in conversation with Drolet, and will be answering questions from them tonight.
The boost holes are in the front center of the firebox, and face to the rear of the stove, hard to get a good pic when running
Thank you SailrMike.
Never would have found them. I could not feel anything when I searched. Hard to get head inside firebox to look. They are on the stove side of the mound. I have seen the feeder hole under the stove, but thought that was just to prevent pressure buildup inside the mound. I cleaned them out and I'm all set to start a fire in the morning. Hope this helps me. Thanks again.
The feeder hole is only open when the primary air control is fully closed.(As in the picture) When the primary air is open that hole is covered. It is the tiny hole in the picture. The big hole allows air to enter the channel that feeds the air above the glass. I'm thinking that the air wash system need a certain amount of air to keep the glass clean even with the primary air totally shut.
Never would have found them. I could not feel anything when I searched. Hard to get head inside firebox to look. They are on the stove side of the mound. I have seen the feeder hole under the stove, but thought that was just to prevent pressure buildup inside the mound. I cleaned them out and I'm all set to start a fire in the morning. Hope this helps me. Thanks again.
The feeder hole is only open when the primary air control is fully closed.(As in the picture) When the primary air is open that hole is covered. It is the tiny hole in the picture. The big hole allows air to enter the channel that feeds the air above the glass. I'm thinking that the air wash system need a certain amount of air to keep the glass clean even with the primary air totally shut.
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You're welcome, thanks for posting these great pics for others to see as well. I had no idea what that pin hole/feeder hole was before, makes sense how you describe it. It's interesting to me that the feeder is blocked at every damper setting other than low.
Not that was obvious. I wrapped aluminium tape around the adapter joints and put a bead of ht sealant around the connection top. I plan to redo the blockoff plate and put an angle in to bring it forward after burning season so I will do a more thorough inspection then. Pro tip - don't leave your phone on top of the unit, reassemble the panel and light the stove.
Strangely it did survive. Speaker phone bit crackly. Good news is it is a work phone and I am due for an upgrade. Still, not my finest hour and certainly not my finest language at the time.
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I had 3 to 4 inch shooting flames generated from the air coming out of these holes this morning. Shot straight toward the back of the firebox. Did not get a picture but they looked cool.
I do notice a difference in the firebox flames with these holes open. Need more tests to figure out what is actually going on.
Sure would be nice if the Installation and Operation Manual had information about operating the stove. The manuals I have seen are 95% safety and compliance items; 4.9% about the stove; and virtually nothing about how to operate the stove. There is absolutely nothing about these three holes in the manual.
I do notice a difference in the firebox flames with these holes open. Need more tests to figure out what is actually going on.
Sure would be nice if the Installation and Operation Manual had information about operating the stove. The manuals I have seen are 95% safety and compliance items; 4.9% about the stove; and virtually nothing about how to operate the stove. There is absolutely nothing about these three holes in the manual.
Agreed, send the suggestion on to SBI and Osburn. Their documentation is better than some, but there can still be some improvement.
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