Drolet Legend with SBI telescopic single wall pipe (SP00370) and shield (SP00390)

[chris87654]

Just about done with this installation. The telescopic pipe looks like this in ads:
http://www.ruralking.com/6-in-black-pipe-kit.html
I don't need the stove adaptor for length (is only 61"), and the bottom telescopic piece fits as snug in the stove vent as does the crimped end of adaptor, so do I need to use the adaptor? (it looks cleaner without it).

I'm not sure about shielding installation (SBI includes no directions). The side of box shows both pieces installed with the welded-on spacers up. The top section has folded-over sides to hold the bottom section as it slides. Seems the bottom section has to be installed with the spacers at the bottom - otherwise there will be no way to attach it to the stove vent rim; and the bottom section would have to be installed first, with the top one forced/"snapped on" to make the connection. The inspector approved less clearance (13") with the shield, so I want to make sure I do it right.

Couple more questions:
1) do the flue pipes need sealer anywhere, or does creosote seal them in time?
2) to clean this, do I need to remove the flue pipe? I thought with a straight flue/chimney, I'd be able to push a brush all the way through, but there's a plate at the top and it seems stuff will accumulate here (I was reading a post about baffles in a Drolet Pyropak rotting out from too hot fire, rain water, bad wood???)
3) I pulled the stickers off the glass, and dried glue/paper stuck - can I just scrape this with a sharp razor? (not sure if there's some coating that might get damaged)

Has been an enjoyable project, though was glad to finish the close-to-the-sheathing work in the attic without sticking nails in my head.

 

[webby3650]

You do not need the adaptor, no sealant is required or recommended. There is no need to pull the pipe if the flue collar is accessible from inside the stove. I think that has a welded in baffle, so you might need to pull the pipe after cleaning just to clean out the flue collar.

 

[jeff_t]

Here's the manual, though it doesn't tell you much. There is a number in there for tech support.
(broken link removed to http://www.drolet.ca/upload/images/accessoires/manuels/drolet/45589A_30-08-2013.pdf)

If you can't slide it up easily, it will be a PITA when cleaning. Drolet uses a welded in baffle, I think? If you brush from the top down, you still have to clean out the junk somehow. Could you return the single wall and get double wall connector? It will last longer, as the inner pipe is made from stainless steel, you won't have to mess with shielding, and there is no question on clearances. It doesn't cost that much more. Just has to be from the same manufacturer as the class A.

You shouldn't have to seal the joints. Maybe if you have a draft issue, or creosote buildup from cold air leaking in, but I'm pretty sure most folks don't.

I scrape my Blaze King glass all the time with a paint scraper/single edge razor blade. Not sure if SBI uses any special coating, but I doubt it. I'd wet the stickers down for a minute before I tried to scrape them off.

 

[begreen]

The owner of the Pyropak was not sure if his stove had a stainless baffle or just plain steel. If it was just steel that would explain its demise.

 

[chris87654]

Thanks for info.

I used the single-wall pipe because I wanted to radiate more heat in the room - after I got the pipe, I read double-wall vent is better to reduce creosote buildup - if there's a problem, I'll get double-wall. Cleaning will be easy from roof with 4.5' chimney, but now concerned about stuff falling inside the stove. The vent pipe slides enough now (could raise it a bit and put plastic bag underneath), but it might stick after usage. Stainless steel baffles are welded, but when looking into flue collar (before vent hooked up), I could see into the firebox by opening the damper - so maybe I can jamb a shop vac nozzle in the open damper when I clean it. That's later...

For now, the inspector came this morning. No problem with 13" clearance of shielded SWP, or the blocked air return behind it, but he questioned the attic insulation shield - he said he's never seen one before.. that all chimney's have had a chase installed to the sheathing. I was surprised because every youtube video I saw, as well as all installation diagrams, have shown the galvanized AIS - chase was built only if not enough clearance for the AIS. The Selkirk AIS is UL approved (says on box), but he told me to find which UL spec applied (looks like 103), and he'd talk with the lead inspector (who he'd already called from here) and the local fire marshal to see if the AIS is okay. In as much time as this takes, I could build a chase, but he said he may learn something and I really don't want to do more attic work (not really a big deal - esp knowing all else is okay). It looked like UL103 requires an insulation shield to allow 10" of insulation, above top of joists - the 'barrel' of the AIS is 10" above joists and the collar fits tight against the chimney pipe to stop insulation from falling between chimney and outer barrel.

Attached is a (poor) photo showing the attic work/AIS. The only question I still had was Selkirk instructions say the sheathing opening should be framed - youtube videos only showed roof framing when a "box" type ceiling support was attached to it. Also photo of finished stove - very basic, but it'll work (oh - glue residue on glass was water soluble).

Is roof sheathing needed? And does anyone know where I can get info for the inspector about a steel AIS being okay? (looked like UL103 text costs ~$500).

 

[begreen]

Looks pretty standard to me. Did you show him the Selkirk installation documentation? When you say sheathing, what does this refer to?

 

[chris87654]

"When you say sheathing, what does this refer to?"

It refers to my poor proofreading - of course one needs roof sheathing... I meant is framing under the roof sheathing/around the chimney opening needed? It shows that in the Selkirk manual even with a ceiling joist supported chimney - the inspector didn't say anything about it, but it would always be framed with a chimney chase.

And I guess you mean the attic insulation shield looks pretty standard.... it looks just like what I've seen on youtube and in installation manual. Inspector got all documentation when I applied for permit, but I don't think they read it because they asked for clearance specs after I (later) sent the layout. Today he asked if I had the stove manual, and I said I gave it to them (I have one downloaded). I'm surprised they haven't seen an AIS before - I don't like to push things, but they should learn about this.

Inspector also asked if I fired it up yet.. I said no, I was waiting for the inspection. He said it looked good (aside from AIS which I know is good) so I've got a fire in it now. Got thermometer on vent pipe (18" from stove top) and trying to keep it around 350 - inet said to make 3 medium fires to cure the paint. I started with the crate wood (burned well) and just put in a couple pieces of the big tree I cut down (is oak) - it cooled down, around 320 now, but the wood is burning good (no steam). 15'x20' room's blocked off (to contain smoke), with patio door open ~6", 15F outside, and it's about 78F in here. Wow - first high efficiency fire place I've ever had - is a good feeling. THANK YOU ALL FOR THE HELP. I can tell I need to learn about building a fire - is much different than constantly throwing wood in an open fireplace.

 

[begreen]

Chimneys passing through attics rarely get chased unless the attic is an active storage or usable area. Your installation looks pretty normal from what I can see with the small picture. An attic insulation shield is the correct and common treatment. There's no reason that I can think of for the insulation shield to be stainless in an attic.

 

[chris87654]

Makes sense that an active area would get chased since there's a higher probability of the chimney getting bumped. The city here, and likely many, adopted IRC 2009 standards, so that's what's needed to say it's okay not to have a chase. I figure Selkirk would conform to IRC 2009, even though they only say they pass UL 103 (or UL 103HT, whichever applies). I'll contact Selkirk and see what they say. I looked, but couldn't find anything in IRC 2009 documentation. I did learn the AIS provides a firestop, which the inspector didn't bring up (not sure if the ceiling support ring, etc qualifies as a firestop). Attached is a better photo of the attic passthrough.