dull or sharp maul?

[beermann]

I just bought a 8lb splitting maul and a wedge to split wood with. I've never really cut wood before but have been having good luck with the factory thick but dull mull.

Some of the larger and thicker rounds that are about 3-4feet long and equally as wide require me to beat the living $h-( out of it for 8-10 hefty (and I mean all out hard as I can) wacks with the maul before it finally cracks the round. I've used the wedge to bash into these pieces with some success.

Will I have an easier time with a sharper splitting maul or should I keep it dull and wack at it like the pointed sludge hammer it is.

Thanks guys.

 

[jatoxico]

Logic says sharp is better. For a maul the edge should be keen with a steep taper so it doesn't dull too quickly. I like to keep the cheeks smooth and clean too so it doesn't stick in the wood.

 

[TedyOH]

I think your best bet is to cut those 4 footers in half.

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[beermann]

I think your best bet is to cut those 4 footers in half.

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I get my wood for free from a tree cutter. And it's my first year so I lack the chainsaw at the moment. Been eyeing a $100 electric chainsaw. Since I won't be felling and tree's I figure it'll do what I need. As a result I've been spliting them then cutting the splits down to size with a mitre saw for the stove.

I do enjoy the satisfaction of cracking a huge round after some effort....but damn.

 

[beermann]

Logic says sharp is better. For a maul the edge should be keen with a steep taper so it doesn't dull too quickly. I like to keep the cheeks smooth and clean too so it doesn't stick in the wood.

I'll sharpen the tip and then post a picture tomorrow for suggestions.

 

[TedyOH]

Yeah I hear ya....but 4 foot long rounds.....i wouldn't even have attempted that 20 years ago when i was in my 20's...id seriously consider a gas powered saw as well.

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I have a MS170 Stihl I have ABUSED for the past 3 years.....$180 and you will save yourself weeks of work.

 

[beermann]

Yeah I hear ya....but 4 foot long rounds.....i wouldn't even have attempted that 20 years ago when i was in my 20's...id seriously consider a gas powered saw as well.

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I have a MS170 Stihl I have ABUSED for the past 3 years.....$180 and you will save yourself weeks of work.

I'll look for some used and new cheap gas saws. Since money is tight I may have to stick with heavy manual labor this year and chop the bits with my mitre saw....which was gifted to me last year.

 

[jatoxico]

I have both gas and electric chain saws. You can do a fair amount of work with an electric even if it is a bit slower. Best thing thing is they're cheap and easy to maintain. For instance;

https://www.vminnovations.com/Produ...r-12-Amp-Electric-Chain-Saw-Refurbished-.html

 

[TedyOH]

I have an electric (battery) Greenworks...it does have it's place for sure.

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[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I just bought a 8lb splitting maul and a wedge to split wood with. I've never really cut wood before but have been having good luck with the factory thick but dull mull.

Some of the larger and thicker rounds that are about 3-4feet long and equally as wide require me to beat the living $h-( out of it for 8-10 hefty (and I mean all out hard as I can) wacks with the maul before it finally cracks the round. I've used the wedge to bash into these pieces with some success.

Will I have an easier time with a sharper splitting maul or should I keep it dull and wack at it like the pointed sludge hammer it is.

Thanks guys.

I like sharp. I also agree that cutting them shorter will help. Every man that burns wood needs a chainsaw, especially a beerman! I'd start electric and expand from there, much easier to maintain and learn with. Also cheaper.

 

[Tar12]

If you continue to accept whatever the tree service drops off you are in for a world of hurts...lol As you have discovered this means anything and everything. Don't be afraid to tell them you can't handle the real big stuff. Start saving your pennies as you are going to need at least a 50cc class saw with a 20 in bar...you won't get far trying to noodle those big pieces with a severely under powered electric saw...they simply won't cut it...pun intended...they are fine for the small stuff but they can't perform miracles.Nothing trumps H.P....and it will save you a lot of back breaking swinging! ....as you have also discovered your box store maul leaves a lot to be desired in splitting ability...there are far superior mauls out there...like the Fiskars ISO core maul...lifetime guarantee and no handles to replace...many here will vouch for them...myself included as I have a pair of them and a pile of rusty box store mauls...IMO... the Fiskar is the best value on the market bar none.In the following pic the Fiskars maul is on the right and a Biber classic on the left..The Biber is a fine maul in its own right but the Fiskars really tames the felt vibration and shock to your body...this will be real important to you splitting by hand!

 

[beermann]

If you continue to accept whatever the tree service drops off you are in for a world of hurts...lol As you have discovered this means anything and everything. Don't be afraid to tell them you can't handle the real big stuff. Start saving your pennies as you are going to need at least a 50cc class saw with a 20 in bar...you want get far trying to noodle those big pieces with a severely under powered electric saw...they simply won't cut it...pun intended...they are fine for the small stuff but they can't perform miracles.Nothing trumps H.P....and it will save you a lot of back breaking swinging! ....as you have also discovered your box store maul leaves a lot to be desired in splitting ability...there are far superior mauls out there...like the Fiskars ISO core maul...lifetime guarantee and no handles to replace...many here will vouch for them...myself included as I have a pair of them and a pile of rusty box store mauls...IMO... the Fiskar is the best value on the market bar none.In the following pic the Fiskars maul is on the right and a Biber classic on the left..The Biber is a fine maul in its own right but the Fiskars really tames the felt vibration and shock to your body...this will be real important to you splitting by hand! View attachment 196906

Yes I am learning quickly. I've asked to have the rounds made smaller as I don't like lugging and chopping 70-100+ pound rounds for an hour. He was kind enough to agree. I am fortunate to be a large and powerful enough person to split these hug rounds in under 10 swings. If I really feed into the swing and get my feet off the ground while moving into a slight squat position during the overhead swing some of the splits seemed to "explode" sending the splits 3-4 feet to the left and right with smaller "shrapnal" sized pieces flying a solid 10 feet. I of course get covered in sweat. And it's one hell of a workout to get the initial crack in the round. I admit I love the exercise and did about 6 like this with good 5 minute breaks between rounds before getting too tired and using the wedge.

The axe on the left looks similar to mine and I can see how my hands would appreciate the reduction in vibrations from a quality maul/axe. I will sharpen mine a bit tomorrow and see how it goes. Pic to come in the afternoon.

 

[beermann]

Yes I am learning quickly. I've asked to have the rounds made smaller as I don't like lugging and chopping 70-100+ pound rounds for an hour. He was kind enough to agree. I am fortunate to be a large and powerful enough person to split these hug rounds in under 10 swings. If I really feed into the swing and get my feet off the ground while moving into a slight squat position during the overhead swing some of the splits seemed to "explode" sending the splits 3-4 feet to the left and right with smaller "shrapnal" sized pieces flying a solid 10 feet. I of course get covered in sweat. And it's one hell of a workout to get the initial crack in the round. I admit I love the exercise and did about 6 like this with good 5 minute breaks between rounds before getting too tired and using the wedge.

The axe on the left looks similar to mine and I can see how my hands would appreciate the reduction in vibrations from a quality maul/axe. I will sharpen mine a bit tomorrow and see how it goes. Pic to come in the afternoon.

My wife suggested I enter a competition after watching me split some of those rounds of wood like an absolute boss.

 

[Tar12]

Yes I am learning quickly. I've asked to have the rounds made smaller as I don't like lugging and chopping 70-100+ pound rounds for an hour. He was kind enough to agree. I am fortunate to be a large and powerful enough person to split these hug rounds in under 10 swings. If I really feed into the swing and get my feet off the ground while moving into a slight squat position during the overhead swing some of the splits seemed to "explode" sending the splits 3-4 feet to the left and right with smaller "shrapnal" sized pieces flying a solid 10 feet. I of course get covered in sweat. And it's one hell of a workout to get the initial crack in the round. I admit I love the exercise and did about 6 like this with good 5 minute breaks between rounds before getting too tired and using the wedge.

The axe on the left looks similar to mine and I can see how my hands would appreciate the reduction in vibrations from a quality maul/axe. I will sharpen mine a bit tomorrow and see how it goes. Pic to come in the afternoon.

I used to like those work outs..lol know I am 53 and paying the price... I find myself working a lot smarter ...not harder to save my body from anymore damage.

 

[CTYank]

For years I thought all mauls were in fact bludgeons, with rounded edges and chubby cheeks, having seen nothing else. Then I got a Muller (Austrian) 3 kg maul. Has a sharp edge, with flat cheeks. Enormous difference- much more effective. Then I got a Wetterlings, also a splitting machine. Then a 6 lb Council Tools maul, for ~$25, way less than the others. Just needed a touch of grinding near the edge to sharpen it and flatten the faces.

So yeah, there's a huge difference in quality of mauls, and in their prices.

I've found, as have some others, that they are EDGE tools, and need to have good edges, and the edges preserved. I split only up on a block, so that edge NEVER gets driven into dirt & rocks.

Good idea to have a good-noodling chainsaw handy too, for cutting through forks & knots, the stuff that resists splitting.

 

[beermann]

I used to like those work outs..lol know I am 53 and paying the price... I find myself working a lot smarter ...not harder to save my body from anymore damage.

I'll admit that even at 32 I'm noticing a don't bounce back the way I did 10yrs ago. And the aches are just starting to creep in from time to time. Not muscle soreness but that kind of bone/joint aching we all start to get from years of abusing the body. Definitly going to have to save pennies to work smarter next year.

 

[beermann]

For years I thought all mauls were in fact bludgeons, with rounded edges and chubby cheeks, having seen nothing else. Then I got a Muller (Austrian) 3 kg maul. Has a sharp edge, with flat cheeks. Enormous difference- much more effective. Then I got a Wetterlings, also a splitting machine. Then a 6 lb Council Tools maul, for ~$25, way less than the others. Just needed a touch of grinding near the edge to sharpen it and flatten the faces.

So yeah, there's a huge difference in quality of mauls, and in their prices.

I've found, as have some others, that they are EDGE tools, and need to have good edges, and the edges preserved. I split only up on a block, so that edge NEVER gets driven into dirt & rocks.

Good idea to have a good-noodling chainsaw handy too, for cutting through forks & knots, the stuff that resists splitting.

I am using one of the rounds as a block and ill try building something a little taller with scrap 6x6 I have laying around from the past owner a few years back.

I had a really gnarly piece today, didn't know I could mess up "brutus" (my mauls new name) by beating the sh;t out of the knots.

Thanks for the input

 

[volunbeer]

The fiskars splitting maul is absolutely worth the money. I got it just prior to December and I have been halving large fir rounds with it before loading it in the gator. That thing is a beast!

 

[beermann]

This is my maul head, it's a typical maul/sledge hammer head. Fibreglass handle so I've started using gloves today because of vibrations. I am going to make the wedge much sharper but keep the maul just a little sharper. I like how it does not get stuck in wood while splitting.

 

[heavy hammer]

If possible get a good maul, I have the bash 8 lb maul and it goes through anything. Plus you can use it as a sledge hammer for driving wedges. I have looked at the fiskers maul and it looks pretty tough to. If you like hand splitting a big sledge will come in handy as well. I have two 20 lb sledges for the real big stuff there is nothing you can't split with those, you just have to decide if you want to swing that big of a hammer to split wood. But to answer your question I keep the maul with the factory edge, wedges I just clean up as needed. You want to split the wood not cut it.

 

[rowerwet]

I know you said money was tight, you might look into renting a gas splitter just to make a good pile of wood for the winter.
I know it was very close for the first few years we burned wood, mostly because of how long hand splitting took.
I finally got a gas splitter and that allowed me to get a year or two ahead.

I have the iso core maul, and the X27, personally I think they do the same thing, only the X27 is much easier on me.
The only advantage the maul has is that it can drive wedges

 

[beermann]

Yeah I hear ya....but 4 foot long rounds.....i wouldn't even have attempted that 20 years ago when i was in my 20's...id seriously consider a gas powered saw as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I have a MS170 Stihl I have ABUSED for the past 3 years.....$180 and you will save yourself weeks of work.

I went ahead and spent $160 on a referbished chainsaw + the jerry-can, chain and bar oil and gas additives for a total around $200. I'll be working hard to have a generouse amount of wood this winter so I can justify the purchase. I did blow my budget for this week so we are having a lot of home cooked meals

 

[beermann]

If you continue to accept whatever the tree service drops off you are in for a world of hurts...lol As you have discovered this means anything and everything. Don't be afraid to tell them you can't handle the real big stuff. Start saving your pennies as you are going to need at least a 50cc class saw with a 20 in bar...you won't get far trying to noodle those big pieces with a severely under powered electric saw...they simply won't cut it...pun intended...they are fine for the small stuff but they can't perform miracles.Nothing trumps H.P....and it will save you a lot of back breaking swinging! ....as you have also discovered your box store maul leaves a lot to be desired in splitting ability...there are far superior mauls out there...like the Fiskars ISO core maul...lifetime guarantee and no handles to replace...many here will vouch for them...myself included as I have a pair of them and a pile of rusty box store mauls...IMO... the Fiskar is the best value on the market bar none.In the following pic the Fiskars maul is on the right and a Biber classic on the left..The Biber is a fine maul in its own right but the Fiskars really tames the felt vibration and shock to your body...this will be real important to you splitting by hand! View attachment 196906

I took your suggestion. And ill get a fiskar in the future when the generic maul has run its toll. Thanks.

Also got the chainsaw

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I went ahead and spent $160 on a referbished chainsaw + the jerry-can, chain and bar oil and gas additives for a total around $200. I'll be working hard to have a generouse amount of wood this winter so I can justify the purchase. I did blow my budget for this week so we are having a lot of home cooked meals

You have taken the next step. Good luck, be very careful for a long while as you are figuring out how it behaves, and concentrate while you are using it. Congratulations.

 

[Tar12]

Good deal! Having a saw if your burning for real is a necessity! You will find more justification as time goes on for upgrading your wood processing equipment...your addiction has just begun...