DuraFlex 316Ti Insulation, picture attached. Look copacetic?
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WRONG Kaowool insulation should be used, how is the flex connected to the ridged??????? I don't see a connector and it looks like its been wrapped with foil tape
humpin iron said:
I appreciate the caps lock, but is kiln paper really necessary? Fiberglass doesn't burn and won't melt until >1500. Rockwool is >2000. Neither of which are temperatures I would even subject to the current 50 year old brick chimney to.
The s/s straight piece is custom made to fit snugly around the flex and is attached with some stainless steel screws where the pipe exits the brick chimney. The tape is 3M flue tape. The DuraFlex litature doesn't mention anything about sealants. I thought the s/s band connections to the t-cleanout were inferior to the snug s/s screw connection I made on the far end at any rate.
I tried wrapping pink insulation around my stove pipe where it entered the crock and it did melt some and turned blackish. I replaced it with rock wool and it doesn't melt and I feel much better.
What the guys are saying is that whether or not you plan on having a chimney fire, and the chances are few if you keep that liner clean, building codes and insurance companies require a liner system to be tested to UL 1777 which is 1800 degrees. A later HT version requires it hanging together up to 2100 degrees. Fact is the pink stuff gets soft at 1200 degrees and is useless crap at 1500.
You don't ever plan on going there but what you don't plan on makes no difference to the building inspector or the insurance company.
And if you ever sell that house and somebody burns it down they will sue your butt off when they find that stuff in the chimney. And win.
You don't ever plan on going there but what you don't plan on makes no difference to the building inspector or the insurance company.
And if you ever sell that house and somebody burns it down they will sue your butt off when they find that stuff in the chimney. And win.
You would be safer with no insulation if you plan on doing that. Might as well strap some fireworks and sticks to the side of it also.
I seriously hope you have not jammed that down your flue already....
Scary scary stuff...
I think I will print this off at work, it will make for a good laugh tomorrow morning.
I seriously hope you have not jammed that down your flue already....
Scary scary stuff...
I think I will print this off at work, it will make for a good laugh tomorrow morning.
Hey ya know where else you can save? At the hardware store there's really strong rope.......much cheaper than that crap they make seat belts out of.
From the Owens-Corning installation instructions for the pink stuff:
"Also, the insulation should always be installed at least three inches away from any metal chimneys, gas water heater flues or other heat-producing devices."
"Check manufacturers' instructions and local codes regarding insulation around metal or masonry chimneys, and flues. Most requirements call for a minimum 50mm (2") space between insulation and the chimney structure or stainless steel insulated flue. Never place insulation in contact with an old-fashioned single layer metal flue."
"Also, the insulation should always be installed at least three inches away from any metal chimneys, gas water heater flues or other heat-producing devices."
"Check manufacturers' instructions and local codes regarding insulation around metal or masonry chimneys, and flues. Most requirements call for a minimum 50mm (2") space between insulation and the chimney structure or stainless steel insulated flue. Never place insulation in contact with an old-fashioned single layer metal flue."
Goodness! You guys are harsh.
Clearly a mistake was made here, but at least OP was wise enough to post and ask the question so that there is a chance of getting the problem fixed before it gets worse... and others may well learn from this thread.
Now, if OP goes forward with the install and the house burns down I'd say turn the dogs loose
Clearly a mistake was made here, but at least OP was wise enough to post and ask the question so that there is a chance of getting the problem fixed before it gets worse... and others may well learn from this thread.
Now, if OP goes forward with the install and the house burns down I'd say turn the dogs loose
Slow 1- re-read his 2nd post, the one where he defends his decision........me thinks he let the dogs out
stainless steel screws arent copesetic either.. they tend to work them selves out with the heating and contraction. Stainless steel rivets are the only approved fastener method..
Konrad said:
Seriously, get the tape off the pipe. It really is mis-named by the manufacturer. Surpising from 3M. To clarify from 3M's website:
3M™ High-Temperature Flue Tape is easily installed around seams in hot air ducts. It stops hot air leaks and may be used on surfaces up to 600 degrees F
(broken link removed)
Konrad, we are not picking on you, these are serious errors. That tape will peel off of there in short order, then you will get dilution of draft, then you will get poor performance which equates to more creosote formation, with that you have the danger of a chimney fire, which that pink insulation you put on there will melt off....etc.
Mtn Stv Guy......you left out the line about, "when everything you did wrong come's back to haunt you, remember to call the dealer and groan about the stove, then go post bad PR on Hearth net"
hopefully we wont go there. Hopefully he has not installed this, and hopefully he will make the necessary changes per UL1777 and keep himself and his family safe and sound. I am most worried about the tape and screws coming out and opening up a big gap in the pipe and diluting draft. That worries me more then the insulation actually, because that is what is going to cause the fire.
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