Duratech Premium vs Excel chimney

[BKVP]

Csia certification is going to become much less common among sweeps. They just broke ties with the national chimney sweep guild and increased dues and cost of classes. The ncsg partnered with certified chimney professionals to offer another much more reasonably priced option.

I knew about that....see you in PA in a week or so....

 

[shgRUSS]

So I use the slip section as you noted for a really great reason. I have a 5 gallon bucket with a hole in the bottom (centered). I place my cleaning rod through the hole and screw on the brush. My wife holds the bucket up against the bottom of the pipe (in raised position) and I push the rod upwards into the chimney. I add 3' sections until I reach the cap. This process means not having to go up on the roof which is exceptionally steep! (When the roofers pulled the old cedar shake shingles a few years ago...they wore golf shoes)!

One note, the person holding the bucket has to wrap a rag around the rods where it enters the bottom of the bucket, lest you get creosote dust all over the stove/hearth. Next year I am going to buy a soot eater flex shaft to make the process easier.

This method prevents all the debris from falling down into the inner workings of the stove!

Yes, that was my intent. When I was researching stoves and got “hooked” on the BK stoves thread (read the last four years of posts), I gained a lot of insight and that was one of many tips and tricks . My roof is not steep but when there is a foot of snow and 1/2” of freezing rain up there I am not too inclined to clean the chimney from the top down.
We are fairly remote hear, I can’t think of anyone that actually would hire a professional sweep to come, mileage alone would be hundreds of $$$

 

[bholler]

Yes, that was my intent. When I was researching stoves and got “hooked” on the BK stoves thread (read the last four years of posts), I gained a lot of insight and that was one of many tips and tricks . My roof is not steep but when there is a foot of snow and 1/2” of freezing rain up there I am not too inclined to clean the chimney from the top down.
We are fairly remote hear, I can’t think of anyone that actually would hire a professional sweep to come, mileage alone would be hundreds of $$$

You might be surprised by the area sweeps cover regularly. We easily cover a 100 mile radius.

 

[BKVP]

You might be surprised by the area sweeps cover regularly. We easily cover a 100 mile radius.

And for some strong Canadia beer bholler might travel much further...just can't cross the border as of yet.

 

[shgRUSS]

You might be surprised by the area sweeps cover regularly. We easily cover a 100 mile radius.

You most likely would at least need to double that up here. But if you want your welcome any time, Elk steak, beer, poutine await

 

[shgRUSS]

I think I will end up going with the Duratech Premium. There are lots of dealers up here between DuraVent and Security (Premium and S2100 are identical). They have better cold weather install accessories (insulated fire stop, insulated attic radiation shield, etc.) that Excel does not have. And arguably, the 2” insulated pipe should be somewhat better for cold weather. I would prefer the Excel for install though (much lighter, thinner = smaller holes in floor and ceiling). But I think it is best to stick with performance for draft first.

 

[CanFireman]

As said above, DuraTech Premium is made using the exact same design as Security's Secure Temp S2100 design. Made at the same plant in Quebec. Tested & certified to Canada's ULC-S629 standard. This testing protocol requires the pipe to withstand 3 - 30 minute chimney fires (as opposed to the 3 - 10 minute tests used in the US).

When it comes to R-Value, things get a bit muddled. Is not just the thickness of the insulation you need to concern yourself with.
How does the pipe fare when it comes to home efficiency? We go to all this trouble to insulate the attic (to keep the heat in the home), then cut a great big hole in the ceiling for a solid-fuel chimney. Unless care is taken to match R-Value to surrounding attic insulation and to seal around the pipe penetration, all your heated air in the home can leak up through the gaps in the opening. Aside from warm air leaking out, you also need to be concerned about moisture (look up "ATTIC RAIN").

Can insulation be installed around the pipe to minimize heat loss? Can supports / thimbles be sealed for vapor-barrier purposes?
This is where you may start seeing some stark differences between different brands of chimney.