Dutchwest India by-pass damper?

[dyerkutn]

I have a Dutchwest India Federal Airtight 224 CCL which I have posted about before but have a new question---the instruction manual, which I believe is original (the stove was here when I bought the house) says it is for models built between July 1988 and June 1992 (which is why I did not put this post in the pre-1988 forum) and it has an EPA approval. The manual instructions for opening and closing the various air intakes includes a "bypass gate". There is no picture and I am confused of what this is. I have what I believe is a flue damper. It is a metal plate that closes horizontally to cut off air supply to the stove pipe. I am sure that when this is closed and my two intake air valves (over and under) are closed it is airtight and the catalytic converter maintains a temp of 800-1000 degrees pretty regularly.

So I am puzzled about this bypass gate--am I missing something that might help it burn more efficiently?

 

[Havendalefarm]

The by pass is the little square knob on the side, to the left and above the door. The fall off handle slips on and you flip it when you load the stove.It directs the smoke out through the cat. Rectangle plate you can see near the flue if you look in the stove. A flue damper, if its there, will be in the oval that connects to the pipe, possibly with a spring handle. If your cat temp is staying at 800-1000 with the top (small) round air intake closed it must be pulling air in someplace else. These can leak pretty good around the steel piece that your cat probe sets in, I think they refer to it as the cooktop. Makes it easy to overfire the cat. Takes a small gasket rope, not sure of exact size.

 

[dyerkutn]

. If your cat temp is staying at 800-1000 with the top (small) round air intake closed it must be pulling air in someplace else. These can leak pretty good around the steel piece that your cat probe sets in, I think they refer to it as the cooktop. Makes it easy to overfire the cat. Takes a small gasket rope, not sure of exact size.

OK, it is definitely a by-pass and not a damper. But I am confused by your post--I don't have a top round air intake---just one in the ash door and one on the left door. According to the cat thermometer that sits in the cooktop, 500 -1400 degrees is normal and according to the manual the cat temp should be between 1000 and 1400 (though I have never been able to get it that high) which makes the stove temp 350-600 degrees. I have done the dollar bill test on all of the doors and they are tight. I never thought to check the seam between the cookplate and the top of the stove. How would i do that?

 

[dyerkutn]

If your cat temp is staying at 800-1000

One more question. Are you saying it is too hot or too cool?

 

[raybonz]

I ran one of these stove for decades.. This manual explains things pretty good.. Lots of info posted in the forum but post questions and we answer them Welcome to the forum..

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Mp_py_BAO8leLn_YX6npYpw&bvm=bv.43828540,d.dmg

Ray

 

[dyerkutn]

I ran one of these stove for decades.. This manual explains things pretty good.. Lots of info posted in the forum but post questions and we answer them Welcome to the forum..

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CE0QFjAD&url=http://www.fergusonfireplace.com/Dutchwest_Pre_90.pdf&ei=zNFIUfjmDanK0wGHtoGABA&usg=AFQjCNFCKuJMp_py_BAO8leLn_YX6npYpw&bvm=bv.43828540,d.dmg

Ray

Thanks Ray. I actually have this manual--it is the one I mentioned in my original post and I have been following it for the 12 years I have been using the stove. It also turns out on closer inspection that this is a pre-1988 stove. I am trying to get the finer points of running it in order to decide whether or not to get a new one, as the moveable grate has disintegrated. I have always thought it worked really well but as I read about the long burn times that others have, I question whether I am getting the max out of it. I really have nothing to compare it to since I never had another one and don't know anyone else who uses one here in the suburban wilderness. So what seems routine to me about running it, other people people might consider inefficient or just plain inconvenient. The next thread I was planning to start after learning about the bypass damper is to get some advice. I know there are tons of advice threads but each person's situation is so unique that it is hard to compare and the salesmen are not much help. I have been to 5 shops and have looked at a number of stoves. I did have a help thread in January but my thoughts and questions have taken totally new turn since then.

 

[raybonz]

Thanks Ray. I actually have this manual--it is the one I mentioned in my original post and I have been following it for the 12 years I have been using the stove. It also turns out on closer inspection that this is a pre-1988 stove. I am trying to get the finer points of running it in order to decide whether or not to get a new one, as the moveable grate has disintegrated. I have always thought it worked really well but as I read about the long burn times that others have, I question whether I am getting the max out of it. I really have nothing to compare it to since I never had another one and don't know anyone else who uses one here in the suburban wilderness. So what seems routine to me about running it, other people people might consider inefficient or just plain inconvenient. The next thread I was planning to start after learning about the bypass damper is to get some advice. I know there are tons of advice threads but each person's situation is so unique that it is hard to compare and the salesmen are not much help. I have been to 5 shops and have looked at a number of stoves. I did have a help thread in January but my thoughts and questions have taken totally new turn since then.

I ended up replacing it and find my new stove much easier to learn and much longer burn times.. My CDW tended to create creosote and many parts are hard to find if available at all.. I decided on the Alderlea T5 and have been pleased.. Very low maintenance with only one gasket that seals the door to the stove and one that seals the glass to the door and no furnace cement as this has a welded steel firebox with cast iron skin.. As for your bypass damper this is located on the left side, up top and towards the back.. The side door damper is the secondary air, the damper on the ash pan is primary or underfire air and the small damper on the left side, top and near center is the cat air.. The T5 has one air adjustment lever which controls primary and secondary air at the same time.. Very easy!

Ray

 

[Havendalefarm]

I am not sure of the year of ours but it has a little round air intake above the lfet side door that feeds air to the cat. We modified our sfove by putting a steel plate over the grates, ashpan wasn't too great anyway, and fitting a 3" piece of angle iron just inide the end door to keep the ashes from spilling out. Made the firebox a little smaller but increased the burn times. I do know that when burning wood that air intake on the ashpan door should always remain closed. Our stove will snuff the fire out if you close all the round air intakes. That cat temp is fine just has to be getting air from somewhere. Might just be me but I would not want to see 1400 on the cat probe all to often. I would feel thats asking alot out of that old cast iron. Not saying it hasn't happened more than once on our stove though. We started our dutchwest in October and it hasn't been out yet.If I load it at 9pm there are still plenty of coals to load it again at 6 am.

 

[dyerkutn]

I am not sure of the year of ours but it has a little round air intake above the lfet side door that feeds air to the cat. We modified our sfove by putting a steel plate over the grates, ashpan wasn't too great anyway, and fitting a 3" piece of angle iron just inide the end door to keep the ashes from spilling out. Made the firebox a little smaller but increased the burn times. I do know that when burning wood that air intake on the ashpan door should always remain closed. Our stove will snuff the fire out if you close all the round air intakes. That cat temp is fine just has to be getting air from somewhere. Might just be me but I would not want to see 1400 on the cat probe all to often. I would feel thats asking alot out of that old cast iron. Not saying it hasn't happened more than once on our stove though. We started our dutchwest in October and it hasn't been out yet.If I load it at 9pm there are still plenty of coals to load it again at 6 am.

Thanks for responding. My cat rarely goes over 1000 and it definitely does not have that extra little damper, only the bypass. Are you sure you have the little 1.7 cu. ft. 224 and not a larger one. Even under best of cirumstances I can only fit 4 good sized logs-- doesn't seem like that would be enough to leave even coals after 9 hours. And how often do you fill it--I feel like I am feeding it a new log or two every couple of hours. Great idea about containing the ashes--I have constant ashes all over.

 

[Havendalefarm]

I am pretty sure we have the medium sized one. Usually we only put two pieces in at a time. Maybe 6" splits. Have learned the hard way that stuffing it full just cracks the baffle under the cat. With these two pieces put in on top of a bed of coals the air in door open about an eighth of an inch and the cat air open one turn we have good coals every morning. We put wood in more if someone is around and checking the stove or running it hotter during the day. Before we put the plate in the bottom it wouldn't hold the coals like it does now though.

 

[dyerkutn]

[quote="raybonz, post: 1411164, member: 4147". I decided on the Alderlea T5 and have been pleased.. The T5 has one air adjustment lever which controls primary and secondary air at the same time.. Very easy!

Ray[/quote]

I don't have Pacific Energy dealers very near me. Without a bypass valve how come all the heat does not go up the stove pipe nor draft come down? And I did not think steel was good for heat-only cast iron. Are you concerned that the air control mechanism (is it a lever) or the pipes for the seondary burn will have problems?

 

[dyerkutn]

[quote="Havendalefarm, post: 1411216, member: 27217" Before we put the plate in the bottom it wouldn't hold the coals like it does now though.[/quote]


So you just scoop the ashes out?

 

[raybonz]

[quote="raybonz, post: 1411164, member: 4147". I decided on the Alderlea T5 and have been pleased.. The T5 has one air adjustment lever which controls primary and secondary air at the same time.. Very easy!

Ray

I don't have Pacific Energy dealers very near me. Without a bypass valve how come all the heat does not go up the stove pipe nor draft come down? And I did not think steel was good for heat-only cast iron. Are you concerned that the air control mechanism (is it a lever) or the pipes for the seondary burn will have problems?[/quote]
No concerns this is a secondary burn that recirculates the gasses through a baffle which burns the smoke when it reaches ~1000F.. Wind has little affect on the draft and I have no idea why.. There isn't much to go wrong with this stove..

Ray

 

[Havendalefarm]

Yes, about once a week. Havent even opened the ashpan door in two years. Have ran it like this since 2006 when we bought it used,lightly as an insert, for $350. We took the insert shields off , put the legs on and have run it as our primary heat source, we do have another stove we run when it is below freezing temps steady, in our old remodeled farmhouse in Upstate NY.

 

[raybonz]

[quote="raybonz, post: 1411164, member: 4147". I decided on the Alderlea T5 and have been pleased.. The T5 has one air adjustment lever which controls primary and secondary air at the same time.. Very easy!

Ray

I don't have Pacific Energy dealers very near me. Without a bypass valve how come all the heat does not go up the stove pipe nor draft come down? And I did not think steel was good for heat-only cast iron. Are you concerned that the air control mechanism (is it a lever) or the pipes for the seondary burn will have problems?[/quote]
Steel handles heat no problem loads of stoves are made with steel..