Easyfire 5001 burn pot issue

[e-zlight]

Ok, Just installed a new to me easyfire 5001, all new piping, and fresh clean. My burn pot is filling up, and overflowing the fire into teh burn area. I brought the diagram for the exhaust to a stove place, and they ordered me exactly what the manu showed for proper venting.

Any ideas on how to correct this? It happened yesterday but we had it on low, and trim down. So it was basically over feeding. Cleaned it all up, and then set it to medium every since. Still the same results.

There is no air adjustment on this stove.

 

[DexterDay]

Can you post some pics of the stove? Most stoves are sold because they have a bad build up within them (plugged with ash). Have you cleaned the unit entirely? From intake to exhaust ?? Do you know the exact exhaust path that the stove has? Some stoves have very tricky exhaust passages and need some creative tricks used to properly clean. A clean stove is a happy stove.

With that said, pellet build up is an airflow issue. Which can mean a couple different things? Either the intake is blocked (doubt this one)' the exhaust path is plugged up (new venting, so doubt this also), the stove is plugged with ash (used stove makes this a very good candidate), or there are leaky gaskets (also very likely do to being used).

Perform the dollar bill test on the door and ash pan gaskets (if it has an ash pan).

Take a dollar bill, open door to stove (Not running obviously) place dollar bill in area where gasket will close on it, close door as you normally would, then try and remove the dollar bill (or piece of paper), if it pulls out easily, the door needs adjustment, or if no adjustment, then replace gasket.

After that, clean the stove, then clean it again. Find out how the air exits the stove. This is vital for an owner to understand. The air comes in through the pot, then from there, it varies by stove make and model, but takes a path, or series of paths, to get to the combustion blower.

Also, is the burn pot sitting in the liner properly? Any air that is leaking by the pot, reduces the combustion air for pellets. A leaky gasket, burn pot not seated correctly, and a dirty stove, will build up pellets very quickly.

Do a search for Leafblower trick here. If you have an electric leaf blower with vacuum option, it's a great tool to have, to help you give the stove a little extra "zip".

 

[DexterDay]

After reading the manual, the unit seems pretty easy to clean and does mention a damper adjustment just above the ash pan, behind a little cover?

Have you read the manual? The PDF is free online and should be read several times to become familiar with the stove. It makes mention to pellet build up and what to look for and check.

(broken link removed)

 

[e-zlight]

Well, Talked with sierras "best" guy in the country, and he told me I need to extend my exhaust. For every 90 degree angle, I need 5 ft rise, and ever 45 degree and need 3 ft rise. He said the manual is wrong, to basically double what is in there, and I need to add another length. Then I wont be over filling my burn pot anymore. Sound about right?

Also, I've been told I can install the OAK into the floor to suck from the basement, and don't have to go right outside. This from my local stove shop, and the guy on the phone when I asked.

So basically my pipe kit wont cut it. I have a 45 coming from the stove to the thimble, the 90 of the T, and a 90 at the top. So I shoudl have about 15 feet of exhaust piping. I currently have about 5-7 feet. SO I need to add 2 more 5ft sections, and I should be good. Sounds awfull tall for a pellet exhaust pipe though. The one on my other stove is only about 4ft total height. Should I increase that one too? I'm running this easyfire 5100 and a Avalon 900PS to heat a 2300 sq ft house....Upstairs just doesn't get enough heat, going to have to play with fans to get things moving.

 

[DexterDay]

Did you ever check what I posted above (ash traps, leaky gaskets, etc?)

That much pipe doesn't sound right. Your gonna increase the EVL even more by doing that? The stove has a combustion blower, the natural draft isnt stronger than the blower. Its not a wood stove.

I would check gaskets, and use a air hose (compressed air) and preform the leaf blower trick. Also check the burn pot liner, to make sure it's sitting properly and and not leaking around the edge.

Did you read the manual? About proper cleaning? When and where?

 

[e-zlight]

Did you ever check what I posted above (ash traps, leaky gaskets, etc?)

That much pipe doesn't sound right. Your gonna increase the EVL even more by doing that? The stove has a combustion blower, the natural draft isnt stronger than the blower. Its not a wood stove.

I would check gaskets, and use a air hose (compressed air) and preform the leaf blower trick. Also check the burn pot liner, to make sure it's sitting properly and and not leaking around the edge.

Did you read the manual? About proper cleaning? When and where?

Yeah, I've been through the complete cleaning of the stove. That section on the air damper, doesn't seem to coorelate to this stove. I have no access panel such as what the image showed.

I thought the length of pipe sounded wrong, but he said the manual fo rteh stove is wrong, and is quite common. He said teh added length is needed for proper draft.

Also told me to change my tip to a thimble style...I don't remember teh exact name he used for it though.

I'll have to search for teh leaf blower trick.

I know the other day when it was very windy, a gust came through and shut the stove down. It trippe dteh high flue temp, and shut itself off...Went through and did the entire cleaning process.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

First off is your venting 4" and pardon us if we don't believe that your dealer did all of the right things.

Most pellet stoves work much better using as little venting as is possible, if your stove's combustion blower is a low CFM rate blower then adding vertical will provide a natural draft boost (some pellet stoves also need to comply with wood stove requirements, don't know enough about yours).

What is the altitude where you are?

Your OAK really needs to terminate outdoors. You are running two stoves and they are competing for combustion air along with any other combustion devices and ventilation systems.

 

[DexterDay]

Did you check the gaskets? Page 7 of the manual (3 paragraph down) goes into detail about the importance of a tight seal on door and ash pan?

Have you lowered the trim all the way?

If you dont have the clean out cover? Then have you removed the combustion blower? That needs done yearly, and I doubt its been done. Plus, this is the hardest area to clean, but when the blower is off, it is VERY EASY, and you get a great idea on how the air flows through the unit. You will need a new gasket ($10) but probably needs it bad. The area between your combustion blower and the firebox (passage) is where the fly ash Plugs things up.

I still suspect leaky gaskets and a good cleaning, into the "inner" parts of the stove.

Here is the LBT. You use a leafblower w/ vac option and put it on the end of the venting outside. It then sucks the ash out of the unit and all the inner hard to reach areas.

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[e-zlight]

First off is your venting 4" and pardon us if we don't believe that your dealer did all of the right things.

Most pellet stoves work much better using as little venting as is possible, if your stove's combustion blower is a low CFM rate blower then adding vertical will provide a natural draft boost (some pellet stoves also need to comply with wood stove requirements, don't know enough about yours).

What is the altitude where you are?

Your OAK really needs to terminate outdoors. You are running two stoves and they are competing for combustion air along with any other combustion devices and ventilation systems.

Vent kit is definately 4" duravent pro. As far as elevation, pretty much sea level, or not much higher. The gentleman on the phone stated that sierra figured out after the fact that the piping wasn't sufficient (and wouldn't own up to it), and he said that adding another section will definately do the trick. He seems to know the model and brand, but I still questioned that tall of a pipe.

Gotcha on the OAK.

 

[e-zlight]

Did you check the gaskets? Page 7 of the manual (3 paragraph down) goes into detail about the importance of a tight seal on door and ash pan?

Have you lowered the trim all the way?

If you dont have the clean out cover? Then have you removed the combustion blower? That needs done yearly, and I doubt its been done. Plus, this is the hardest area to clean, but when the blower is off, it is VERY EASY, and you get a great idea on how the air flows through the unit. You will need a new gasket ($10) but probably needs it bad. The area between your combustion blower and the firebox (passage) is where the fly ash Plugs things up.

I still suspect leaky gaskets and a good cleaning, into the "inner" parts of the stove.

Here is the LBT. You use a leafblower w/ vac option and put it on the end of the venting outside. It then sucks the ash out of the unit and all the inner hard to reach areas.

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Accept third party cookies

I'm actually not using the ash pan. There is a slide there that allows me to either use the pan, or leave all of the ash in the burn area. Where I can't burn more than say 15 hours without having to kill it and do a cleaning, I don't need the ash pan.

Lowering the trim all the way only effects the low setting. It over feeds in any setting., and the trim is set to the lowest setting anyways.

As far as the combustion blower, no I have not. And I question if it ever has. The gaskets on the door look fine, and it has a gap in the bottom where there is no gasket. I'll have to check that vid once I get home, youtube is blocked at work.

 

[DexterDay]

On some stoves, that "slide" you speak of, is the damper adjustment ?

Have you tried to open it when burning? Does the flame get very "active" when you open it?

As for the combustion blower? I would most definitely remove it and clean it, but more importantly, the area behind it Thats where your ash is building up.

 

[e-zlight]

On some stoves, that "slide" you speak of, is the damper adjustment ?

Have you tried to open it when burning? Does the flame get very "active" when you open it?

As for the combustion blower? I would most definitely remove it and clean it, but more importantly, the area behind it Thats where your ash is building up.

No, I have not tried to open it. The guy I got the stove from said he always kept it closed.

I'll do the combustion blower soon, and report what I find...Thanks for your help guys.

 

[DexterDay]

My buddies Brwckwell has a plate that opens an area directly under the burn pot, its a draft slide for combustion air..

Never assume the person you bought it from knew what he was doing either.

He likely sold it for 2 reasons. One it burned dirty and built up because he didnt properly clean it or Two he didnt know how.to properly operate it and it built up (and/or Both reasons).

A combustion blower gasket is Cheap and removing the motor will show you how the air flows through the stove (in the areas you dont see or even know exist)

As for the extra pipe. Natural draft is for older units that need it. Natural draft will not overcome the Blower this unit has. Try cleaning behind combustion blower, check gaskets (even the ash pan!!), do the LBTrick, and open that slide when you start a fire tonight (after you check and tighten gaskets up).