Am wondering what others are doing.
I begin with the bypass closed and work in the exhaust box above the exhaust tubes. First is to pull the turbulator chains, then take a scraper to the water jacket wall and follow up with a steel brush. Scrape ash into tubes. Next the cup shaped wire brush attached to an extension and spun by a cordless drill gets run through the tubes. Scrape what little ash is there into the tubes. Replace turb chains and close.
Next is the primary combustion chamber. Remove and set aside any large charred pieces remaining. Using a shovel from an old fireplace set with a shortened handle, I take the ash out through the main door and place into a metal pail. Then place the charcoals around the nozzle and place kindling over the nozzle and load with fuel.
In the secondary chamber is where the work begins. First is remove whatever ash is right at the front there and then commence to pull the tunnel pieces of refractory. Just like with the water jacket surface in the exhaust box, take a wire brush to all water jacket surfaces, including the bulkhead where the tubes are located. There is a lot of square inches there for heat exchange. Finally, pull all the ash out with the Eko provided tool and replace refractory pieces. I have added a fire brick split at each end of the tunnel to keep the blast off the door refractory and to keep ash buildup off of the water jacket bulkhead.
This stove, burning mostly red oak, likes to get the complete clean after 700 pounds are burned. The secondary chamber gets the wire brush before each firing, whatever I can reach without pulling the refractory.
It is a dirty job.
I begin with the bypass closed and work in the exhaust box above the exhaust tubes. First is to pull the turbulator chains, then take a scraper to the water jacket wall and follow up with a steel brush. Scrape ash into tubes. Next the cup shaped wire brush attached to an extension and spun by a cordless drill gets run through the tubes. Scrape what little ash is there into the tubes. Replace turb chains and close.
Next is the primary combustion chamber. Remove and set aside any large charred pieces remaining. Using a shovel from an old fireplace set with a shortened handle, I take the ash out through the main door and place into a metal pail. Then place the charcoals around the nozzle and place kindling over the nozzle and load with fuel.
In the secondary chamber is where the work begins. First is remove whatever ash is right at the front there and then commence to pull the tunnel pieces of refractory. Just like with the water jacket surface in the exhaust box, take a wire brush to all water jacket surfaces, including the bulkhead where the tubes are located. There is a lot of square inches there for heat exchange. Finally, pull all the ash out with the Eko provided tool and replace refractory pieces. I have added a fire brick split at each end of the tunnel to keep the blast off the door refractory and to keep ash buildup off of the water jacket bulkhead.
This stove, burning mostly red oak, likes to get the complete clean after 700 pounds are burned. The secondary chamber gets the wire brush before each firing, whatever I can reach without pulling the refractory.
It is a dirty job.