EKO Regular versus Super 1 model and differences with Tarm

[sfriedri]

I read through the EKO manual online and noticed that there are two versions of the boiler available: Regular and Super 1. Could EKO members let me know which version they have, and if they have the Super 1 model how well the lever operated tube cleaner works? Is this the only difference between these models?

I'm trying to decide between the EKO 40 versus Tarm 40, and have noted the following differences:

- the EKO has a larger firebox volume (185 liters versus 150 liters for the Tarm)

- the EKO uses a variable speed fan, whereas the Tarm is ON or OFF (?); the EKO specifies a power consumption of 50W versus the Tarm consumption of 110W

- the EKO has a bypass damper (how effective is this in reducing smoke while loading wood? - I suspect it depends on the natural draft created by chimney stack height)

- I have not been able to find much detail on the control used by the Tarm, but it appears the EKO control (RK 2001) allows for more flexible control including the use of an outdoor and indoor temperature sensor

I'd appreciate comments on these differences, and if I have missed anything significant.

Thank you.

 

[Eric Johnson]

Hi SWF. Welcome to the Boiler Room

I have the EKO 60 Super. In addition to the turbulator cleaner, the Super has a black iron coil inside that can be used for overheat protection. It also has a curved refractory base at the bottom of the firebox which seems to prevent bridging experienced by some people with the earlier, flat-refractory design. The turbulator/hx cleaner seems to work very well. I yank on the handle when loading wood and it seems to keep everything clean. I'm glad I don't have to take the back of the boiler apart a couple of times a season to brush out the tubes, because it's a dirty job and there are 16 tubes.

Turbulators are standard on the Super, but optional on the regular EKO and on the Tarms. The turbulators increase efficiency and, in the case of the EKO Super, allow you to keep the tubes clean.

I think the controller on the new EKOs is even better than the RK 2001, which is what I have. It reads out in Fahrenheit and allows you to set the max temp at 195 (compared to about 180 on the RK 2001). If it's not standard equipment, I'd try to haggle it into the deal.

I'm sure the Tarm has a bypass damper of some sort. You really need that to get a fire started, and when loading.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

I'm sure the Tarm has a bypass damper of some sort. You really need that to get a fire started, and when loading.

Yes, it does.

I'd debate whether it is necessary to get a fire started, but it certainly makes loading a less-smoky process.

EKO, Tarm, and Econoburn have them, off the top of my head. I'm sure at least a few of the others do, as well.

Joe

 

[Eric Johnson]

Debate away. I'm curious how you'd do that with a forced draft, downdraft gasifier.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

Debate away. I'm curious how you'd do that with a forced draft, downdraft gasifier.

Just build the fire "upside-down." The flames really don't care if they are going up or down. Heat makes them want to rise, but that sort of buoyancy is pretty weak, so the power of the fan can make them travel downward through the wood load. Works best with an accelerant of some sort.

I don't think it's a really good idea, and you'd get a lot of smoke into the building in the process, but if your damper was stuck closed, you could certainly do it.

Joe

 

[Eric Johnson]

I'll have to give it a try and see how it works. For an accelerant, I use pine cones or yellow birch bark. I'm picturing a bunch of smoke puffing out of the various gasketed areas, but what you say about flame direction makes sense.

Wouldn't work to build a fire with a stuck damper though, because at least on the EKO, the lever is designed to prevent the loading door from opening when the damper is closed. So when it sticks, you can't open the door.

BTW, my bypass damper used to stick all the time from creosote inside the firebox. I turned the handle on the loading door around so that I can open it when the damper lever is engaged (undermined the safety feature, in other words). Now, all I need to do to unstick the damper on the rare occasions when it happens anymore is to open the loading door and poke it open with a stick or other tool.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

Probably going to get some smoke if you run it without opening the damper, but it shouldn't be too bad if you don't over-load it.

Wouldn't work to build a fire with a stuck damper though, because at least on the EKO, the lever is designed to prevent the loading door from opening when the damper is closed. So when it sticks, you can't open the door.

As you said, that can be changed, if someone really wanted to.

Joe

 

[hkobus]

I have tried to do that after I installed the AD-1 draft inducer. It will need some more refinement, including more draft, (may take a larger higher speed motor). The other issue is, even when you get the fire started, you will need to reload with a flaming fire(as opposed to a coal bed). This will give a bunch of smoke without the bypass open.
Well this all work for later this year. First in line will be my hot-water storage and control system, some roofing, siding and wood splitting.

 

[Eric Johnson]

The main advantage I can see is that you would be able to start the fire and not have to worry about coming back right away and closing the secondary combustion chamber door. When you do get around to loading, then you can open the bypass and load normally.

 

[WRVERMONT]

I have noticed that with good draft you can start a downdraft fire(without the fan). One other thing to think about might be any developement of "start up tar" in the exchanger tubes. The fire isn't as hot at start up so mightn't there be some incomplete combustion you would want to exhaust strait to the chimney. The water being cooler at start-up would cause a higher tendency for exhaust to condense in the exchanger. Just speculation and surmission.?#@