Eko Tubulator/HX Cleaner

[jebatty]

Just curious as to how good a job this works. Tarm provides a steel bristle brush to clean the hx tubes, and it works well. Occasionally, I notice a small build-up, about dime size, in a spot or two on one of the hx tubes. I can't say whether this gets any worse, as I always brush it off. Maybe they would burn off on their own. A little extra brushing removes it, in all events. Can you view/inspect the hx tubes on the Eko to see how clean they stay?

 

[Duetech]

Don't know if you are talking about the manual tool or the "built in cleaner" the EKO** Super1 (as the model with the built-in cleaner is called) like mine has. Mine works really well for the most part. You do need to inspect them probably once a year as I had a problem with two of the clevis pins (that hold the turbulator's to the "cleaner crankshaft") fall out because the cotter pins that held them either fell out or corroded off. I think they corroded though I couldn't find a sign of them a third one was about to come loose because of corrosion. I replaced all of the pin set ups with ss bolts, nuts and washers. What tipped me off was the cleaning control handle seemed kind of soft in the cycling stroke and bad gasification (soft flame) and smoke no matter what my settings were at (the biggest tip@summer burn). The handle is so long that the leverage is about 20-1 ratio and you don't really miss the missing blades. Two of the turbulator blades were actually stuck in the tubes from creosote and the tubes were plugged with creosote too and it was a trick getting the blades out. (I used to burn wood 24-7-365 with no storage so I get a lot of idling) I pulled all 6 of the turbulators and bought an extension for a 1 1/2" blade long reach wood drill bit and trimmed the sides a total of about 1/64" then reamed all of the tubes using a portable drill. Worked fast and had great results. Now I try to be more attentive to the "feel" of the turbulator handle when I cycle it. I load the wood and cycle the handle each load. This coming summer I hope to incorporate the cycling of the turbulator handle with "popping" the bypass damper loose so I never have to contend with a stuck damper again. That way I will always be cycling the handle before I even attempt to load wood.

 

[Dave T]

I have a lot of fly ash (although I've just starting to work fire bricks in the bottom chamber which should help alot) in my exchangers I can get a good view if how clean they are comming by looking from the top of the unit down after removing one panel and a gasketed steel cover fastened with 10 bolts on welded studs (the EKO has to be shut down and not smoldering, to inspect or clean the exchangers although I like to keep it as warm as possible)..Mine is a standard and it has stationary turbulators,and a ram rod to run through the exchangers for cleaning it, this job could almost be on that dirtiest jobs show...The rod nocks the ash and loose stuff off (I pick up the soot that fell into the bottom chamber and recycle burn it in the top chamber) but I see a lot of residual that could be removed like with a wire brush on a long stem then put into a drill, but that being said I have no storage so idle time works against me, with storage I think they would burn themselves a lot cleaner..Dave

 

[Eric Johnson]

I have the Super and it works great. But Cave reminds me that I should check those cotter pins to make sure that all the turbulators are still attached. They were last time I checked, which was early in the heating season when I took the stove pipe off for cleaning. You can see the mechanism from the back, but not down the tubes.

Generally speaking, I think you determine the condition of the tubes by keeping an eye on the stack temps. If you get higher temps, it's probably time for a good brushout. I haven't checked my stack temps in awhile, but I believe my boiler, for whatever reason, is running more efficiently this winter than last. I'm burning less wood, in other words, and it's been a lot colder. So as long as the turbs are still doing their thing, I'm not going to worry about it.

Zenon at New Horizon recommends taking everything apart once a year and brushing out the tubes. I'm halfway through my second season, and I haven't done it yet.

Here's what the assembly looks like, BTW, in case you haven't seen it. This was my boiler before I installed it. I think I have a dozen tubes, if memory serves. There's a bank in the front and one in the back, and they rock up and down when you yank the handle.

 

[Eric Johnson]

It just occurred to me when I went out to check the boiler that an easier way to see if all the turbulators are attached and moving in the tubes is to open the bottom door and have somebody move the handle back and forth while you take a look. That way you'll be able to see the bottoms of the turbs move up and down. If you don't see one or if it's not moving with the others, then you've got a minor problem. You might not be able to see the four directly behind the refractory bricks, however.

 

[Duetech]

I checked mine they don't come down far enough to see them.

 

[Eric Johnson]

Interesting. Mine do. I have to move the handle to raise the ones in front up far enough so that I can get the ash cleaning tool underneath to clean out the ashes.

 

[Duetech]

Makes me wonder when my model was made then unless it is just the mfg intent. With the turbulators extending all the way down you are sure to get a full cleaning but since the fire is the hottest at the the entry of the tubes they may have thought it unnecessary because it would be unlikely to be a place for creosote to collect. And maybe they just like to keep us guessing.