Electric motor won't engage on Bilt-Hard splitter

[SamOwens]

Hello, I went out to split a few logs today and during the process of the piston moving the electric motor quit. I will try to explain. In the line drawing there is a button that I push which engages the motor.

Once the motor is running I can engage the piston. The button push is trying to engage the motor but won't. It seems to me as if the motor won't spin up even though I am providing the power. I highlighted the motor in red so it can be seen that it is separate from the button assembly. My skill level isn't the best. The splitter is less than a month old and I have contacted the company. Are there any electrical mavens out there that might offer some advice and/or knowledge? It's worked well on the logs I do until now. BTW it was -5 F when I tried this AM. I doubt that is to cold but what do I know? Thank You

 

[blades]

Very possible that the temperature is your problem. Motor drives the hydraulic pump, fluid at that temp becomes almost like mollases. So the up shot is the motor hasn't got enough umph to run the pump under those conditions. if you can get in somewhere that you can put a space heater blowing on it and give a couple hours , that will likely get it running. just the friction created in the system should keep it going the rest of your work time. Only way around this is to change fluid to something designed for extreme cold. Your system is a momentary drive design Hydro pressure out -spring return which isn't going to be helpful in very cold conditions.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Very possible that the temperature is your problem. Motor drives the hydraulic pump, fluid at that temp becomes almost like mollases. So the up shot is the motor hasn't got enough umph to run the pump under those conditions. if you can get in somewhere that you can put a space heater blowing on it and give a couple hours , that will likely get it running. just the friction created in the system should keep it going the rest of your work time. Only way around this is to change fluid to something designed for extreme cold. Your system is a momentary drive design Hydro pressure out -spring return which isn't going to be helpful in very cold conditions.

You can buy little 120V or 12V heater pads that you can RTV onto something flat

120W Silicone Heater Pad Engine Block Hydraulic Tank Heating Plate Oil Pan Sump Tank Heater Pad with Plug : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

120W Silicone Heater Pad Engine Block Hydraulic Tank Heating Plate Oil Pan Sump Tank Heater Pad with Plug : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.ca

 

[Turbo89]

Put it inside to warm it up and try it again. Definitely plausible that it’s temperature related. Secondarily, sometime long extension cords can cause motor starting problems; so if you can plug it directly into an outlet that may help.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Hello, I went out to split a few logs today and during the process of the piston moving the electric motor quit. I will try to explain. In the line drawing there is a button that I push which engages the motor. View attachment 343877Once the motor is running I can engage the piston. The button push is trying to engage the motor but won't. It seems to me as if the motor won't spin up even though I am providing the power. I highlighted the motor in red so it can be seen that it is separate from the button assembly. My skill level isn't the best. The splitter is less than a month old and I have contacted the company. Are there any electrical mavens out there that might offer some advice and/or knowledge? It's worked well on the logs I do until now. BTW it was -5 F when I tried this AM. I doubt that is to cold but what do I know? Thank You

Do you recall if the motor hummmmmed like it was stalled? In some cases it could trip the breaker or go out on thermal protection. If it did not make any sound at all it must be the control parts and it was not getting power.

 

[SamOwens]

Do you recall if the motor hummmmmed like it was stalled? In some cases it could trip the breaker or go out on thermal protection. If it did not make any sound at all it must be the control parts and it was not getting power.

When I press the button there is a hum. The garage is on it's own circuit and has only a few LED lights to run. With that info, when I press the run button, the splitter hums and the lights dim until I release the button. Interestingly, there is a button that appears to be a reset button ? which is on the housing that holds the start button.

The green arrow leads to the start button and the red arrow leads to the button that IS NOT described in the directions. Thank You for the reply and I hope my post answers what you were asking. The previous day while splitting a couple logs I noticed that the splitter sounded "different" but not like it was in trouble and I don't think I would describe the difference I heard as a hum.

 

[SamOwens]

Put it inside to warm it up and try it again. Definitely plausible that it’s temperature related. Secondarily, sometime long extension cords can cause motor starting problems; so if you can plug it directly into an outlet that may help.

If I could put it inside I would. Thing is the bugger weighs over 100 lbs and I am a weakling. No way I can get it up the back steps by myself.

 

[SamOwens]

Very possible that the temperature is your problem. Motor drives the hydraulic pump, fluid at that temp becomes almost like mollases. So the up shot is the motor hasn't got enough umph to run the pump under those conditions. if you can get in somewhere that you can put a space heater blowing on it and give a couple hours , that will likely get it running. just the friction created in the system should keep it going the rest of your work time. Only way around this is to change fluid to something designed for extreme cold. Your system is a momentary drive design Hydro pressure out -spring return which isn't going to be helpful in very cold conditions.

That was the first thing I thought of. I went to the big box store yesterday to buy a heater attachment for my propane tank but did not because it stated "FOR OUTDOOR USE". I want something I can safely use in my garage. My garage is hardly sealed. When snow comes from the east it comes through every crack and accumulates but I just wasn't sure. I wish I had bought it now. Thanks for your reply

 

[SamOwens]

You can buy little 120V or 12V heater pads that you can RTV onto something flat

120W Silicone Heater Pad Engine Block Hydraulic Tank Heating Plate Oil Pan Sump Tank Heater Pad with Plug : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

120W Silicone Heater Pad Engine Block Hydraulic Tank Heating Plate Oil Pan Sump Tank Heater Pad with Plug : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.ca

I have a heating pad! I am going to slap it on there tomorrow. I like problem solvers. Thanks!! and thanks for the link

 

[John Mc]

The Mr Heater Big Buddy propane heater is OK to use indoors. A lot of the hardware stores, Tractor Supply Co, and other big box stores in my area carry them.

I keep one around with the hose and adapter for a 20# propane tank for emergency use or to heat up my garage if I need to work in it in the winter.

Note: you do get a good bit of moisture build-up if you run one in a well-sealed room for an extended time.

 

[Whitenuckler]

When I press the button there is a hum. The garage is on it's own circuit and has only a few LED lights to run. With that info, when I press the run button, the splitter hums and the lights dim until I release the button. Interestingly, there is a button that appears to be a reset button ? which is on the housing that holds the start button. View attachment 343952The green arrow leads to the start button and the red arrow leads to the button that IS NOT described in the directions. Thank You for the reply and I hope my post answers what you were asking. The previous day while splitting a couple logs I noticed that the splitter sounded "different" but not like it was in trouble and I don't think I would describe the difference I heard as a hum.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0779/8672/6190/files/TLA-0101_7b74413f-5de7-4511-83a0-d426493bbfdc.pdf?v=1737101207

page 7 has a typical electrical layout. KH is an overload with a reset red arrow. It is very confusing to me how it works but if the green arrow points to a switch that would make sense. It is a permanent capacitor start/run motor. It's possible the cap is bad if the pump is good
Edit - not sure how this works - do you press the start button to split (operates the ram) then release the start button? Anyway, if it humms I'd look at uncoupling the pump and retesting