What kind(s) of back up power do you use if any?
A year after we got ours I decided to get a battery back up unit. It plugs into the electric plug and keeps a battery trickle charged. If power goes out the battery can power supply can power the stove for 23 hours. Unfortunately I left the unit attached to the battery and never checked the fluid level so it finally gave out. It was a marine deep discharge battery so a bit expensive. Needless to say I haven’t gotten another one as I would probably take just as good care of a new one as the last.
Our back up house generator is not working at present, hasn’t for a number of years due to burning out the bearing at the back of the generator proper. It was supposed to have been repaired by the local repair shop under warranty but I was afraid to run it for too long as the bearing in question was not aligned correctly with the inner race; the rear grease seal and the ends of the rollers were showing. Over the intervening years I have promised myself to find out what the solution would be.
At first I thought a new bearing would be the solution but never got around to getting one so the generator languished. This year I decided to investigate the problem even going to the trouble of calling Coleman’s service department. They were of no use as they said the solution was to buy a new “Endbell” the part that holds the bearing but that would only give me the same endbell. They said just getting a new bearing wouldn’t help as it had to be pressed into the endbell with a special tool.
One of the reasons I haven’t done much is because I was afraid the stator would drop if I removed the endbell but this year I bit the bullet and took a chance. It turned out to be a non-problem. After removing the end bell I could tell there was a misalignment between the bearing and the inner race. The solution seemed to be to move the inner race out a bit BUT there is no way I can get a gear puller in a position to grab behind the race so that solution is out.
Contrary to what I was told the bearing will move though it is tight. Long story short I got a new bearing (same make and size) and will put it in place of the old one (one grease seal was shot). The bearing is held in place not by pressing it in but rides in a special collar that slips into the endbell, which, by the way is plastic, and the bearing slips into that.
What I have to do is make a collar of about 3mm. approx. to fit into the end bell before the bearing goes in. that 3mm will move the bearing back so the rear grease seal rides on the race. That should fix the problem of the bearing over heating for loss of lubricant.
It so happens that while I was building model cars I got a Unimat lathe that is sufficient to make the collar since it doesn’t need to be terribly accurate. The machine is good for about .001” plenty accurate for what I want to do. All I need now is either some aluminum rod stock or something high temp plastic.
Once I get the endbell back on everything should be copasetic. The engine still runs well, I started it a couple of weeks ago and ran it for 15 or 20 minutes without problem. Once it is back up and running I could care less about the battery back up.
A thought. If someone is looking for a battery back up unit I have one, it just needs a battery. PM me with your email address and we’ll see what transpires. I live just north of Danbury, CT.
A year after we got ours I decided to get a battery back up unit. It plugs into the electric plug and keeps a battery trickle charged. If power goes out the battery can power supply can power the stove for 23 hours. Unfortunately I left the unit attached to the battery and never checked the fluid level so it finally gave out. It was a marine deep discharge battery so a bit expensive. Needless to say I haven’t gotten another one as I would probably take just as good care of a new one as the last.
Our back up house generator is not working at present, hasn’t for a number of years due to burning out the bearing at the back of the generator proper. It was supposed to have been repaired by the local repair shop under warranty but I was afraid to run it for too long as the bearing in question was not aligned correctly with the inner race; the rear grease seal and the ends of the rollers were showing. Over the intervening years I have promised myself to find out what the solution would be.
At first I thought a new bearing would be the solution but never got around to getting one so the generator languished. This year I decided to investigate the problem even going to the trouble of calling Coleman’s service department. They were of no use as they said the solution was to buy a new “Endbell” the part that holds the bearing but that would only give me the same endbell. They said just getting a new bearing wouldn’t help as it had to be pressed into the endbell with a special tool.
One of the reasons I haven’t done much is because I was afraid the stator would drop if I removed the endbell but this year I bit the bullet and took a chance. It turned out to be a non-problem. After removing the end bell I could tell there was a misalignment between the bearing and the inner race. The solution seemed to be to move the inner race out a bit BUT there is no way I can get a gear puller in a position to grab behind the race so that solution is out.
Contrary to what I was told the bearing will move though it is tight. Long story short I got a new bearing (same make and size) and will put it in place of the old one (one grease seal was shot). The bearing is held in place not by pressing it in but rides in a special collar that slips into the endbell, which, by the way is plastic, and the bearing slips into that.
What I have to do is make a collar of about 3mm. approx. to fit into the end bell before the bearing goes in. that 3mm will move the bearing back so the rear grease seal rides on the race. That should fix the problem of the bearing over heating for loss of lubricant.
It so happens that while I was building model cars I got a Unimat lathe that is sufficient to make the collar since it doesn’t need to be terribly accurate. The machine is good for about .001” plenty accurate for what I want to do. All I need now is either some aluminum rod stock or something high temp plastic.
Once I get the endbell back on everything should be copasetic. The engine still runs well, I started it a couple of weeks ago and ran it for 15 or 20 minutes without problem. Once it is back up and running I could care less about the battery back up.
A thought. If someone is looking for a battery back up unit I have one, it just needs a battery. PM me with your email address and we’ll see what transpires. I live just north of Danbury, CT.
