Enerzone Insert Advice

[jy1220]

Good Morning or Good day,

This is my first post, as I have never owned a fireplace until now. My wife and I just had an insert installed by a professional in September. Prior to the install, the dealer came over, inspected the chimney and existing fireplace, and measured all clearances, and suggested we go with an Everzone Solutions 1.7. Immediately following the installation, the technician stated that I am not to use fire starters, nor are we to leave the air adjustment open during burning durations, as this will damage the insert. Upon using the insert for about 3 weeks consistently, I find that I can only manage to reduce the air adjustment about 1/4 to 3/4, otherwise, if I close it all the way, all fires smolder, or go out completely. Am I doing anything wrong to the insert by not closing the air all the way, as the installer instructed?
I bought a moisture meter for the wood we have been using, and all is @ 9 to 15%. The manual states up to 20%, is adequate. I also noticed some slight glazing on the sides of the door, with heavier glazing on the top of the Chimney Cap Screen.
My chimney is masonry cinderblock, 15ft high, 11 1/2 square terracotta flue, that now has an insulated stainless steel 6”flex pipe installed with the insert. Before all was installed, I had a contractor come and clean the chimney. My questions are:
1) Am I damaging the insert by not being able to reduce the air all the way as instructed?
2) Since I have only used the insert for a few weeks, and already notice some glazing on the top cap, and door, should I arrange to have everything cleaned again?
I apologize in advance, for my being new and naive, to owning an insert, or if my questions seem rediculous.
I appreciate any and all advice.
Respectfully,

John Y.
Bushkill, PA

 

[marty319]

You mean enerzone

 

[jy1220]

Yes, that’s correct Enerzone

 

[marty319]

Get the firebox real hot before shutting it down slowly.dry wood a must

 

[jy1220]

Get the firebox real hot before shutting it down slowly.dry wood a must

Thank you for replying marty319.

I have been adding 3 to 5 pieces of dry wood per reload, and leave the door cracked, and air valve fully open until I get a large fire. This usually takes 10 to 20 minutes. Then I close the door, which always substantially reduces the flaming. After 15 to 30 minutes with a medium to large size flame, I always try to reduce the air, only to a level that allows a small to mid size flame to continue and burn, which lasts approximately 3 to 3 1/2 hours. But again, I can never seem to close the air valve all the way, which the installer initially told me to do without the flames disappearing, and/or smoldering. Is it normal to leave the air adjustment open somewhat during the duration of the burn? Or am I damaging the insert by doing so?

Again, I apologize for my lack of knowledge with these things. I have read the owners manual pretty thoroughly several times, but it is not too resourceful with regards to my situation.

 

[marty319]

I went from an enviro woodstove to a osburn ,made by the same company that makes enerzone.it is a totally different animal to burn almost like I'm learning to burn again and I've been burning woodstoves since 1982.i can't really turn my osburn down all the way until I have a fair amount of wood in it burning hot .

 

[jy1220]

I went from an enviro woodstove to a osburn ,made by the same company that makes enerzone.it is a totally different animal to burn almost like I'm learning to burn again and I've been burning woodstoves since 1982.i can't really turn my osburn down all the way until I have a fair amount of wood in it burning hot .

I gotcha... I will try adding more wood, and keep the air adjustment open until real hot... then I will gradually reduce the air, and see what happens...

Thank you for your input. I really appreciate it.
John Y.

 

[marty319]

It's a learning curve you will get it.make sure wood is dry

 

[Woodsplitter67]

just to make sure.. your wood when you checked it.. you split the wood open and put the moisture meter on the fresh split side.. correct.. pins with the grain.. to me it sounds a little like wet wood..

 

[jy1220]

just to make sure.. your wood when you checked it.. you split the wood open and put the moisture meter on the fresh split side.. correct.. pins with the grain.. to me it sounds a little like wet wood..

Thanks for replying,

No, I have been checking it incorrectly, and not as you suggest...

I will split a piece in the morning, and see how it tests.

Thank you for the tip.
John Y.

 

[begreen]

Yes, this sounds like the wood isn't fully seasoned. That makes a very big difference in stove performance and user satisfaction.

 

[jy1220]

Yes, this sounds like the wood isn't fully seasoned. That makes a very big difference in stove performance and user satisfaction.

Makes perfect sense. I purchased the wood locally from someone who came highly recommended by neighbors, who has been in the firewood business for over 50 years. He said that he only sells hardwood that has cured 1.5 years or more. I tested a few pieces that were just delivered on Friday, but again, did not cut into it first to test. I will do that at first light, to see how it is. Thanks , again , for the advise.
Warm Regards,
John Y.

 

[marty319]

Let us know how it goes

 

[jy1220]

Let us know how it goes

Will do... and thank you...

 

[kennyp2339]

The suspense is killing me

 

[Woodsplitter67]

The suspense is killing me

my guess is 26 to 30 MC

 

[jetsam]

The suspense is killing me

You've read enough of these threads to know the answer already!

 

[Riteway]

I have a similar insert (made by the same company). It's a bit of a learning curve at first, so don't get discouraged. Here's some advice, in no particular order.

1) Don't even bother trying to burn wood with a moisture content of >20 %. Use those compressed sawdust bricks for this year if your wood ends up needing more time to season. In the meantime, try burning some 2x4 scraps, pallet wood, etc.
2) When starting the stove, aim to get the firebox heated up quickly. Use lots of dried kindling, and starting the fire close to the door (which is right under the air intake) helps. After you get the swing of thing, try a top-down fire.
3) After the kindling burns down to coals, rake the coals to the front of the stove, then load the stove. Placing some smaller splits on the coals will help the wood catch on fire quickly.
4) You will see smoke out of the chimney when starting a fire and when adding wood. Between those times, you shouldn't see smoke. If you do, your wood is too wet and/or you closed the air down too soon

 

[jy1220]

You've read enough of these threads to know the answer already!

Well, you guys were right as rain with the moisture content of the wood. I received two separate orders. One on October 3rd, and one on this past Friday. The wood from Friday’s delivery after cutting into it is 26 to 28%. The wood I received in October after cutting is 18 to 22%. So thanks to you good people, I understand how to check the wood proper. I will forget about using any of this wood this year. I will scrounge up some compressed sawdust bricks for this year, and forage about for some wood to split and save until ready. Riteway, Thank you very much for your expertise. I will take your advice on the reloading, and checking the chimney during burning. You guys have been an awesome help here...

Respectfully,
John Y.

 

[kennyp2339]

You can def mix in the Oct 3rd batch with compressed bricks.

 

[jy1220]

Sounds like a good plan... Thanks KennyP.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Well, you guys were right as rain with the moisture content of the wood. I received two separate orders. One on October 3rd, and one on this past Friday. The wood from Friday’s delivery after cutting into it is 26 to 28%. The wood I received in October after cutting is 18 to 22%. So thanks to you good people, I understand how to check the wood proper. I will forget about using any of this wood this year. I will scrounge up some compressed sawdust bricks for this year, and forage about for some wood to split and save until ready. Riteway, Thank you very much for your expertise. I will take your advice on the reloading, and checking the chimney during burning. You guys have been an awesome help here...

Respectfully,
John Y.

so just a heads up.. when buying wood from someone.. its never fully seasoned.. Our standard of seasoning is different then someone who sells firewood . Its best if you buy green wood and season it yourself. then you know its done properly. Green wood will cost you less. You can also buy log lenth from tree guys and cut,split and stack it yourself..

 

[jy1220]

so just a heads up.. when buying wood from someone.. its never fully seasoned.. Our standard of seasoning is different then someone who sells firewood . Its best if you buy green wood and season it yourself. then you know its done properly. Green wood will cost you less. You can also buy log lenth from tree guys and cut,split and stack it yourself..

Gotcha, the second load I bought is supposedly all hardwood, @ 1.5 years cured. The guy came highly recommended by my neighbor, and I’m sure in some cases the wood wouldn’t be problematic to burn in a regular fireplace,pit, or something other than this insert or wood stove.
Come Spring and Summer I plan on acquiring the Green Wood you suggested.
For now, meaning this Winter, I hope to be able to obtain a pallet of those Firebricks that you guys were nice enough to recommend, but so far, I haven’t found anyplace out here that would sell or deliver them.

 

[begreen]

A lot of firewood sellers think that an unsplit log that sat in a pile, or worse yet on the ground for a year, counts as seasoning. It doesn't really. Seasoning starts after splitting and stacking off the ground. Also, the conditions for when it's seasoning can vary a lot. Wood stacked off the ground with the wind blowing through it will season much quicker than wood that is heaped in a pile on the ground. And the bottom of that pile will take the longest.

 

[marty319]

A lot of firewood sellers think that an unsplit log that sat in a pile, or worse yet on the ground for a year, counts as seasoning. It doesn't really. Seasoning starts after splitting and stacking off the ground. Also, the conditions for when it's seasoning can vary a lot. Wood stacked off the ground with the wind blowing through it will season much quicker than wood that is heaped in a pile on the ground. And the bottom of that pile will take the longest.

Friend of mine bought a load of 8ft white poplar few years ago ,told me it was seasoned for 2 years,well 1 foot into those lengths and it was still green.