Englander 25-pdvc ignitor location

[MaryH]

We have an Englander 25 pdvc, that we bought new.

Construction date 08 2008.

We replaced it with a 25-pah, and now are (were) going to give the pdvc, to our daughter.

The ignitor, on the pdvc, croaked, while under warranty, and we never replaced it.

While re-gasketing it, and getting it ready - we thought, we'd put in the new ignitor.

I "thought", it should be centered in the hole, but no matter what - as soon as we try to tighten the bolt, that secures the ignitor, it insists, on being on jammed, on the bottom of the hole - it will not be centered, no matter what we try.

Is it ok, like this?

Is this why it failed?

Is there anything to do about it? We tried grinding a flat, on the old one, to see if it would help - but no go.

Thanks, for any suggestions.

 

[mralias]

I suggest you posts some pics of your issue. It may help us better understand the position of the ignitor you are referring too. Generally, ignitor location is very important on how the pellets are ignited.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

it doesnt have to be "dead center" can be off a bit , as long as you can look through the hole in the front and see at least half of the tip, also its important that its stood back away from th ehole approximately an eigth of an inch to allow the hot air to flow properly out to fire the pellets.

if you cannot get the igniter to align properly the last course of action would be to remove the burn pot and use a screwdriver to kinda gently pry the igniter up into center. but we want to avoid this as we will need a new burn pot gasket if we pull the pot

 

[HarryH]

I am Mary's hubby. The stove is at my shop. We have a new burn pot gasket.

I didn't know if it was kosher, to pry on the igniter, but will give it a try.

Straight on pic (sorry for the fuzzy), that is with the bolt tight, I had a screwdriver, jammed under it, to hold it up, but as soon, as I remove the screwdriver - it moves back to this position.

Thanks

 

[stoveguy2esw]

ok, loosen it up in the back, rotate it a bit then push the screwdriver in to hold it up , then tighten and see if it stays up in the center where we want it, if it looks good "dry fit" the pot without the gasket and verify its centered well, then pop the pot back out and install the gasket then put the pot back in if all is where we want it

 

[HarryH]

No luck, so far. Too bad the machine shop, next door went out of business, or I would have them make me, a collar, with an angled hole.

Where, it is. in the pic (shoved completely to the bottom, but centered horizontally) is where it returns, when taking the screwdriver (and small pry bar) out.

The hole for the collar, to set in, seems to be machined at an angle. I can feel, a shoulder, at the bottom of the hole - for the collar to bottom out to - but not at the top of the hole.


*edit
"new thought"
I think I can fairly easily grind the face of the collar, at an angle - and that should put it, where it's supposed to be.

 

[MaryH]

Hubby here...I ground, and filed the collar, to an angle, and put a washer in front of it, so that is was up against the collar stop in the stove - and it stayed centered, when I took out the screwdrivers.

*But, then, the hole in the burn pot, was too low.

I put a couple of big washers, under the burn pot, to hold it, where all lined up - and tightened the bolts. That seems to have worked. I don't think, it's gonna hurt, having a space, under the burn pot (?).

As an aside....while experimenting, with the old igniter, I kinda bent it - and it works again, but leaving the new one in.

 

[HarryH]

MAJOR WASTE OF TIME

The control board, is apparently not sending enough amps, to the igniter circuit. Shows 108 volts, but won't light, a light bulb.

I suppose that's why the old igniter, still works.

This is a lesson...had I replaced the igniter before, I would have found the bad control board, and other problems - and it would have been covered under warranty.

 

[mralias]

Don't beat yourself up too much. Many of us have been in the same boat with what we should have done. Hopefully, at least you found out what was causing the problem. Good luck!

 

[MaryH]

What is the criteria used, by the stove, to turn on and off the igniter? Time, or temperature?

It wouldn't be hard, to put a separate 110 accessory outlet, and timer (if that's what's used).

Any thoughts?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

the igniter runs for 13 minutes from the pressing of the on button. supplying the igniter separately would work but we would need to control the current going to it, should you hook up to a straight 110 outlet it could pull more current that we want to and blow the igniter pretty quickly.

i do not know what the load on the igniter is off the top of my head, would have to find that out from the manufacturer of the board to see what load we put to it normally. i'll see what i can find out. however even at 108VAC we should be able to generate enough heat with proper airflow to fire fuel providing we are getting enough airflow through the igniter sleeve.

have we checked the air inlet for the igniter to ensure its not restricted?

check just forward of the setbolt at about "11 o'clock" there should be a metal cap there, remove the cap to allow more air IN and see if this results in more heat out to the fuel. note also that without a fresh gasket behind the burn pot its not going to light

 

[HarryH]

NOoooo, I am not taking the igniter back out, especially since I have a spare

The stove fires up, if I hot wire the igniter.

The spare igniter, does not get hot, at all, when plugged into the board.

The board (at least that part of it, "IS" dead)

All the neighbors, and customers, have been amazed, at the complexity, involved, in taking out one bolt, unplugging two wires, and reversing procedure - turning into a 3 day project.

 

[bill3rail]

Mary,

I think you misspelled your town name.
I had spent a lot of my youth on family property in Trout Run, PA north of WilliamspoRt.

Bill

 

[MaryH]

Added "r" lol.....thanks