Stove has been idle. It went through start-up normally and I noticed the top auger was not feeding. I removed motor and tested and found it turns with direct voltage applied. I did a master reset (F5) also the other reset where you scroll through each function (all appear to work) Checked vac. lines and also tried to start with vac switches jumped. Tried resetting several times. Now when I attempt to start it goes into E-2 code within a few seconds. Dont know if I made a simple problem a bigger one by doing all the resets?
Englander 25-pdvc problem
- Thread starter chuckwagon
- Start date
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I ran the scroll type test again and everything did what it was supposed to do. All the numbers on the board matched what the manufacturer said they should, and the upper auger also turned. The stove did fire in this mode. I unplugged it to put it back in the run mode. When the unit starts it goes into the E-2 mode within 5 to 7 seconds...... I let the stove run in the E-2 mode, with the thought that it would recycle and reset. It had run in that mode for more then 30 minutes and did not shut off. The stove was not hot, as it only fired the handful of pellets from the diagnostic test.. I restarted again and its now running in the E-2 mode and the stove is cold. I will let it run, but my feeling is it will run like this till I pull the plug again?..... Any thoughts on why it would go into E-2 error that quickly? Everything I have read suggests that this code happens after 20-30 minutes and not a few seconds... Thank You for any tips you can suggest, Chuck
Yes igniter works fine..... seems all components are working on the diagnostic test..... When I put it on run mode it goes to E-2 error in a few seconds.
Hmmm...Sounds like you are doing everything correctly. I don't have any good advice. There is a guy on here who's screen name is Ssyko. He will get you straightened out.
Thank You, this one has me scratching my head.......The stove had been idle, so I thought some mice damage or something..... The test shows each part doing what its supposed to, so I`m assuming its not a wiring problem?... On initial start up it fired up, but no top auger, It was after the resets and tests that the E-2 error showed up. Thanks again, and if an idea pops up, give me a shout. Luckily this stove is for my music studio so no emergency if the heats not on. Thanks again, Chuck
Just make sure the collar is tight on the top auger motor and make sure your exhaust is completely clean throughout the stove and see how it goes. E2 is a failure to light code if I remember correctly. I would also do a search on this page for other forum conversations about this problem. Lots on here.
Yeah my best guess is that some fault is being detected that would put it in the error mode almost instantly.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Hi Chuck if you did the factory diagnostics (hold down bottom right 2 buttons, which only tests function of the motors). Its a decieving test because it only powers the motors and bypasses circuits on the board. Check your thermister connections on the stove and control board (little white plug and a copper sensor) bolted to the bottom of the firebox in the back. Also time your igniter and see how long it takes to start glowing. Also check what mode it is in (unplug 15sec plug in and within 5 seconds hold down both blower arrows for 10 sec then release. Mode should show up in left led window. Factory is C. Factory resets it to A 90% of the time on the pdvc’s. Make sure its on C and try the stove
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Hello ssyko, Thank you for your reply....... Try as I may, I cannot get the function to tell me the factory setting. I dont know if that is a telling clue or not? I will check the tightness on the thermister, all seems intact, but I will get a socket on it to make sure its tight. Thank You, Chuck
Ok. I did tighten the thermister, it was fairly tight, but did get the nut to tighten a smidge. When I started the stove it went to E-2 then I let it run and it stopped at E-1. I dont know if if did that yesterday or if I was to hasty, anyway I put my attention to the vacuum switches. I found a cracked connection at the comb. blower and was able to shorten the tube and make a tight connection. I also ran a wire down the comb. motor tube and pulled the smoke pipe and made sure all the flue ways were clear. I did not realize the vacuum switches had 3 connections, so I followed the wiring diagram and i`m pretty sure I have the wiring back where it belongs. I did suck in on the vacuum switches and they seem to be pulling in as they should. Of course after all that it goes to E-2 then E-1...... I did attempt the procedure you mentioned several times and was still unable to access what the factory setting is. I dont know if that is whats preventing start up or something I `m over-missing? ....... You mentioned testing the igniter, yesterday when I ran the motor test`s the igniter did light the pellets I had in the burn pot fairly quick. Thank You for your patience and I greatly appreciate all your advice. Chuck
Update: I was able to access the ABCD settings, I found a post that said to put it in F-5 mode then turn it off and on and then do the blower buttons.......It was in A and I turned it to C, Same results as before...... The thing is, I cant tell if it did indeed go to the C setting, the only way to check is go to F-5,which I assume will bring it back to the A setting..... I followed the instructions that got me to the abcd settings, so I`m going to assume that I followed them correctly, and it stayed in the C setting when I finished the procedure.
ericofmaine
Feeling the Heat
I'm going to suggest you have either a leak still or a bad vacuum switch or switch hooked up backwards. My 25 PDV did the same thing yours is doing after I had pulled the combustion motor to clean it then forgot to plug it in after reinstalling. I got the E-2 almost immediately. Also, like Ssyko said (I think), just because the diagnostics work, that doesn't mean your board is good. Have you tried switching the two auger motor feeds to see if the problem moves to the lower auger?
Eric
Eric
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Ok by “F5”, you mean the master reset? Evertime you reset the board will go back to factory settings and the mode will change. After you get the board reset and the mode in “C”. Check that the combustion blower is running you may have to pull it to make sure and clean the impeller/housing and ensure your vent pipe is clean. Pull the impingement plate and tap the wall with a rubber mallet vacuum out everything. Check the port the igniter is in and the vac hose connections for cracked hoses. Ck the vac ports itself and make sure its clean. 99% of england stoves issues are cleanliness. Then give the stove a run and we will go from there
Thanks Guys, Yeah, going to start from scratch. The stove always worked well when I had it in the house. When I moved it to my studio, it did not get the use I expected. It has sat idle for the most part these last 2 seasons..... Going to get into all the chambers with a vacuum and brush and recheck every hose and wire. Thanks for all your help, will report back after this next stage. Chuck
I am not sure how big your studio is but I have heard that these stoves in smaller areas really like the OAK.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Chuck i was rereading your first post. I miss read your stove model. The factory mode for the pdvc is “D”
OK, I pulled apart the comb. motor and gave everything a good vac & brushing. Was hoping there would be some dead mice or something, that would have explained things lol. I double checked the vacuum switches and hose (I had one wire on NC instead of NO) I put everything back together (will order a new gasket) I fired up the stove and it went into SU with no error lights. The top auger was not turning again, so I`m back to where I was before I started playing with it. (a good thing I guess) I did jump out the vacuum switch that controls the top auger and runs into the fire box. I moved the stove to get a better look at the hose connection to the fire box. I could not remove the hose from the firebox barb, but it felt soft and did not feel brittle. I also ran a wire again through the hose and into the fire box, to make sure it was still clear. I put it all back together, no change. I jumped out the pressure switch at this time and it also made no change to the top auger. I think I mentioned earlier that I had pulled the top auger and put power to it and it ran. It also ran when I did the by-pass test. I checked at the auger motor terminals and I had no voltage on these past starts today. So thats where I`m at. Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated, and I thank you all for patience and assistance........ OH when I restarted the igniter started to glow red in about one minute (my best guess,was counting as I watched).. Also the room blower comes on and runs if that tells you anything. Thanks again, Chuck
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Very good Chuck, eliminating the cleanliness issue and jumping the vac switch for the upper auger and it didnt help. Igniter circuits is good. With no line voltage from the board im betting the board is bad. Has it been plugged into a surge protector?
No on the surge protector. In my studio, I have it it set up with a main panel knife type switch. I did that so that when I leave there is no power to anything, as I may be there and then not in there for 2 weeks. I keep one outlet on a separate panel that stays hot for my security cameras and a fridge if I decide I need one. I mean, with electric surges, I guess anything is possible, but for the most part, the power is off unless I am there. I guess I just want to be certain before I pluck down 300.00 for a new board.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
It may be just a bad triac. If your handy with a multimeter you can check the triac on the board and see if that is the problem
Main Terminal 1, Main Terminal 2 and Gate.
Note: Main Terminal 2 is connected to the metal part of the TO220 housing
To test this device, connect the ohmmeter leads to MT2 and MT1.
The ohmmeter should indicate no continuity ( infinite Ohms ). While they are connected take a paper clip and connect the gate #3 to MT2 and you should get a reading from .59 to .69 depending on multimeter power
A shorted/melted triac will indicate zero Ohm between MT1 and MT2 no matter what's happening on the gate
Main Terminal 1, Main Terminal 2 and Gate.
Note: Main Terminal 2 is connected to the metal part of the TO220 housing
To test this device, connect the ohmmeter leads to MT2 and MT1.
The ohmmeter should indicate no continuity ( infinite Ohms ). While they are connected take a paper clip and connect the gate #3 to MT2 and you should get a reading from .59 to .69 depending on multimeter power
A shorted/melted triac will indicate zero Ohm between MT1 and MT2 no matter what's happening on the gate
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OK Thanks, I will talk to a friend who is much better at these thing then me and run the test. Thanks again, will get back to you in a day or so with the results.
Does the Triac pull out of the board? Or am I missing how the meter probes are placed?
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