Englander 25pdv Lazy Flame, Pellet Build Up in Burn Pot

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Nov 20, 2014
65
Upstate NY
Well I'm back at it again trying to dial in this Englander. Never really got the stove running perfect since my last post a few seasons ago. I'm still getting a lot of build up of pellets in the pot after 8-10hrs of use, and my flame is more like a campfire reaching all the way to the top of the stove. I have seen an Englander same as mine recently with that blow torch type flame, and that's what I'm trying to achieve.

Heres what I've done so far:

Full and thorough clean out, used the leaf blower, inspected all internals with inspection camera to make sure it was not restricted.

Changed burn pot gasket, combustion motor gasket when I removed it for cleaning.

There is no adjustable plate in the bottom of my hopper to restrict pellet flow

I am using Outside Air, inspected there are no restrictions.

Settings are factory 6-4-1

Hoping you guys can help me get this thing tuned. I'm on the fence about buying a new combustion fan, but want to try a few more things before I spend the most bet. Would hate to buy it and have the same results.
 
Are you sure the combustion fan is running up to speed? If everything is indeed clean, the fan or the vent is suspect.
 
Well I'm back at it again trying to dial in this Englander. Never really got the stove running perfect since my last post a few seasons ago. I'm still getting a lot of build up of pellets in the pot after 8-10hrs of use, and my flame is more like a campfire reaching all the way to the top of the stove. I have seen an Englander same as mine recently with that blow torch type flame, and that's what I'm trying to achieve.

Heres what I've done so far:

Full and thorough clean out, used the leaf blower, inspected all internals with inspection camera to make sure it was not restricted.

Changed burn pot gasket, combustion motor gasket when I removed it for cleaning.

There is no adjustable plate in the bottom of my hopper to restrict pellet flow

I am using Outside Air, inspected there are no restrictions.

Settings are factory 6-4-1

Hoping you guys can help me get this thing tuned. I'm on the fence about buying a new combustion fan, but want to try a few more things before I spend the most bet. Would hate to buy it and have the same results.
I have the same stove and with some fine tuning it burns like a MOFO. However, I have a PDVC that has been a headache since last February. I now feel I've got that in sync with the PDV. Enough about me so tell me a few things...

Stove location?
Piping method?
Have you plugged the bottom 2 holes under the burn plate?
Did you verify you're burning in D mode?
Is your hopper lid secure and tight?
Have you changed the door and glass gasket?
Have you checked for air leaks using a lighter while the stove is on?
Have you spoken to anyone at Englander?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
I have the same stove and with some fine tuning it burns like a MOFO. However, I have a PDVC that has been a headache since last February. I now feel I've got that in sync with the PDV. Enough about me so tell me a few things...

Stove location? It is in my workshop, detached garage / barn.
Piping method? There are 2 sections of pipe going outside to a tee, with about 4ft of vertical, and small clean out going down.
Have you plugged the bottom 2 holes under the burn plate? I seen the post on this, but I haven't tried it, didn't want to burn the shop down.
Did you verify you're burning in D mode? I have been looking all day for the instructions on how to change modes. When I got it, it was set up where the heat and blower moved together, but then I changed it to the mode where you could adjust them independently. If someone wants to share how to change modes, that would be great so I can make note of it.
Is your hopper lid secure and tight? Hopper lid is secure, and there is no play once it is locked down.
Have you changed the door and glass gasket? I have not changes the door, and window gasket.
Have you checked for air leaks using a lighter while the stove is on? Yes, I checked the door and window gaskets.
Have you spoken to anyone at Englander? No, I did not think they would offer any service as this thing is well out of any warranty periods.
 
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Stove location? It is in my workshop, detached garage / barn.
Piping method? There are 2 sections of pipe going outside to a tee, with about 4ft of vertical, and small clean out going down.
Have you plugged the bottom 2 holes under the burn plate? I seen the post on this, but I haven't tried it, didn't want to burn the shop down.
Did you verify you're burning in D mode? I have been looking all day for the instructions on how to change modes. When I got it, it was set up where the heat and blower moved together, but then I changed it to the mode where you could adjust them independently. If someone wants to share how to change modes, that would be great so I can make note of it.
Is your hopper lid secure and tight? Hopper lid is secure, and there is no play once it is locked down.
Have you changed the door and glass gasket? I have not changes the door, and window gasket.
Have you checked for air leaks using a lighter while the stove is on? Yes, I checked the door and window gaskets.
Have you spoken to anyone at Englander? No, I did not think they would offer any service as this thing is well out of any warranty periods.
I just literally laughed at your burning the shop down! That's not going to happen. All you are doing is diverting the air to come directly up through the bottom of the burn plate.

Englander customer service is fantastic so just call them and they will help you. Your unit does not need to be in warranty for them to help and believe me they are extremely helpful.

Here's the instructions to verify your burn mode.. Unplug the power supply from the wall and plug it back in and within 4 - 5 seconds you need to press both the up-and-down blower buttons at the same time and in the window to the left you will see either A, B, C or D mode in the heat range digital display if you see anything other than D then use the up and down buttons to change it to the proper mode which is D.

If I was you I would go to your local store and pick up a 3/4 round gasket and replace the door gasket. I believe the window gasket is proprietary and you must get that from Englander.

I don't see anything else wrong with what you're doing and you're install sounds fine to me. Out of curiosity what brand of pellets are you using?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
Well the stove was on C, and I just switched it over to D, and fired it up. I will let it burn for a bit, and post back with a pic of the flame.
C mode is the hottest setting. You'll see a difference for sure! You should plug the bottom holes... You'd be pleasantly surprised on how nice the burn gets. I'm looking forward to hearing / seeing the results. One last thing... If you are still seeing a very tall Flame that is pretty much indicative with an air leak and I would go to the glass or the door seal first!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
Is the difference between C & D just the heat?
And of course the burn too! Being on C is not your only problem. I really feel you have an air leak somewhere. My door seal was no good and the dollar bill and lighter test did not catch it. In all... Just maybe C mode is the culprit.

I'm curious.....

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
The flame didn't change any...
 

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The flame didn't change any...
I'm curious at what the glass looks like when you burn. Is it whitish or black? I'm seriously thinking that you have an air leak! In my downstairs pdvc I had a wild flame like that so yesterday I changed the door seal and poof I now have a normal flame! Do yourself a favor and plug those bottom holes!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
I'm curious at what the glass looks like when you burn. Is it whitish or black? I'm seriously thinking that you have an air leak! In my downstairs pdvc I had a wild flame like that so yesterday I changed the door seal and poof I now have a normal flame! Do yourself a favor and plug those bottom holes!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


That pic above is with the bottom holes plugged, I used some steel wool, and stuffed it in there. As for the window it will get all sooty white in about 18hrs or so. I am going to change the door and glass seal, suspecting the glass seal might be the issue, even though it passed all the standard tests. I just shot some compressed air around the outside of the door, and glass, seen a little piece of fiberglass moving in one particular spot when testing the window this way. Do I just call ESW and order the parts? Have a local shop here in NY, but don't think they will have the proprietary window seal. Any special tricks I need to know for the door / glass seal install?

I'm starting to get excited about how much heat this thing is going to generate once its working properly. I have lots of powdercoat to catch up on since I've been tinkering with this stove, damn OCD/ADD!

Anyone have a pic of an Englander 25pdv flame when its burning properly?
 
That pic above is with the bottom holes plugged, I used some steel wool, and stuffed it in there. As for the window it will get all sooty white in about 18hrs or so. I am going to change the door and glass seal, suspecting the glass seal might be the issue, even though it passed all the standard tests. I just shot some compressed air around the outside of the door, and glass, seen a little piece of fiberglass moving in one particular spot when testing the window this way. Do I just call ESW and order the parts? Have a local shop here in NY, but don't think they will have the proprietary window seal. Any special tricks I need to know for the door / glass seal install?

I'm starting to get excited about how much heat this thing is going to generate once its working properly. I have lots of powdercoat to catch up on since I've been tinkering with this stove, damn OCD/ADD!

Anyone have a pic of an Englander 25pdv flame when its burning properly?
http://www.heatredefined.com/

That's the link to the Englander website. If you go on the website there's a video that shows you how to change all of the gaskets. They're also having a sale right now on gasket replacement.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
http://www.heatredefined.com/

That's the link to the Englander website. If you go on the website there's a video that shows you how to change all of the gaskets. They're also having a sale right now on gasket replacement.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
2c3b1a63a55d19eb6206665441f1c1ed.jpg

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
I just literally laughed at your burning the shop down! That's not going to happen. All you are doing is diverting the air to come directly up through the bottom of the burn plate.

Englander customer service is fantastic so just call them and they will help you. Your unit does not need to be in warranty for them to help and believe me they are extremely helpful.

Here's the instructions to verify your burn mode.. Unplug the power supply from the wall and plug it back in and within 4 - 5 seconds you need to press both the up-and-down blower buttons at the same time and in the window to the left you will see either A, B, C or D mode in the heat range digital display if you see anything other than D then use the up and down buttons to change it to the proper mode which is D.

If I was you I would go to your local store and pick up a 3/4 round gasket and replace the door gasket. I believe the window gasket is proprietary and you must get that from Englander.

I don't see anything else wrong with what you're doing and you're install sounds fine to me. Out of curiosity what brand of pellets are you using?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Do you know what is the purpose of these different burn modes and what each one actually does? I have a 55-TRPIP and am wondering about mine.
 
Do you know what is the purpose of these different burn modes and what each one actually does? I have a 55-TRPIP and am wondering about mine.
I believe A is a diagnostic mode, not sure about B, C is a hotter burn for models PDV & PDVC and D is the proper normal mode for PDV & PDVC. I'm not sure what your mode should be, but if you call Englander or do a search on this site it will help.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
Good news, my local pellet parts store had both window and door gasket. I will be changing them later today.

How long until I can run the stove after new gaskets? 24hrs?
 
Good news, my local pellet parts store had both window and door gasket. I will be changing them later today.

How long until I can run the stove after new gaskets? 24hrs?
Truthfully they say 24 hrs, but I went 12 and was fine. I'm quite surprised you found the adhesive backed gasket for the window, but good for you. Just FYI... When you apply the silicone for the door gasket make sure the round rope gasket is pushed against the center lip not so much towards the outer. Apply a good sizeable bead down the center and then another smaller bead against the inner lip. Set the gasket in place then close the door. Just remember its gonna be a tight fit initially until the gasket sets up. I'd wait a few hours and then open the door to scrape any excess silicone and then close again to complete an 8-12 hour drying period. Good luck and let us know......

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
Two questions - 1) Is the restrictor plate in the bottom of your hopper removed/missing or was your stove designed not to have one? 2) What heat range are you running it on?

That's a big flame you got there. Without the plate, maybe it's feeding way more pellets than it should be. If there are a lot of pellets in the burn pot, it might lead to a lazier burn. The one on my stove is nearly fully closed (which leaves about 1.5" of the auger exposed). I believe this is how it was set at the factory in 2015. I'll try to get a picture if I remember and I catch my stove nearly empty.

What's the biggest flame look like if you set the heat range on like 3 or 4?

You might also try to adjust your settings. I've set mine to 4-6-1 and it seems to keep the burn pot and glass a bit cleaner. I don't remember these settings really adjusting the behavior of the flame, however, but it might be worth a shot before you buy a combustion blower.

For reference, this is all with big box pellets. Current Stove Chows and re-branded Maine Woods Pellets from Tractor Supply.
 
Two questions -
1) Is the restrictor plate in the bottom of your hopper removed/missing or was your stove designed not to have one? There is no presence of any screw holes or hardware that would have held a restrictor plate, so I am going to say that there was not one from the factory.

2) What heat range are you running it on? In the pic of the flame above thats with the stove on Heat 5 / Blower 5, if I run it at 9-9 flame looks the same but the buildup of pellets grows into an unburnt lava like overflowing pot on about 10-12hrs.

That's a big flame you got there. Without the plate, maybe it's feeding way more pellets than it should be. If there are a lot of pellets in the burn pot, it might lead to a lazier burn. The one on my stove is nearly fully closed (which leaves about 1.5" of the auger exposed). I believe this is how it was set at the factory in 2015. I'll try to get a picture if I remember and I catch my stove nearly empty.

What's the biggest flame look like if you set the heat range on like 3 or 4? It is usually a consistently large flame as pictured even when on 3 or 4.

You might also try to adjust your settings. I've set mine to 4-6-1 and it seems to keep the burn pot and glass a bit cleaner. I don't remember these settings really adjusting the behavior of the flame, however, but it might be worth a shot before you buy a combustion blower.

For reference, this is all with big box pellets. Current Stove Chows and re-branded Maine Woods Pellets from Tractor Supply.
 
Here's a video of my flame last night on 5-5:


You did verify it was on D mode correct? Forgive me since I just realized you said this was from last night. I truly believe you have a problem with the door gasket or the window gasket!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
You did verify it was on D mode correct? Forgive me since I just realized you said this was from last night. I truly believe you have a problem with the door gasket or the window gasket!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Last night when I checked, it was on C, and I changed it to D. Going to pull the door off and change the gaskets in a few minutes.
 
Last night when I checked, it was on C, and I changed it to D. Going to pull the door off and change the gaskets in a few minutes.
You'll be good to go tomorrow morning. Don't be stingy with the silicone!!!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
Ok, the new gaskets are on, but I think I might have run into the previous owners own little DIY job. I've never really taken note of how the glass was held in, but with the door out on the table it seemed obvious someone was there before me. For starters the gasket in the glass had no adhesive backing like the new Englander replacement I picked up today, and the only thing holding in the glass were these four little tabs I marked with the yellow arrows in the photo. When installing the glass with new gasket I realized that these tabs cannot be how Englander installed it... they barely apply any pressure to the gasket / glass and I will have some serious leaks. So I decided to sandwich some flat steel marked with red arrows in the photo between these tabs and the gasket / glass. It is pretty tight now, and pretty sure it's not going to leak.

Question is, what does the factory setup from Englander look like? Can I order it?

Could someone please post a pic of how their glass is held in on a 25-PDV?

Door is back on, and I will be eagerly waiting to test this thing out!
 

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