Englander 28-3500 add on

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
Oct 24, 2015
3
maine
Hey guys/gals. Newbee here. My wife and I purchased and installed the 28-3500 englander from Home depot. We DO NOT have any duct work in our home. We live in Maine and up until this install have used a propane boiler for heat. I have called the local fire chief out to inspect it and he said it looks good and is writing a letter approving the install.
Here's my question. I just want to run one pipe to the first floor to a vent in the living room. My stove is in the basement. That's all I want to do. I know this is an add on, but I don't want to add on, I want IT to be the heater. I plan on using this to supplement my propane boiler.
There has to be some kind of clearances I imagine, or pipe code(heat rating, insulation) etc....
I plan on running about 20 feet of 8" duct pipe up to a vent in the floor upstairs.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mark
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Englander 28-3500 add on
    maxresdefault.webp
    150.6 KB · Views: 162
The manual doesn't provide a lot of hookup or safety information. The furnace is designed for adding on to an existing system. Hopefully someone with a current mechanical code book can jump in here and help. The supply will get hot and has the potential, say in a power outage, to get very hot. I would follow or exceed UL testing guidelines. That is metal piping with at least 2" clearance from combustibles for the first 6ft. and 1" clearance after that.
You might also think about the return air path. With no return ducting the basement will be acting as the return plenum. If the basement is an open space maybe consider installing a large return register in the floor in the opposite side of the house so that warm air is pulled through the house before returning to the basement. If this is done note that a fuseable-link damper assembly is required in many jurisdictions. Check with the inspecting authority to verify plans for the ducting and return before cutting holes.
 
begreen,
Thanks for the quick reply. You're right, the manual has nothing in it about what I want to do. When I emailed Englander, they just told me to use 250 degree rated pipe. I want to overdo safety so I turned to the message board hoping someone can help guide me through.
 
Paging @stoveguy2esw Call in the lobby for Mike Holton tech support manager at ESW.. This gentlemen needs to know the clearance to combustibles for the ducting on this puppy. Pretty common info for wood furnaces.
 
That is metal piping with at least 2" clearance from combustibles for the first 6ft. and 1" clearance after that.
That is a bare minimum, many wood furnace manufacturers recommend 6" for the first 6' and then 2" after...I personally would err on the side of caution for some peace of mind for power failure events
 
Agreed. If clearances are close it wouldn't hurt to put a sheet of cement board as a shield under the joists.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.