Englander 30-NC --smoke back--help needed

[gollub01]

HI everyone, First time poster here. Just wanted to thank everyone over the past year or so for their endless info. I have a situation that forum can surely help with. Anyways I give some back round:

My girlfriend and I live in a 600 sq. ft yurt. This isnt just your avg. yurt, this is fully winterized, plumbed, wired and set up for full-time living. Its beautiful and we love it. We are nesteled against the foot hills of darby canyon on the idaho side of the tetons. Its cold and snowy and an incredible place if your into anything outdoors. So last winter was our 1st winter. We acquired a 1979 Vermont castings resoulte. Our stove sits by the front door of the yurt and from the top of the stove the pipe goes 2 ft. up then 90 degree bend thru the wall for 2.5 ft. then another 90 degree bend and straight up for about 15 ft.......about 3 feet above the dome. The stove cranked for us. At -28 outside we had 74 inside. The stove worked well but we are 24/7 burners and needed a larger stove....so.....

In came the Englander 30-nc. Awesome stove, big box, long burn times.....here we go. Everything went in well. Again we installed with original stove pipe....6" double wall metal-fab pipe and class A. Same configuration....about 1.5 ft. up from the stove then 90 and another 90 and straight up for about 15ft.

Stove seems to work hard and fire good but always getting back smoke when reloading. We alwasy have the air control open and we crack the door and open slowly still seems to happen. We have tried a few different things:

1. Cleaned all pipe and cap
2. Tried the fab I learned on here about bridging the gap between the 2 baffles with metal stock
3. Tried to move the baffles around to allow the smoke to escape easier

Nothing seemed to help. It would still smoke back into the room. Our wood is good and super dry doug fir and lodgepole pine. Thanks kinda the best around here. Also the glass seems to stay pretty clean when we dont shut the air off too much. If its smoldering the glass will get dirty, but we always burn hot.

So visiting my girlfriends mom, she has few years old quarda fire. Smaller fire box but pretty simialiar design to the 30-nc. but I notice the baffle board is about flush with the first burn tube....the 30-nc over hangs the first burn tube buy a inch at least.

What I am thinking is I have a slight draft issue. My stove pipe is totally clear of trees or objects.....we have had 20 degrees and colder already with little improvement. So do I need even more pipe, does my stove not like the 90 degree bends, or I am considering trimming the baffle back 1 inch like the quadra-fire and if it doesnt work buy replacements. Thanks again guys and gals.

 

[jqgs214]

Does that horizontal run slope upward, needs about 1/4" per foot, instead of 2 90deg what about doing 2 45deg's?

EDIT, oops goes through wall forget the 45's but make sure that the horizontal slopes upward.

 

[gollub01]

Yes sir it has sufficient slope...

 

[cmonSTART]

Any pictures of the yurt? I love those things.

I wonder if the conventional rules for wood stoves are any different for a structure like that.

 

[gollub01]

Thanks everyone----I'll post some pics tomorrow....up in montana right now. All I can say is that I am within code and mfg specs....But the draft was strong with the old VC.....The hungry 30-nc seems to want more air/draft.

 

[BrotherBart]

Re-burn stoves like the 30 do need a buncha draft. They have to drag the primary and secondary air all the way from the lower back of the stove to the front through those manifolds and in the case of the secondary air through the burn tubes. Lots of distance, resistance and 90 degree turns.

I will leave the fluid dynamics particulars to Rick.

 

[webbie]

Chimney would seem to be short on draft.
Were you able to use the Resolute with the downdraft system engaged? The Resi needs a lot of draft also.

Basically, most stoves need a minimum of 14 feet of pipe from the stove straight up. Adding elbows to the situation is like removing chimney height - I would say about 3 feet minimum per 90 degree turn. That would mean you have an effective chimney height of only 9 feet.

Of course, you'll want to check everything else like the baffle placement, etc.

Also, is your chimney insulated? ot stove pipe.......is it a TEE fitting outside?

make sure all stovepipes are tightly sealed at seams with furnace cement. Add more chimney height if possible, etc.

 

[Hogwildz]

Does it have outside air? Try cracking a window or door open and see if that makes any difference. If it does, you need to hook up an outside air kit.
Maybe the yurt is a tad too tight. Although I would think you would have a draft problem all together.
If all else fails, you might want to try 2-45 or 30 degree elbows instead of the 90s.

 

[cmonSTART]

Actually, how air tight is a yurt?

 

[BrotherBart]

Actually, how air tight is a yurt?

Since Yurts were designed to be easy to knock down and transport on Yaks, I have a question. How do ya get a 30-NC up on the back of a Yak? :ahhh:

 

[cmonSTART]

Pretty easily actually. Just remember to use an approved heat shield with a 1 inch air gap where you are going to tie it on. Dems are hot suckers!

 

[Hanko]

what the hell is a yurt? ya got internet in it to boot, cool

 

[gollub01]

haaha you guys are cracking me up.....Well go to pacific yurts and you will see what a yurt is for all those wondering.....And yes we have wireless internet. The yurt is very airtight....no drafts or leaks. Its winter package consists of NASA grade insulation, which is bubble wrap with foil layers on each side. I knew it was only a matter of time before someone noted the 30-nc in a yurt but.......It rips. I dont know the total pipe lenght but the long vertical run is 15ft total.....(not included the 90 degree bends) The outside air is not hooked up. But the open door seems to do little. I mean the ceiling height is 14' plus is it really starving for inside air. THanks again guys.....im getting some of the smartest people around these parts. thanks again,

sean,