Englander 30-nch

[Chas0218]

My wife and I are purchasing a new house and I have loved having wood stoves for supplemental heat, ambiance, and emergency heat. She is fine with the idea and I would be installing this myself. My main concern is with the ability to heat. The Englander 30 boasts an impressive 2400 sq. ft. heating ability and that is great but our house after the addition/remodel it will be 2500 sq. ft. that is at the high end maybe out of the realm of heating for this stove. The house will be 2 story with good insulation possibly spray foam in the addition either way it will be sealed best as possible but the rest of the house will be untouched for the most part. It has newer low e windows and seems to hold the heat well. The main floor will be 1376 sq.ft. and the upstairs 1161 sq.ft. The house will configured as a 1.5 story with good instulation in the roof around R40+ and R30 in the new walls. The stove will be going in the addition's 300sq.ft. family room. I was planning on adding vents in the 1st story ceiling to help circulate the warm air up stairs. I was also thinking about adding a "cold air return" in the upstairs family room which is centrally located to allow the cold air to circulate back down to the lower level. The nice part about doing a remodel I can adapt new things to the old construction do allow the stove to do a better job of heating the house. Another thing I wanted to add was it will have an open banister and open concept on the 1st floor. Attached is the purposed floor plan, from the horizontal red line going the direction of the arrow is the addition with the wood stove. All things considered I have thought this out and "think" this is my best bet.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

[sportbikerider78]

I have a 2100 ft ranch with 15-20' ceilings. It heats my house just fine in the same climate as you....my insulation isn't all that great, but typical of the late 80's.

It is MUCH easier to heat a house that is 2 story than a ranch. Heat likes to go up, not sideways.

I think its a safe bet, but others here are more experienced than I.

 

[Highbeam]

I own an NC30 and run it really hard to intermittently heat 1800 SF of shop space with a 14' ceiling. You can't really use the SF ratings of a stove since so many assumptions go into that number such as ceiling height, insulation level, outside temperature, etc. Instead you can only really go by stove output which is directly related to stove size. The NC30 is about the biggest stove you can buy. That's why I bought it plus it is an exceptionally good value at the low price of 600-800$ and well made.

If your question is whether the NC30 is big enough, well, you can't go much bigger and I wouldn't want a smaller stove either.

 

[Chas0218]

I have a 2100 ft ranch with 15-20' ceilings. It heats my house just fine in the same climate as you....my insulation isn't all that great, but typical of the late 80's.

It is MUCH easier to heat a house that is 2 story than a ranch. Heat likes to go up, not sideways.

I think its a safe bet, but others here are more experienced than I.

Yeah that is what I am thinking. Also thinking about adding some thermostats wired to a blower in the ceiling vent I was talking about and using that "outside air vent" ran into the basement to pull the air from there into the stove to form a vacuum in the basement. I don't think the house is super tight but the ceilings on the 1st floor are on the shorter side (8' max) and the up stairs are going to be 9' so nothing too drastic.

I own an NC30 and run it really hard to intermittently heat 1800 SF of shop space with a 14' ceiling. You can't really use the SF ratings of a stove since so many assumptions go into that number such as ceiling height, insulation level, outside temperature, etc. Instead you can only really go by stove output which is directly related to stove size. The NC30 is about the biggest stove you can buy. That's why I bought it plus it is an exceptionally good value at the low price of 600-800$ and well made.

If your question is whether the NC30 is big enough, well, you can't go much bigger and I wouldn't want a smaller stove either.

Yeah the only option would be a 2nd stove on the other side of the house but I really don't want to have to feed and tend 2 stoves. Being about 1000 sq.ft. on the first floor I feel it will heat that 1st floor really well and move its way to the upper story. The ceilings are 8' max on the first floor so I don't think I will loose too much up to the ceiling. What I do loose should make its way into the upper story or that's the hope.

I am assuming that the house was wrapped with house wrap then they add the vinyl siding if not it will be after the remodel and all window and door cracks will be sealed. I'm hoping to make this house as tight as possible to help keep the basement on the dryer side.

 

[kennyp2339]

My buddy has a 2,400 sq ft center hall colonial, stove is in the kitchen / living room fairly open floor pan to the upstairs, the stove heats his place no problem.
Spare your the struggle of installing vents for hot air, focus on a cold air return, it will force a convective path through the house being that cold air is more dense, don't bother trying to circulate the heat through existing duct work, you will need +120f air to feel any of it.
If your house is tight and you want to reduce any type of draft the stove will produce in the living space install an outside air kit, make sure the kit intake is either level with or below the stoves fire box height.
Also how long of a chimney are you going to install, if you go above +25ft you may want to consider installing a damper or get heavy duty metal magnets to reduce the air intake of the stove to slow the draft down...its the nature of the beast, England NC30's are a great stove, build heavy duty, best bang for the $$ and built in the USA.

 

[Chas0218]

My buddy has a 2,400 sq ft center hall colonial, stove is in the kitchen / living room fairly open floor pan to the upstairs, the stove heats his place no problem.
Spare your the struggle of installing vents for hot air, focus on a cold air return, it will force a convective path through the house being that cold air is more dense, don't bother trying to circulate the heat through existing duct work, you will need +120f air to feel any of it.
If your house is tight and you want to reduce any type of draft the stove will produce in the living space install an outside air kit, make sure the kit intake is either level with or below the stoves fire box height.
Also how long of a chimney are you going to install, if you go above +25ft you may want to consider installing a damper or get heavy duty metal magnets to reduce the air intake of the stove to slow the draft down...its the nature of the beast, England NC30's are a great stove, build heavy duty, best bang for the $$ and built in the USA.

Sounds good. Exterior chimney will be close to 20 and probably 6' inside so 26' total at most but closer to 22'. I was thinking about adding a damper but I'm afraid with majority of the triple wall exposed to the elements outside it will slow the smoke too much and cause creosote build up. Would necking down the fresh air intake help? It has a 3" opening, my though was to neck down to 2 3/4" restricting it slightly.

 

[BigFir]

I have a 3000sq/ft 2 story house and have no issues keeping the house from 20c - 25c with the 30. Air circulation is key. My stove is in the basement and works well from there. Old house but fairly new windows.
This fan installed in the floor is the cat's meow when creating circulation, I have it blowing up, the flow of cool air coming down the stairs is tremendous. Some say it should be blowing down, but it was installed when I bought the house and works great this way. When I have to replace it I will try switching flow direction for poops and giggles....

 

[Chas0218]

I have a 3000sq/ft 2 story house and have no issues keeping the house from 20c - 25c with the 30. Air circulation is key. My stove is in the basement and works well from there. Old house but fairly new windows.
This fan installed in the floor is the cat's meow when creating circulation, I have it blowing up, the flow of cool air coming down the stairs is tremendous. Some say it should be blowing down, but it was installed when I bought the house and works great this way. When I have to replace it I will try switching flow direction for poops and giggles....
View attachment 192547 View attachment 192548

How noisy is the fan? It looks like a duct fan. I was thinking of adding one in a vent like you showed then have a wall mounted thermostat to control the flow for each bedroom and have a vent that allows cool air to return back down the stairs. Maybe I'm over thinking it but remodeling allows me to add stuff where I want it the first time and not have to screw with retro-fitting later and something coming out looking like crap.

 

[BigFir]

It is not bad, although I only have to run it at 1/4 speed. It will get noisy if you crank it way up, but it's not necessary. Yes it is a simple duct fan.

 

[Highbeam]

I was thinking about adding a damper but I'm afraid with majority of the triple wall exposed to the elements outside it will slow the smoke too much and cause creosote build up. Would necking down the fresh air intake help? It has a 3" opening, my though was to neck down to 2 3/4" restricting it slightly.

No it will not help. The NC30 has 4 combustion air intakes. Only one of them is the 3" nipple and it is the only one that is controllable with the draft control, the rest are full throttle all the time. The draft control works well and limits that 3" hole to a tiny sliver of opening so it's not an option for additional speed control.

Rather than a damper in the flue, I too would rather limit the intake somehow and people have had success with this on the NC30. Reversible modifications. The other three holes on the stove are accessible and can be partially blocked with magnets or foil tape. This will tame the beast.

I have 19' of vertical stack and have excellent control with all of the intake holes fully open as designed. I find the stove very controllable and I don't baby it.

I modified the stove by adding a much larger blower, thermostatic blower control, and a convection deck to really strip the heat.

 

[Chas0218]

No it will not help. The NC30 has 4 combustion air intakes. Only one of them is the 3" nipple and it is the only one that is controllable with the draft control, the rest are full throttle all the time. The draft control works well and limits that 3" hole to a tiny sliver of opening so it's not an option for additional speed control.

Rather than a damper in the flue, I too would rather limit the intake somehow and people have had success with this on the NC30. Reversible modifications. The other three holes on the stove are accessible and can be partially blocked with magnets or foil tape. This will tame the beast.

I have 19' of vertical stack and have excellent control with all of the intake holes fully open as designed. I find the stove very controllable and I don't baby it.

I modified the stove by adding a much larger blower, thermostatic blower control, and a convection deck to really strip the heat.

OK so I'll try her stock then look into the holes of I'm blowing thru wood. You made the other stuff i take it? How much air gap did you leave?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Highbeam]

OK so I'll try her stock then look into the holes of I'm blowing thru wood. You made the other stuff i take it? How much air gap did you leave?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I think it's 1.5". If you'd like to make one I can take measurements for you.

 

[Chas0218]

I think it's 1.5". If you'd like to make one I can take measurements for you.

That would be great when you get a chance no hurry though.

 

[Highbeam]

That would be great when you get a chance no hurry though.

It's 1.5" 0.125" thick square stock. The convection deck on this stove totally changed it into a heating machine. Right now the stove and entire shop are 40 degrees. I plan to heat everything up to 70 with 4-5 reloads within a 12 hour stretch and keep the nc30 at 700+ the whole time!

If somebody would release a clean burning wood furnace that makes less than 4.5 gph to be legal in Washington I would be a great candidate.

 

[Dieselbreath]

My wife and I are purchasing a new house and I have loved having wood stoves for supplemental heat, ambiance, and emergency heat. She is fine with the idea and I would be installing this myself. My main concern is with the ability to heat. The Englander 30 boasts an impressive 2400 sq. ft. heating ability and that is great but our house after the addition/remodel it will be 2500 sq. ft. that is at the high end maybe out of the realm of heating for this stove. The house will be 2 story with good insulation possibly spray foam in the addition either way it will be sealed best as possible but the rest of the house will be untouched for the most part. It has newer low e windows and seems to hold the heat well. The main floor will be 1376 sq.ft. and the upstairs 1161 sq.ft. The house will configured as a 1.5 story with good instulation in the roof around R40+ and R30 in the new walls. The stove will be going in the addition's 300sq.ft. family room. I was planning on adding vents in the 1st story ceiling to help circulate the warm air up stairs. I was also thinking about adding a "cold air return" in the upstairs family room which is centrally located to allow the cold air to circulate back down to the lower level. The nice part about doing a remodel I can adapt new things to the old construction do allow the stove to do a better job of heating the house. Another thing I wanted to add was it will have an open banister and open concept on the 1st floor. Attached is the purposed floor plan, from the horizontal red line going the direction of the arrow is the addition with the wood stove. All things considered I have thought this out and "think" this is my best bet.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

My daughter heats with a nc30 and by 10 am it's 80 degrees in her house. They have it in the addition of their house. I would install the nc30 first with the recommended stove pipe first then if needed put in the vents and cold air return. Keep in mind that if you put any thru wall vents in there may be code requirements. They live on the upper story in their house and the basement if admittedly cold. They also have a dehumidifer going full time (drys out the basement).

 

[Chas0218]

My daughter heats with a nc30 and by 10 am it's 80 degrees in her house. They have it in the addition of their house. I would install the nc30 first with the recommended stove pipe first then if needed put in the vents and cold air return. Keep in mind that if you put any thru wall vents in there may be code requirements. They live on the upper story in their house and the basement if admittedly cold. They also have a dehumidifer going full time (drys out the basement).

Good to hear, I won't be doing any thru wall vents no need. Through the ceiling will look like heat runs so I don't think that will be an issue.

 

[BigFir]

Hey Chas0218, what kind of fish is that in your avatar? post up some pice in the fishing pics thread in the inglenook.

Sorry back to your regular programing......

 

[Chas0218]

Hey Chas0218, what kind of fish is that in your avatar? post up some pice in the fishing pics thread in the inglenook.

Sorry back to your regular programing......

That's a walleye, caught it in Lake Ontario a few years ago. I fish Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River (1000 islands area) often during the summer. That one weighed in at 11lbs. and change. Not the biggest I have ever caught but it's up there on the list. Probably one of the best eating freshwater fish in the Northeast. Fillets are flaky and firm with a sweet taste, similar to yellow perch.

 

[Chas0218]

Hey Chas0218, what kind of fish is that in your avatar? post up some pice in the fishing pics thread in the inglenook.

Sorry back to your regular programing......

Would you be able to take a picture from the front? Did you attach it to the stove in some way? Also where did you source the thermostat from and is it 110v or did you just hook it up in place of the blower switch or in series with the switch?