After stove heats up the fuse would blow. Disconnected igniter and have left it unplugged after first fuse replacement, pulled auger motors and bench tested them. checked augers and bearings they turn freely . checked fan motors to turn freely. stove will run 20-60 minutes till fuse blows. Checked wires as best as I can. Ran one item at a time unplugging others for a cycle no fire with no problems. Anymore suggestions?
Englander pellet stove 25-pdv fuse blowing
- Thread starter schultzy141
- Start date
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Ssyko
Minister of Fire
If you systematically run each component without a fire it has to be temp related. One of the components are shorting out as it gets hot. I would get some in line fuse holders and some 3-4amp fast blow fuses and put one in line with each component. And fire it up. The component that blows the in line fuse is your culprit.
Great idea! I would think you can make something real easily from an old power cord and an inline fuse holder. No need to run the full stove, just each motor individually.
Bill
These three items (Actually you will need two connectors so four items) is all you need to test all your motors. You can change the fuse amperage as needed.
Bill
![BI060-03[1].jpg](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/235/235288-397f422258d3cd228168e29e529ed759.jpg "BI060-03[1].jpg")
Bill
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Did you test the components with a fused test wire like bill suggested, or running the stove? If you dont have a fuse inline with all components your risking the control board.
I got the combustion fan and room fan to run on the in-line fuse. now the bottom auger, but ran out of time to finish. the bottom auger had been running for and hour so far. hope to work on when I get off work today.
Well The bottom auger did not blow in line fuse nor did the top auger. So all four major electrical parts did not blow 3 amp in-fuse, but the regular 6 amp fuse blew each time. the igniter has been disconnected the whole time. Any ideas on what to try next?
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Internal short on the board. You can take the board out and check for obvious electrical damage, traces popped, caps that have dome tops (should be flat).
Rneal55555
Member
Very carefully inspect all the wiring between the control board and the blowers igniter etc. To include the hopper lid switch. This assumes you put the inline fuse at the load end of the wiring. You might.want to try it at the control board end.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
You can unplug all the blowers and augers. Igniter. Thermister. Put in a new fuse, plug stove in check fuse. If it did not blow on plug in hit start. If it didnt blow that time. Your going to have to look through every wire in the harness for a short or chafing.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
I actually am amazed,if,by his posts,he has blown at least 5 fuses,and not ruined the control board.As has been done many times,OP may want to wire in fuses,to every "hot" lead out of the control box(permanent),and have smaller fuses in them.As some of the wiring also goes to vac switches and such,this is the only real protection,and testing.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Thats what i originally suggested. I will be amazed if the board still works. We shall see, fingers are crossed
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
Ya,ssyko,I do not think he understood,and was just using his jumper at each motor,defeats the purpose as does not always involve all the wiring.We shall see.
Rneal55555
Member
And if you end up having to replace the control board before installing the new one repeat the inline fuse test from the control board end of the wiring as per bills post above I think you'll need a male connector though.
I did misunderstand, but also it will run with fire for about an hour till it blows fuse. When I ran without fire they just kept going. I had the in-line fuse at board for both fans just not the augers. So I should have in line fuses for the fans and auger at the circuit board out to part? Is 3 amp good for in-line fuse? I will do the check on all the wiring first. thanks for all the input
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Yes i would put an inline fuse on every component from the power side comming off the board. 3amp is fine. Leave the igniter unplugged. This will allow you to run the stove and allow it to heat up and the 3amp fuse for the component it is in line with will blow long before the 5amp on the board or the board itself. Then you will know the culprit
I may have just found the chaffed wire, fingers crossed that will be it. Don't know how I missed it before, but it did look innocent from angle I was look at before. I will not be able to test till tomorrow though.
All back together and fire is going. Everything seems to working so far. Little warm of a day, the house is going to get hot, but have to test it.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
If everything is working as designed. You just got a goooood Christmas present, ive seen boards go bad with just a static discharge and you blew 4 or 5 fuses i am amazed and glad it worked out for ya. 
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
ericofmaine
Feeling the Heat
To agree with what Ssyko said, I had a similar problem on my 25-PDV, chafed wires for the exhaust motor right under the exhaust pipe. I ended up blowing the opto for the triac for the exhaust motor. Got around that by just making a jumper cable to plug directly into 110 VAC until I got it replaced.
Eric
Eric
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