Enviro convection blower not working properly - ** Update: RESOLVED **

[VTrider]

** Update: RESOLVED 10/29/11 **

Replaced circuit / control board (as well as the ignitor), on/off fan control works correctly along with all 5 variable speed controls - I am warm again , but it may be the burning hole in my pocket!





Okay, I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure this one out with no luck!

Pictured below is my 2002 Enviro Windsor which has kept me and my family warm and cozy for the last 7 or so seasons. As many on this board may know already, the convection fan speed setting is directly correlated with the heat level for this stove. Meaning basically, once the stove has completed it's ignition / startup sequence - manually adjusting the heat level up or down will directly increase or decrease the room blower. This has stopped functioning and I do not know why? I'm guessing it could be a faulty sensor or fan controller (which may be part of the control panel itself?) I just don't know.

Once the stove has started, the room blower use to kick right in (according to whatever heat level it was set on) and at that point you could control the fan speed by adjusting the heat level - this does not happen. The stove will operate fine for about 1/2hr - 45min. and then the convention blower will turn on full speed to cool the stove, this goes on for about 5 minutes and then the fan turns itself off again - this will go on indefinitely. The stove has a 160f sensor (as well as a 200f) in the air jacket, and what I think is happening is that the stove is getting to that temp, the sensor kicks in and turns on the fan - so I know that the fan does work.

The control board also has a manual on/off fan button as seen on page 6 of the Windsor owners manual (it is labeled #2) - this button no longer controls the fan.

(broken image removed)

I pretty much fully disassembled the entire stove and cleaned every nook and cranny - looks brand new now! I changed the gaskets, inspected wires, fuses, control board for shorts, etc - everything seems fine. I thought at one point the stove may have been somehow stuck in a high/low thermostat mode (never used this function) - so I tried every jumper configuration which didn't fix the situation (returned jumper to original setting). Not sure if it's relevant, but the ignitor hasn't been replaced in 6 or 7 years and works only half the time (I just don't think it's getting hot enough?).

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Sounds like your on/off fan button is in the off state for some reason. It was last placed in the off state and no longer works, or the control board thinks it is in the off state even when it wasn't or the switch is operated (bad control board).

It is also possible that the control panel has shifted in its mount such that the operation of the on/off portion on the panel no longer makes contact with the switch under the membrane (you can check for a loose panel by making sure the stove is off, cold, and unplugged) and seeing if the control panel wiggles when handled.

 

[VTrider]

It is also possible that the control panel has shifted in its mount such that the operation of the on/off portion on the panel no longer makes contact with the switch under the membrane (you can check for a loose panel by making sure the stove is off, cold, and unplugged) and seeing if the control panel wiggles when handled.

That did go through my mind as well, I did previously unattach the control board on many occasions checking if the actual switch making contact when the membrane is depressed - I can see the switch depress and I do hear that 'click'. I'm beginning to think that it is the actual switch and/or the control board, just hoping it's something else because the boards themselves are pricey and Windsor control boards are probably not the easiest things to track down.

 

[jtakeman]

Is this the anolog controll or the newer digital?

 

[VTrider]

Is this the anolog controll or the newer digital?

I'm not sure, but the stove is from the 1st or 2nd year production. No analog controls on the board itself like dials if that's what you are referring to? I'll be able to post a a photo tonight of the actual board along with revision #, etc.

 

[jtakeman]

Is this the anolog controller or the newer digital?

I'm not sure, but the stove is from the 1st or 2nd year production. No analog controls on the board itself like dials if that's what you are referring to? I'll be able to post a a photo tonight of the actual board along with revision #, etc.

Sounds like the digital board(I didn't think the Windsors had the anolog controllers-But had to ask just in case).



Service manual states testing the blower itself with a lamp cord connected. if the blower works fine then its the control panel. If the blower doesn't work its the motor itself. Does give much more than that.

Remove stove from power(unplug the cord). With an old lamp cord connect it to the convection blower using some quick connectors(found at most hardware and auto parts stores) that connect to the ones on the blower itself. Plug the cord in carefully as to not get zapped and make sure the lamp cord doesn't contact any part of the stove housing. Blower should run at full speed.

Hope this helps!

 

[VTrider]

Service manual states testing the blower itself with a lamp cord connected. if the blower works fine then its the control panel. If the blower doesn't work its the motor itself. Does give much more than that.

Hope this helps

Thanks Jay, I was going to try that at one point, but I do know that the convection does work - it will turn on at max speed when the 160f sensor trips and cools the stove down at which point it turns off again. Will rigging up the fan to an old lamp cord shed light on anything else though? Not that i'm looking for an excuse 'not' to electrocute myself!!

 

[jtakeman]

If the convection blower runs once the 160ºF snap disc closes(pretty much the same as running a direct feed to the blower)? It's most likely something with the control board. I doubt the switch failed on the board more liklely the triac opened up on the conv blower curcuit. Traic failure is more common than the switch failure AFAIK.

Snap a picture of the back side of the control board and post. We might be able to see some scourcing on the board??? Try to post a pic as big as the site allows. If you have solder skills and the board looks OK? You might be able to replace the triac, But its a bit tricky if you don't have decent solder skills.

Check with one of the site supporting stove parts peeps. They have been known to give discounts to fellow members on replacement parts.

 

[VTrider]

My guess is with the control board as well, I did follow that thread where you walked another member through replacing a bad triac (coincidentally it was also a Enviro Windsor) and was very impressed, I do appreciate your help is what I'm saying. My soldering skills are minimal, but i'm patient and fast learner. Anyway, here's a pic of the topside of the control board - I previously didn't notice any dis-colorization or scorch marks, but it's worth a second opinion here.

I didn't have the tool (square head) to remove the 4 screws to check the other side, but what I did do is peel back the plastic membrane and was able to see the other side of this circuit board - also looked normal. If needed I can snap a pic.

 

[jtakeman]

Can't view the pic, But if there is no scourcing it still can be a triac and the most common component to fail. The white blocks are opto isolators and they seem to stand up.

I'm a bit busy, But I'll see if I can trace out an old board and point you to the suspect triac when I get some free time.

 

[VTrider]

** Update: RESOLVED 10/29/11 **

Replaced circuit / control board (as well as the ignitor), on/off fan control works correctly along with all 5 variable speed controls - I am warm again smile, but it may be the burning hole in my pocket!