Enviro Maxx thermostat question

[Francois]

Hi,

My Maxx stove work fine so far, last problem is that it doesn't go higher that level 1 when on High/Low or Auto Off. I can see that the thermostat works because of the heating icon and I can hear the relay click, but nothing change on the Maxx.

Looks like I might have a problem with the thermostat wiring. It`s currently connected to terminal C and W1. I think it should be R and W1.

Anyone having a thermostat that is working?

The thermostat came with the Maxx, it`s a Robertshaw model RS2110C.

Thanks a lot

Francois

 

[Delta-T]

are you saying you are unable to select a higher heat output setting with the thermostat attached? When you have the machine on thermostat mode, you have to set the "default" setting on the control panel, and the thermostat tells the machine to go to low (in case of Hi/low setting) or to begin shutdown (Auto/off setting).

 

[Francois]

are you saying you are unable to select a higher heat output setting with the thermostat attached? When you have the machine on thermostat mode, you have to set the "default" setting on the control panel, and the thermostat tells the machine to go to low (in case of Hi/low setting) or to begin shutdown (Auto/off setting).

The Maxx is set to High/Low and at level 3.

The thermostat is at 22 and current temp is 19 and the heat icon is flashing but the Maxx still runs at level 1 (LOW), it doesn`t activate the HIGH status.

 

[Delta-T]

I see, then it is quite possible it is the thermostat being wired differently. I am not familiar with that thermostat. Most of the ones I've seen that come with the units are your basic Honeywell thermostats, with only 2 wires. Certainly couldn't hurt to swap them around and see what happens.

 

[Francois]

I see, then it is quite possible it is the thermostat being wired differently. I am not familiar with that thermostat. Most of the ones I've seen that come with the units are your basic Honeywell thermostats, with only 2 wires. Certainly couldn't hurt to swap them around and see what happens.

You're right. I will disconnect the thermostat from the stove and test between terminal C, R and W1 with an ohm meter and play with temperature settings and I'll let you know.

 

[VTrider]

My Maxx is on a thermostat (in signature) I belive it's a millavolt stat and quite simple - just two wires as well. Sounds like the wires might just need to be switched or something?

 

[Francois]

Ok, tested the thermostatand relay is between R and W1, but doesn't work anyway. I found an old revision (first edition) of the owner manual for the rs2110 and for two wire configuration, they put a jumper between C and R.
I put a service call yesterday, I'll wait for them to call back before making to many changes.

VTrider: Yes, the rs2110 is a millivolt stat too.

 

[Chitownhillbilly]

Ok, tested the thermostatand relay is between R and W1, but doesn't work anyway. I found an old revision (first edition) of the owner manual for the rs2110 and for two wire configuration, they put a jumper between C and R.
I put a service call yesterday, I'll wait for them to call back before making to many changes.

VTrider: Yes, the rs2110 is a millivolt stat too.

I'm not home, but my two wire for my Drolet Eco 65 has a jumper between two terminals on the Stat.

 

[Francois]

I'm not home, but my two wire for my Drolet Eco 65 has a jumper between two terminals on the Stat.

Got a call from installers. Apparently, there's a problem when using the Heat Distribution Kit (HDK). The thermostat pass through a sensor in the kit and the sensor is too sensitive, so it's always open except at cold start. So I have to bypass the sensor and connect the thermostat directly to the control board as per Maxx installation instruction and discard HDK instructions.

So far, three sensors in the HDK and one left connected. If it work, I'll have to call the HDK manufacturer the get some explainations, if it doesn't work, I will call them anyway.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks

 

[Lake Girl]

Wondering if that HDK is used for other stoves that don't have the same level of precautions with sensors ... could be the company is trying to limit it's potential liability if something fails. Either the manufacturer of the stove or of the HDK (or both) should have a revised installation procedure on their website... Hope your patience is hanging in there

Edit: Just realized that the manufacturer of both is Sherwood Industries, Vancouver ...

 

[Francois]

It's working, Disabled the sensor and connected thermostat directly to control board.

The HDK installation diagram don't even use a thermostat, it's using a 175F cut-off. Seriously? 175? Water don't even boil at that temperature.

It might take some time, but I will call them to get some explainations. It's ok to play safe, but not that much.

 

[VTrider]

I'm glad you got it working again! This thread will prove useful for future HDK installations with an Enviro Maxx.

 

[smwilliamson]

Got a call from installers. Apparently, there's a problem when using the Heat Distribution Kit (HDK). The thermostat pass through a sensor in the kit and the sensor is too sensitive, so it's always open except at cold start. So I have to bypass the sensor and connect the thermostat directly to the control board as per Maxx installation instruction and discard HDK instructions.

So far, three sensors in the HDK and one left connected. If it work, I'll have to call the HDK manufacturer the get some explainations, if it doesn't work, I will call them anyway.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks

I thinkers issue is that the MAXx can really kick out some heat and the sensors are there to kick the stove from it's call to it's maintenance burn mode (high to low) if the plenum gets too hot. I agree, it doesn't work the way they wired it.

About your thermostat... Millivolt heat only thermostats just use the r and w connections. C is for a common return to power the display on the tstat when the unit is not calling for heat.

 

[batchman]

So far, three sensors in the HDK and one left connected.

Hi Francois, I was finding your experience very interesting since my Maxx HDK (still not all the way out of the shipping box - long story) is a prior version with only one added sensor, which I'm instructed vaguely where to drill to install, with no advice about resulting shavings inside the unit. I was thinking it's changed a lot in a year and maybe I should campaign for the new revision, but sounds like maybe I should get only the bracket!

Good luck and please keep us posted,
- Jeff

 

[Francois]

I thinkers issue is that the MAXx can really kick out some heat and the sensors are there to kick the stove from it's call to it's maintenance burn mode (high to low) if the plenum gets too hot. I agree, it doesn't work the way they wired it.

About your thermostat... Millivolt heat only thermostats just use the r and w connections. C is for a common return to power the display on the tstat when the unit is not calling for heat.

Yeah, I finally figured that out while playing with my ohm-meter and the thermostat.

 

[Francois]

Hi Francois, I was finding your experience very interesting since my Maxx HDK (still not all the way out of the shipping box - long story) is a prior version with only one added sensor, which I'm instructed vaguely where to drill to install, with no advice about resulting shavings inside the unit. I was thinking it's changed a lot in a year and maybe I should campaign for the new revision, but sounds like maybe I should get only the bracket!

Good luck and please keep us posted,
- Jeff

For how long have you the HDK? Prior version, how old? Is it original from Sherwood/Enviro/Intertek or compatible?

 

[batchman]

For how long have you the HDK? Prior version, how old? Is it original from Sherwood/Enviro/Intertek or compatible?

Bought it with my stove, from the Enviro dealer, 12 months ago. Has taken me longer than planned - since my install winds up with piping in 3 directions (Exhaust, OAK, ducting) it's important to get the stove placement "just right", and in fact I'm changing my exhaust slightly for this season so it'll be another step or two before I get to the ducting.

Speaking of older vs newer versions, does your venting bring double-wall pipe right to the adapter? If so, did your rear lower cover fit? I think my stove has suffered from the revision from 3" to 4" vent - a steel 3" intake pipe does not quite clear the auger motor fan and the lower cover doesn't stand a prayer of clearing my double wall vent pipe.

Best,
- Jeff

 

[Francois]

Speaking of older vs newer versions, does your venting bring double-wall pipe right to the adapter? If so, did your rear lower cover fit? I think my stove has suffered from the revision from 3" to 4" vent - a steel 3" intake pipe does not quite clear the auger motor fan and the lower cover doesn't stand a prayer of clearing my double wall vent pipe.

Best,
- Jeff

Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your question.
I'm currently using a 4" pipe for the exhaust which the exterior wall is galvanised and the inner wall is stainless.
I'm not using the 3" fresh air intake since my house is drafty enough.
With the HDK came 20 foots of insulated flexible conduit. The HDK must have two sections of 4" rigid pipe (about 3 foots long) installed inside prior to the duct shield installation for easier ducting later.

When you talk about double-wall pipe, are talking about the same thing I used for the exhaust?

I have attached a picture from the Maxx manual and it's exactly what I have, a 3" inlet and a 4" exhaust. Pipes shouldn't get in the way of the auger motor.

 

[batchman]

Referring to your picture:

For my fresh air I used 3" steel pipe. It hit hard on the fan for the auger motor, because this stove was originally designed for 2". I am sure most people use flex and just dimple it where it passes by the auger motor fan. Since I need this pipe to be firmly supported at this end I had to use steel, so I had to dimple it - a somewhat painful surprise. By the way I found that even with the intake fully piped to the outside there is still a lot of inside air finding its' way to the firebox - I think it's from the combustion (aquarium) pump.

For my vent (exhaust), I used 4" double wall pipe (galvi over stainless) just as you did. My lower cover, with the louvers, does not fit due to the outside diameter of the double-wall pipe. Again this is presumably due to this stove originally being designed for 3" vent. My question is whether your rear lower cover, with the louvers, fits with your double-wall vent pipe - does it have a notch in it to clear the vent pipe? I have put screening all around the inside of the back covers to try and keep cat hair out out of the convection blower. The screening is not a big deal but the double sided high temperature tape was pretty expensive, it was really annoying to find this problem.

My hope is that a new cover that actually fits may be available now.

Thanks and regards,
- Jeff

 

[Francois]

Ok, I see your point. I'll take a look at the air intake this weekend while it will be cold for my weekly cleanup. I'll open the lower back section and check for proper spacing for the duct. The only thing I can confirm is that the version I have work perfectly with double-wall 4 inch pipes.

A new cover may be the solution for you. Mine as a knock out for the 3" intake. As for the inside air problem in the firebox, did you check your door gasket?

I'll post my finding during the weekend.

 

[Francois]

After looking at the back panel, I have about 5/8 inch between my 4" duct and the auger. As for the intake, it's a bit less, It would be around 1/4" to 3/8" gap, but there's no way the pipe would touch the auger.

The only thing that got in the auger fan was the thermostat cable, so I moved it.

 

[Sal.marin]

Does the EnviroMaxx come with a thermostat? Or it’s ian addition? I understand the remote thermostat is an addition but confused on the unit itself