EPA stove operation

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BrownT10

Burning Hunk
Jun 1, 2021
187
Massachusetts
I still need to setup the Osburn 3300 stove but am curious about the operation of this stove or newer non-cat stoves in general as I am sure the operation is quite different than my 40 year old defiant. I know there are lots of variables, but once the stove is lit and up to temp, it appears from research that the firebox is loaded fully upon a reload. Just looking for some general guidance as a modern stove is new technology to me. What are procedures for cold start vs hot loads and do you fill the firebox full? What are folks procedured with their stove and setup?
 
I still need to setup the Osburn 3300 stove but am curious about the operation of this stove or newer non-cat stoves in general as I am sure the operation is quite different than my 40 year old defiant. I know there are lots of variables, but once the stove is lit and up to temp, it appears from research that the firebox is loaded fully upon a reload. Just looking for some general guidance as a modern stove is new technology to me. What are procedures for cold start vs hot loads and do you fill the firebox full? What are folks procedured with their stove and setup?
Basically get it to temp as quick as you can without overshooting the high temp. On a cold start some like to start a small fire first others like a top down fire. I just load some kindling and then fill the stove with wood. Light it with a torch and wait for it to get about 3/4 of the way to the temp I want then start shutting the air back. I do it in two steps half way then all of the way.

Loading on a coal bed is similar just no need to light it.

Depending on your setup you may need to leave the door cracked open for a while at the start.
 
Not your stove but I like the top down burn. Throws heat rather quickly and lasts a long time.
 
Thanks for the good info, hope to hear more. Are you taking specifically about the Osburn 3300 Bad LP? I love it if is heats up quick and lasts a long time? Those are two totally different scenarios then the cast defiant I was running!
 
Thanks for the good info, hope to hear more. Are you taking specifically about the Osburn 3300 Bad LP? I love it if is heats up quick and lasts a long time? Those are two totally different scenarios then the cast defiant I was running!
No he said it wasn't your stove. But pretty much all tube stoves run about the same.
 
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Gotcha, read too quick. I have not done a top down start but intend to give it a shot. Is that the preferred method for tube stoves?
 
That (top down) has seen quite some discussion on this forum. Some (including me) say it heats up the secondary burn (or cat) faster because flames are licking it immediately. There is also the claim that it smokes less on start up.

Many manuals nowadays suggest to do this, as well as environmentally oriented advice.

I'd say to give it a try. It can't hurt and if it works so much the better, if only because you don't have to open again for your first load after ignition because there is at least half a load already in there.
 
Makes sense, will certainly give it a shot. Upon starting a successful top down fire with half a load, approximately how long until loading a full firebox for a long burn? Obviously, the stove and flue need to be up to temperature, but trying to understand the general timing. I am used to warming the defiant and flue for 45 to 60 minutes upon closing the damper and shutting down the air some. I image the steel stoves will be up to temp quicker than this. I hope..
 
Makes sense, will certainly give it a shot. Upon starting a successful top down fire with half a load, approximately how long until loading a full firebox for a long burn? Obviously, the stove and flue need to be up to temperature, but trying to understand the general timing. I am used to warming the defiant and flue for 45 to 60 minutes upon closing the damper and shutting down the air some. I image the steel stoves will be up to temp quicker than this. I hope..

That depends too much on how much kindling, full splits, and in between sized stuff you start with, and how big your firebox is. Some experience with the actual stove you have is needed - I don't have that unfortunately.
 
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I posted this thread to help folks see a non-cat startup along. Maybe it will be helpful.
 
I've posted this here before. Not saying my way is necessarily the best way, but it works for me. I think that's kind of the point with these stoves, finding a method that suits your stove and what you want it to do. My stove is an Osburn Matrix, which is similar (yet smaller) than your 3300.

 
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I’ve found that having some very small kindling pieces (preferably softwood) up top for a top down fire is very helpful. With all hardwood and larger size kindling, I imagine it would take a while for things to get going. Really, IMO, the most important thing is that the wood is dry.
 
I am a big fan of the top down start up. Seems easier and quicker for start up for me. If you don't have thermometers already, grab a couple, very helpful to know where your stove is at temp wise.
 
Fill it to the roof and burn it. It’s only as complicated as you want it to be. With dry wood it’s hard to screw it up.

I prefer kindling on the bottom and filling to the roof with firewood. Then poke a torch in there to start it.
 
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The first thing you have to do with the 3300 is look under the stove where the air control is and move it to the closed position and see how far it goes past the closed position.it should stop right at the closed position but it goes way past .
 
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I like doing a random lay on cold starts, let it go for a while to bring the stove up to temp / build a coal bed, on hot reloads I do calculated fills, meaning that I will lay a whole bunch of splits in front of the stove, open the door and load everything up, tightly packing them and trying to fill the whole box.
 
I pack the stove but no kindling. Smaller splits on top, full size splits on the bottom and 3 or 4 pieces of fat wood under the top. Light and let it get a good start that turn it back a little.