Feeding Thin Gasline Into Weed Wacker?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

TruePatriot

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Feb 19, 2007
156
Hey all,

I have an O.P.E. question. I have a 32cc/18” cut, Craftsman weedwacker that actually doesn’t seem half bad. I picked it on the curb, replaced the aftermarket “swizzle stick cutter” (“Weed Thrasher,” I think it was called), lubed the shaft, and it seemed ready to go, as it fired right up, idled well, etc…. It’s got the groovy, adjustable handlebar with “motorcycle” grip and hardware to hang it from a strap, too.

However, the gas line immediately failed, between the tank and carb. It’s VERY slim line, less than 1/8” O.D., and I had to order it from Sears, as the local mower shop couldn’t get.

Unbelievably, to me, the line does not hook to a nipple on the tank; rather, it passes through a boss, (a simple hole, through a molded collar) inside the tank, and that’s it. The outside of the tank is just a flush surface-the “collar” is formed on the inside of the tank. It’s an “interference fit,” if you will, between the hose and the hole or collar, and the only way it doesn’t leak is that the I.D. of the hole into the tank is perhaps a 1/64” (didn’t measure it) smaller than the O.D. of the hose. In other words, the old hose had a slight “cinch” were it had been compressed by the hole in the tank wall.

So, how do you feed the soft, pliable hose through the small hole? Given the boss or collar inside the tank, there’s perhaps a ¼” deep hole it must be pushed through.

I have not tried to take the tank off (it appears it does separate, in some way, from the body of the machine, but I can’t tell from the parts blowup if you actually can gain access to the interior of the tank, but I’d tend to doubt it.) And anyway, since I have access to the hole from the outside, and can only push the hose in less than 1/8”, I don’t think pushing from the inside-side of the hole would help anyway.

I tried the following:

1. Oil on hose/hole.
2. Various wires through hose, to stiffen it.
3. Putting the hose in the freezer for a couple of hours. (This didn’t stiffen it up all that much, and I’m sure my fingers warmed it up immediately).

Is there a trick to this?

Thanks in advance,

Peter
 
Hey Peter,

Actually, a lot of brands use this type of system to pass fuel line through the tank walls. Usually, it just passes through a grommet without any fittings. It's important to have THE correct size line. If you don't, it will either leak or be impossible to get in. Then, I usually lube it up well with WD-40 and use some small, thin needle nose pliers, like my hemostats, to push it into the hole. Grab the line about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in from the end. You may need to massage and work the line into the hole to start with a small screwdriver or pick, but it will go in. Once the whole circumference of the end of the line is in, just work it into the tank in 1/8 inch intervals with the pliers. Once you are able to grab it from inside the tank (hook it with a piece of wire and then grab it with your same hemostats) you can lube it again and pull it to the desired length. It's a royal pain in the rear but it is possible.
 
cmonSTART,

I used 3:1 Oil, and some neat, small, curved needlenose pliers that provided a good grip, and tried to do as you suggest, here:

[/It’s important to have THE correct size line. If you don’t, it will either leak or be impossible to get in. Then, I usually lube it up well with WD-40 and use some small, thin needle nose pliers, like my hemostats, to push it into the hole. Grab the line about 1/8 to 1/4 inch in from the end. You may need to massage and work the line into the hole to start with a small screwdriver or pick, but it will go in. Once the whole circumference of the end of the line is in, just work it into the tank in 1/8 inch intervals with the pliers. Once you are able to grab it from inside the tank (hook it with a piece of wire and then grab it with your same hemostats) you can lube it again and pull it to the desired length. It’s a royal pain in the rear but it is possible.

I did order the hose right from Sears, for this model number of machine, so it should be correct, and looks like the same size as the old stuff, so we'll see. I do have a hemostat, and will try that, as well--good ideas!

It was also suggested that I cut an inch-long taper on the line, feed the small ends through and gradually pull it until the full diameter is coming through.

I also saw this idea, and thought it had possibilities:

Question
I saw a question asked about a Sears Model 358.798260 fuel filter, this is about a Model 358.797260 32CC fuel line. The line was hardened and cracked and had to be replaced. One problem the fuel line is fed through the bottom of the tank and the hole is the same diameter as the fuel line to stop leakage, trying to feed the line through the hole only expands the fuel line making impossible to get it into the tank. I tryed to freeze the end of the hose with no success. If I could get a way to grab the line from inside the tank it might help. Can you help?

Answer
A piece of steel hobby wire from a hobby store works great. Fold the wire in half to form a "v". Insert the "v" through the fuel tank.

Cut a taper on the engine of the fuel line. Insert the taper in the "v" on the wire and pull the line through the tank.

Let me know if this helps.
Eric
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Source: (broken link removed)
________________________________________


I should get a chance Sunday night to these things...I'll definitely report back.

Thanks again.
 
cmonSTART,

Thanks for your suggestions--sorry this took so long.

I was all set to do your "V-wire" method, and believe it would have worked nicely, but I cut an inch-long taper in the hose, so I had two, thin tails, as was discussed, and it worked like a charm!

Thanks again, however--that "V-Wire" method is going to come in handy in the future, I'm sure.

Be well,

TruePatriot
 
Status
Not open for further replies.