Filing your chain by hand

[jj3500]

How many of you guys do this? I just bought one of those canvas kits from Stihl. Round file with guide attached to it, flat file and another guide for rake depth(i think).
I just got done filing my 20" chain. Its dark out already here. Have to wait till Monday A.M. to fire it up....see how it goes or how I did rather. The chisels are extremely sharp.

 

[LLigetfa]

I file freehand without the aid of guides.

 

[joshlaugh]

I use a guide when I sharpen my chains at home but when I file in the field I do it free hand.

 

[Jamess67]

Have used both. Not thrilled with either one. Both work.

 

[BrotherBart]

I use a guide. Always have. Couldn't figure out why the big Poulan was cutting circles in a 36" tree the other day. I think I figured it out. From now on I will wear my glasses and that should help me use the right angle mark on the backside of the chain. :red:

Outside of that, hand filing is the only way to go. Bought one of those freaking grinders two years ago and after two goes it sits there attached to the bench collecting dust.

 

[madrone]

Hand. The guide holder is too clunky and obscures my view.

 

[jebatty]

I use the Pferd hand filer. Do about 5 hand filings, then the bench sharpener. I have about 10 chains that I use until all need to be sharpened on the bench sharpener, then all are sharpened with the same setting so I don't have to reset the sharpener for each chain. Might waste a little chain, but saves a lot of time - goes really fast.

 

[John_M]

While in the field I sharpen freehand without a guide or clamp. While in the shop I file freehand with a guide (for the correct angle) and no clamp. In both cases my left thumb and/or trigger finger are the clamps. I always wear gloves while sharpening. Start filing at the colored link (Stihl chain) showing whether the chain is "safety" or "hazardous" type. Using this starting method I also know where to stop. Previously I marked the top of the starting cutter with a red magic marker to know where to stop sharpening. Am very happy with the results using this method.

Best Wishes,

John_M

 

[LLigetfa]

All my chains have an odd pair of cutters where the loop was closed so that is a natural starting/ending place. No need for a Sharpie to mark a starting/ending place.

 

[savageactor7]

Back in the bronze age I started out using the guide and thought nothing of it till one of my buddies talked me out of using it. imo it's more efficient without the guide cause I can more easily rotate the file between my thumb and forefingers while drawing it across the tooth. And I'm always rotating up to the corners of the tooth...the CORNERS do 95% of the cutting.

Unless I ding up the Oregon chain on rocks/metal all it take is one correct draw across the teeth and I'm golden. Just say'en... I use a sharpie to fully darken a link before starting.

With hand filing only 3 things can go wrong...chain is too sharp and has no legs, or chain cuts down and to the left or right. If it cuts down and to the right just take a few more swipes of the left hand cutters. By the 10th time you do it you'll figure it out...the owners manual explains it all in detail.

Proper ground control with your feet is important when filing. Ideally you want to be in the same position for every tooth. Your chains will last a very long time if you learn to hand file.

 

[Gooserider]

Hand file the cutters free-hand, though my file handle does have angled flats on it that I use as a double check that my angle is right (the flat will make full contact with the bar at the end of the stroke if it's correct)

Use a raker guage to take down the rakers.

The grinder is used only if I do a serious "Metal / rock job" on the chain and need to reshape the cutters...

Gooserider

 

[Flatbedford]

I've been hand filing freehand for about 12 years now. As long as I don't let the chain get too dull, I can keep it nice. I usually give the chain a quickie each time I fill with gas, sometimes every other refill. I can tell when its worth the time to stop and clean up the chain. I bought a used MS 180 a few months ago. I couldn't get that chain to cut no matter how many times I hand filed it. I gave in and spent the $17 on a new one. I should be able to keep it nice for a long time by hand.

 

[f3cbboy]

i agree with flatbedford - as long as the chain does not get too dull - no problem filing by hand and keeping the chanin cutting well. I file every other time i fill up and have no problems at all.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I file freehand without the aid of guides.

x2

 

[firefighterjake]

I bought and used a Husky widgit that sits on the chain to give you the perfect angle for a long time . . . but in truth I find that I can get as sharp a chain in a much faster time filing by hand and eye . . . doesn't take very long either. What I did discover however is having a good, sharp file (vs. a worn file) is crucial as I was filing last Fall with a dull file and not getting very far, very fast until my brother showed me the error of my ways (i.e. if you're not getting some metal filings you're not really sharpening your chain) . . . that and I discovered replacing a worn bar with a new bar can make a big difference as well.

 

[wendell]

I file by hand with a guide and I have a few additional questions. 1. How long does a file last and 2. When the bar is pointing to the left I have no problem getting a good bite but when the bar is pointing to the right, I have a really hard time getting a smooth even stroke and often when I do, it seems like the file is just sliding over the cutter and not doing anything. Any suggestions?

To compensate, I take 2 strokes left and 3 strokes right but know I am not getting my chain as sharp as I would like.

 

[fyrwoodguy]

I file freehand without the aid of guides.

x2

x3

 

[Gooserider]

I file by hand with a guide and I have a few additional questions. 1. How long does a file last and

You will get a lot of different answers on that one, I've seen responses ranging from less than a half dozen sharpennings to "one file is good for one chain" Seems like it might vary by the combination of file brand and chain brand, but that is very inconsistent - the same combo that one poster swears by, the next will swear AT...

I'm currently using Oregon chains and Windsor files, as Amicks had a good sale on them, and it looks like I'm getting about a dozen or so sharpenings out of a file (I touch up after every tank of gas) As one of the previous posters said, if the file isn't producing a decent amount of filings, it isn't working... I've found a couple of things that seem to help extend the file life...

1. Periodically rotate the file slightly in the holder - this gets a new set of cutting teeth into the action.

2. Occasionally go over the file with a wire brush, and wipe it down frequently with a rag (mostly go across the file so you parallel the way the teeth are ground) to keep the amount of crud building up in the teeth to a minimum.

3. Some users think periodically dipping the file in bar oil or spraying it w/ WD 40 or other such potion helps, I haven't really decided.

4. Some users report that one can effectively renew a files cutting edge once or twice by soaking it in white vinegar for a few hours to over night... Haven't tried this one yet myself, as I have a bunch of new files on hand...

2. When the bar is pointing to the left I have no problem getting a good bite but when the bar is pointing to the right, I have a really hard time getting a smooth even stroke and often when I do, it seems like the file is just sliding over the cutter and not doing anything. Any suggestions?

To compensate, I take 2 strokes left and 3 strokes right but know I am not getting my chain as sharp as I would like.

I think there are really only two things you can do...

1. Practice, Practice, Practice....

2. Try different positions for yourself and the saw to find what works best for you... I tend to setup so that the saw is pointing away from me, and hold the engine steady between my chest and arm of the hand that is holding the bar and chain steady, while filing with the other hand, swapping sides for the two sets of cutters, but I'm relatively ambidextrous... I don't actually count strokes, instead I go by the feel of the way the file is cutting and the appearance of the tooth...

Gooserider

 

[LLigetfa]

2. When the bar is pointing to the left I have no problem getting a good bite but when the bar is pointing to the right, I have a really hard time getting a smooth even stroke and often when I do, it seems like the file is just sliding over the cutter and not doing anything. Any suggestions?

When the bar points to the right are you on the right side of it? Do you push the file away from the saw?

I find filing from the right side to be easier than filing from the left. When you file from the left, the powerhead is between you and the bar if you push the file away from the saw.

 

[jj3500]

Been experimenting around...I've a good hang of it now.

 

[wendell]

2. When the bar is pointing to the left I have no problem getting a good bite but when the bar is pointing to the right, I have a really hard time getting a smooth even stroke and often when I do, it seems like the file is just sliding over the cutter and not doing anything. Any suggestions?

When the bar points to the right are you on the right side of it? Do you push the file away from the saw?

I find filing from the right side to be easier than filing from the left. When you file from the left, the powerhead is between you and the bar if you push the file away from the saw.

I stand with the power head in front of me, angle my body either 25 or 30 degrees, depending on the chain (Oregon or Woodland Pro, respectively) so my hip is touching the powerhead, hold the bar with my left hand and file with my right.

So, yes, when the bar is to the right, I am on the right side and pushing away and when the bar is to the left I am on the left and pushing away.

 

[wendell]

I file by hand with a guide and I have a few additional questions. 1. How long does a file last and

You will get a lot of different answers on that one, I've seen responses ranging from less than a half dozen sharpennings to "one file is good for one chain" Seems like it might vary by the combination of file brand and chain brand, but that is very inconsistent - the same combo that one poster swears by, the next will swear AT...

I'm currently using Oregon chains and Windsor files, as Amicks had a good sale on them, and it looks like I'm getting about a dozen or so sharpenings out of a file (I touch up after every tank of gas) As one of the previous posters said, if the file isn't producing a decent amount of filings, it isn't working... I've found a couple of things that seem to help extend the file life...

1. Periodically rotate the file slightly in the holder - this gets a new set of cutting teeth into the action.

2. Occasionally go over the file with a wire brush, and wipe it down frequently with a rag (mostly go across the file so you parallel the way the teeth are ground) to keep the amount of crud building up in the teeth to a minimum.

3. Some users think periodically dipping the file in bar oil or spraying it w/ WD 40 or other such potion helps, I haven't really decided.

4. Some users report that one can effectively renew a files cutting edge once or twice by soaking it in white vinegar for a few hours to over night... Haven't tried this one yet myself, as I have a bunch of new files on hand...

2. When the bar is pointing to the left I have no problem getting a good bite but when the bar is pointing to the right, I have a really hard time getting a smooth even stroke and often when I do, it seems like the file is just sliding over the cutter and not doing anything. Any suggestions?

To compensate, I take 2 strokes left and 3 strokes right but know I am not getting my chain as sharp as I would like.

I think there are really only two things you can do...

1. Practice, Practice, Practice....

2. Try different positions for yourself and the saw to find what works best for you... I tend to setup so that the saw is pointing away from me, and hold the engine steady between my chest and arm of the hand that is holding the bar and chain steady, while filing with the other hand, swapping sides for the two sets of cutters, but I'm relatively ambidextrous... I don't actually count strokes, instead I go by the feel of the way the file is cutting and the appearance of the tooth...

Gooserider

Thanks! It may be time for some new files.

I was cutting up some pine and maple this afternoon and sharpened before I started and did cut very well for the first 20 minutes but the cutting degraded pretty quickly so I will keep practicing!

 

[Backroads]

I file by freehand because I'm too lazy to use the guide. It's how I was taught.

 

[LLigetfa]

I file by freehand because I'm too lazy to use the guide. It's how I was taught.

IKWYM

I tried teaching my father how to file but alas he never did learn so I bought him one of those clamp on filing guides. The guide was tedious to setup and he couldn't/wouldn't learn how to do that either. He would just buy more chains instead. Every time I visited him, I had to fix one or both of his saws and hand file a bunch of chains for him. I never bothered to use the guide I bought him since it was more of a pain to setup than it was worth.

I sure could have used a grinder back in those days. Dad was real hard on the chains. He'd let them get so dull that they would get hot and then he'd run them into the wet ground and they would temper. The teeth were so mangled and so hard that it would put a shine on the file as it skipped along the tooth.

 

[jj3500]

I'd file the chain right before I start cutting. But it seems it gets dull real quick. Like very quick. The first dozen or so cuts, it goes like a hot knife through butter. Then it dramatically labors after that. Is this typical? Or is there still something I'm doing wrong?

Should I go and take off more on the chisels with the round file? Not sure what to do...other than sharpening every 15 mins. (seems a little ridiculous).

Thanks