finally fired up the Oslo for the first time!

[yaker57]

Sweet Ya I had friend call and need My help on his stove pipe slipping down from ceiling mount in the house and panicking , of course, it was a Cat stove and only by the Grace of God didn't start any fire Helped push back into place and was adding angle brackets so wont fall again when Wife called and said the Smoke Alarms going crazy and house full of smoke and 300 was now 375! So i ran home made sure Oslo was shutdown and get fans on it to cool down a little took smoke alarm outside and opened all doors Called Friend and He had his fixed, My Oslo holding 300 and now letting cool back down for final firing That Secondary is Super Cool, gotta try videoing some of that

 

[Bub381]

630? That isn't going easy.lol Well sounds like ye olde stove held up.Don't take er high end and miss it by 100 degrees.i'll have all my teeth gritted off.Like i said,these guys know more about it than i do.it was just my opinion.Good luck.

 

[cdirks]

It got a little hotter than I wanted it to, but doing a little research here I found that 660 or 670 shouldn't hurt it. It was fired to about 570 the night before. Secondaries lit up very nicely at that point and window started to clear with the airwash system. Stove made a few sounds like when cast heats up but everything seems fine. I posted that the house didn't get as smokey this time but after I posted it got smokier. Hit a new high and cured some more paint I guess. I guess I'm still learning but the drift I've caught here is that I havn't hurt the stove either that or I'm lucky at this point Back to the research done here someone on a previous thread took there stove up to 700 to get rid of the last bit of paint smell. I don't want to get to that point yet. If the stove top would have gotten much hotter I would have stuffed my tin foil ball in the secondary air intake and killed the secondaries.

 

[yaker57]

Wow , I am Impressed, after Burning the VC forever, I Now know I was wasting effort on it! I finished last burn to 400 about 1am last nite. Let it cool down and restart and finally shut air @ 3am, it was pushin 550! Figured I wake up cold and restoke it, well @ 29 degrees, it kept all the house toasty, and house North side uninsulated! This is a Major change for this ole house, I used stand rite next to VC to get warm, this we are 6ft away @ 400 degrees and Amazed It is Very Needy for Air, even if I add 6in log on top of hot coals , it will need extra air, or I need to add a lot of kindling to allow the ignition of the larger pieces! It has a learning curve for Me on that part I Love the Oslo, but would like the air induction to be more just for initial fires, and I understand too much air warps things, but even @ that I will sell Folks on the Oslo It will burn 24/7 and if the -18 degrees comes back this winter like last year, Lord willin we will be more that ready for it Also had 1/4 ashs in the pan and that is Sweet as reburn is taking care of a lot of them If You are in Mo. Call Jeff Shafferkoetter at MIS Fireplace LLC in Ozark Mo. I will deal with no one but Him on this stove and He will do all He can to Please You 417-840-1789 is His Number and tell Him Darell told Ya about Him Thanks for All the Help, this site is Informative

 

[Bub381]

Ya you're ready now.let er rip.On my Rangeley top end is 700 so they must be about the same. 500 i think is my hottest so far,it gets so darned hot in here.It's a 10' x 13' stove room so i have to move alot of air.It gets to 90 in there,all i can do,all rooms are small.I believe you have a bigger stove,not sure.Be glad to be able to just look at the fire and know just what to adjust it to and be comfortable.Now the fun begins.Seems as though i can't get enough fans.I am blowing cold air into the stove room and on the other end of the stove room the bathroom hooks on and i have a fan there blowing away from the stove room,kinda a continuous flow right off into the living room.It helps but we'll see how it goes in colder weather.

 

[logger]

It is Very Needy for Air, even if I add 6in log on top of hot coals , it will need extra air, or I need to add a lot of kindling to allow the ignition of the larger pieces!

Just dont feed it too much air, or most of your heat will be going out the chimney. These stoves are meant to get up to high temps, then be shut down most of the way to keep heat in the stove and house.

 

[yaker57]

Bub, sounds like a Great Problem to have The Oslo is bigger and would have liked the Firelite but $ and size on Hearth came into play. Everyone coming over are Very Impressed with the Beauty and Heat of the Oslo I do know that they have made the air induction small IMO! It forces you to open one of the doors to get intial air to get fire going! Can anyone point Me/Us to a site that shows Diagram of the Oslo Air Path? I know comes from bottom @ the Back and goes up, to the tubing? Also like to understand more of how the stoves is supposed to work? Also how the Handle to open the air , is there a diagram of how that looks and where it goes into the stove as trying to figure how it works? I am burning 24/7 and have for 30yrs on other stoves but have never had a baffle type stove I do Appreciate the wooden handles on the doors as had metal on other stoves before Thanks for the Help

 

[Bub381]

Logger,thanks.I do keep her air turned down,just finding that sweet spot.Problem with this stove is she creosotes up in lower window corners.I can live with that.Yaker57,on Jotul.com they show my stoves diagram of how primary,secondary airs flow and how they exit the stove.Tell me if ya find the info on yours.Just clicked on my stove and then scrolled to bottom of page and downloaded the diagram.

 

[yaker57]

Thanks Bub, got it to come up Still would like to see a diagram sideways of the Oslo showing the airflow Your Fiskar 28, is it the Pro for splitting? I split last winter with the 28 axe and was Wowed by the spltting action it did for me, want to get the Pro as enjoy spltting by hand Thanks

 

[cdirks]

yaker57. Hey what kind of wood do you have access to in south central ks where you live? Just curious as you are talking about splitting by hand. About all i have access to is chinese elm which would be impossible to split by hand when green. I can split it by hand sometimes if it is dry and the grains are straight. I'm afraid I'm going to run out of wood this year. Its not an emergency if I do as I have a new 95% efficient central air furnace as well. I'm a wood burner purely by choice. Just got the flu pipe thermometer installed yesterday.

 

[yaker57]

cdirks, Hedge also called Osage Orange! Goverment planted them along edges of fields in dutbowl days to hold the soil in the fileds and now we cut them for firewood They are Super Hard and Longer they are dead as in used for fence post , the Harder they get! Build a Bloody Hot Fire ! Cant amagine not having them to burn! Feel Blessed as I read guys East and West dont have Quality wood and yet they are able to still burn what they have and enjoy it I think I learned about the Pro Fiskar Splitting by Hand on You Tube, it was cold out and believe it was walnut that I had gotten, I had the Fiskar Axe, I got it and was again Wowed that it was Not like My Splitting with any axe ever I had used, it was Incredible, even saw on You Tube how guys puting tires around the wood , when splitting it keeps them together, even a Bungy cord around Logs is what I did and kept log split pieces together so you dont have to chase them But want to get the Pro Fiskar Splitting Axe as the have the Head shaped just for that splitting! But I have Never seen such an Incredible axe as the Fiskar, I chopped a whole huge limb last year with it , they are Super Sharp, even with the dings in the blade , Extremly Sharp

 

[begreen]

Osage Orange is wood burner's gold. Lots of heat in that wood. You are a lucky fellow.