Just split 2pcs of wood... moisture meter was 20% and 24%
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Ok, I'm not sitting in the semi anymore. Looking at the installation instructions I'm wondering if not having the chimney lined is part of your problem. The masonary is absorbing too much heat not allowing it to warm properly.
How often is your circulation blower running? When it runs how long it is running?
I can tell you letting this furnace cool off between loading, I'm not burning mine every third day when I work my 24 hr shift after loading it at 5am I go to work, is a pain in the ass. The fire box has to be extremely hot to operate as designed. The next morning when I get home at 7:30 it still has enough coals in it to get it burning but, in order to warm the house 2 or 3 degrees it uses a lot of wood to get the fire box heated up again.
To give you an idea how hot the fire box is I burn the hair off my hands loading it without gloves between full loads. This does not happen until the second full load. My wood lights, almost completely, within 10-15 seconds of placing it after I bank the coals to the sides. Flash point of wood is 570 degrees roughly depending on species and it burns completely, cleanly, at its hottest around 1100 degrees and forcing air in will raise those temps. In order to get the cleanest burn those are the temps your going to need to have. I was told by firechief they put the second rivet in the blower because guys were opening the slide so much they were creating an almost explosive combustion and cracking the front of the firebox.
I get one layer at a time going and stuff the thing full. I dont shut the door until the stack temps are at a minimum 600 degrees with the probe and all wood is charred. I will have my auber probe tomorrow and will have a better idea of how hot it really is. I have my slide set so the temps go down after I close it up. A lot of times if all I load is ash 3/8 of an inch is too much and you may want to have some tape handy to block the opening a little. It was 34 degrees last night and I got 10 hours out of it. Not using it today or tomorrow, temps are 55 low and 70 for high.
If the inducer is running I normally stuff it full and wait till the temps are in the orange and close the door.
I think you are running it too cool inside the firebox. The whole principle to this is getting it hot enough that it instantly relights with the introduction of oxygen. It should draft enough oxygen to keep a little blue flame at the top of the fire box with everything off and very little or no smoke when it's running right. My stack temps drop to 200-225 between calling for heat but there is that small blue flame along the air holes when I crack the door and the temps on the front are 600-800 without the inducer running with an infrared thermometer. There has been very little, only stage 1, creosote when I have cleaned the chimney.
As a firefighter this thing in my mind is almost creating a backdraft situation, occasionally it will back puff when the wind is out of the south for me. It's doing this when there isn't enough draft to keep a constant flame because my chimney is susceptible to down drafts off the roof. When it does that I just give it a call for heat for 20 min then back the thermostat down again. That gets the heat back up in the firebox and chimney so it's hot enough to keep a small draft and burn the gasses off and the problem stops. This summer I'm going to add another 3 feet to the chimney and that should get it up from the roofline to stop that.
