Is it safe to continue to burn even though a firebrick fell from the ceiling of the stove above the tubes. I was putting wood in and must of hit it just right. It’s below zero and I have no other source of heat. I know it’s not as efficient,I am just not looking to burn the house down. I have oil coming Tuesday. Hope I can just keep the cold at bay until then til I can replace it.
Firebrick fell out... help!!
- Thread starter TaraVT
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
What stove is in this Tara? It would be best to let the stove cool down and then to put the brick back where it came from. Most of the heat will head up the chimney without it in place. If you have a couple of electric heaters, run them while fixing. Use leather gloves if the stove is still warm (but not hot!).
toddnic
Minister of Fire
Check out Lowe's if it broke. I accidentally noticed they carry firebrick while looking for something else.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Go to your local fuel station and fill a couple 5 gallon cans (or 1 can twice) with kerosene...make sure there is no gas left in them first...even better, buy the proper can for diesel or kerosene...diesel cans are yellow...kerosene are blue...dump that in your FO tank to get you by while you fix the stove...you can use diesel fuel too, but that works better if you have an indoor tank. (its warmer, so the diesel fuel doesn't gel up in real cold weather)
I've done this plenty of times when someone runs out of heating oil, (or someone is limping by until pay day)...your furnace/boiler will run just fine on it.
And just FYI, it depends what size burner nozzle you have, but a common nozzle would be 1.0...that's 1 gallon burnt per hour of actual run time...YMMV...nozzles range from about .65 to 1.5 GPH for most houses...now you can roughly calculate how much you need.
Also, you can often go right to the place where you buy your fuel oil and buy a can or two full from them to get you by in emergency situations...it probably would be more likely that they will make you have the proper color can though...
I've done this plenty of times when someone runs out of heating oil, (or someone is limping by until pay day)...your furnace/boiler will run just fine on it.
And just FYI, it depends what size burner nozzle you have, but a common nozzle would be 1.0...that's 1 gallon burnt per hour of actual run time...YMMV...nozzles range from about .65 to 1.5 GPH for most houses...now you can roughly calculate how much you need.
Also, you can often go right to the place where you buy your fuel oil and buy a can or two full from them to get you by in emergency situations...it probably would be more likely that they will make you have the proper color can though...
I bought fire brick from Tractor Supply last year as well. It seems to be the same stuff that comes from the factory with stoves, so it should work out fine. I know for certain a full brick is a standardized size.
Similar threads
- Locked