Fireplace removed, can I reuse the 10.5" outer chimney?
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You can always try running it shorter with class a you can always add to it if need be. But i would run it up as high as you can atleast 20'
I appreciate all of the advice, really I do. I am having trouble coming to grips with all of the extra hell that appeared to be on its face "remove fireplace, install masonry, install stove, enjoy fire"
Now we've expanded it to
Contact government authority for approval to put a 27" stove in a 55" hole
Extend chimney to touch the stars
Quadruple the price of the chimney
Put the beam at a height such that it no longer looks like an alcove.
Remove the stove to sweep the chimney 3x a year?
Now we've expanded it to
Contact government authority for approval to put a 27" stove in a 55" hole
Extend chimney to touch the stars
Quadruple the price of the chimney
Put the beam at a height such that it no longer looks like an alcove.
Remove the stove to sweep the chimney 3x a year?
You could pick a different stove with lower clearances.
You dont have to remove the stove just pull the pipe and you should not need to clean 3x a year if you are burning it correctly
Pine is all there is to burn here. Freaked me out at first, coming from the gulf coast you are raised to NEVER burn pine. But since that is all there is here I just sweep more often.
If it is dry and the stove is burnt correctly there is no need to clean more than once a year. Dry pine burns just as clean as dry hard wood. It just does not have as many btus in it.
Yes on concrete anything non combustible is just fine lol. I didnt realize it was going on a slab
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
You just remove a section of the pipe, and sweep from inside. No big deal I have done it many times.
I would try it at 20 ft and see how it works. If not, pipe will need to be added or consider a stove that breathes a bit easier at high altitude.
I hear you. Alcove locations take a lot more planning than out in the open. If the alcove ceiling is 90" then dropping the beam down to 84" at the bottom is ok. You don't remove the stove. Make the bottom section of pipe telescoping so that it's easy to lift up for cleaning. Or get a stove with a bypass or an easy to remove baffle to make bottom up cleaning easier.
Another mechanical code thing, returns are not permitted within 10 ft of the stove. So if planning to connect to the adjacent room, leave the fan out for the inspection at least.
I am obviously confused. I thought the support box held the chimney up, the stove holds the stove pipe up and all of it is supposed to be screwed and high temp siliconed together.
The support box hold the chimney pipe up at the ceiling level, not the stove. Below the chimney support box connector pipe is used to tie between the stove and the chimney pipe. This connector stove pipe can be single or double wall pipe. At high altitude I would use double-wall connector pipe to keep the flue gases hotter and draft stronger.
I had unfortunately cut and installed the beam at 72" because it was what looked right and gave what I thought was ample space over the stove while still looking like a cozy little space. After all it's not a ceiling and the ceiling was to be over 7'. Moving the beam to 84" now looks...silly. I was going for the old school kitchen alcove look, where the fire area ceiling is low. And the beam was going to shield the Sheetrock area above the stone and ceiling from view Now it just looks like a door to a closet that I've stuffed a stove into. Fantastic.
I didn't think there would be this much planning because I thought the masonry would negate the clearance issues. Now I've got an $800 stove that is uncrated that will only work in the middle of my living room, which I did research beforehand, but misunderstood a key point.
On the bright side the bricks fit perfectly, only 4 need to be cut for the floor.
The housing builder was some sort of moron. Double 2x12 as a header over the fireplace (bearing no load, 1/8 gaps to the stud). Stud gaps of 15, 16, 19" in the wall behind the fireplace. One stud that could be used as a screw, stud gaps above normal ceiling height (I have cathedral ceilings) at 24"
I didn't think there would be this much planning because I thought the masonry would negate the clearance issues. Now I've got an $800 stove that is uncrated that will only work in the middle of my living room, which I did research beforehand, but misunderstood a key point.
On the bright side the bricks fit perfectly, only 4 need to be cut for the floor.
The housing builder was some sort of moron. Double 2x12 as a header over the fireplace (bearing no load, 1/8 gaps to the stud). Stud gaps of 15, 16, 19" in the wall behind the fireplace. One stud that could be used as a screw, stud gaps above normal ceiling height (I have cathedral ceilings) at 24"
Oldman47
Minister of Fire
So, I may need to add 4 feet to my own install depending on how well it drafts. I had anticipated just separating the pipe close above the roof line, but above the storm collar, and then cleaning the remaining installed part and the removed part separately. Is that not a reasonable strategy rather than scaffolding way above the roof or cleaning from below?
That is possible but not easy depending upon how much pipe you will be removing. It is also not that great for the pipe to be taken apart that many times. It in my opinion is much easier to just clean from the bottom
My anxiety with separating the pipe on the roof is that turning it may break the silicone seal at the storm collar and also that the pipe may turn and separate below the roof instead of at the joint above the roof.
Oldman47
Minister of Fire
yeah pretty much lol. Not that it is hard to fix just a pita to thread it back together then go down get the silicone and back up to reseal it ect.
After some searching I've determined that a properly sized wood stove will not fit. Even the suggested Baltic. While the longer narrow stoves will fit side to side they require extra floor coverage, which is not happening.
I've decided that though the wood stove is everything I want in smell, fuel availability, ability to heat without power...sadly the clearance requirements are gargantuan and I'd have to make serious structural modifications to my home or install a seriously undersized stove.
I don't want a pellet stove, but it would appear that I'm left with no choice. I'm going to return my USSC 2500 and I'm considering the PP130.
I've decided that though the wood stove is everything I want in smell, fuel availability, ability to heat without power...sadly the clearance requirements are gargantuan and I'd have to make serious structural modifications to my home or install a seriously undersized stove.
I don't want a pellet stove, but it would appear that I'm left with no choice. I'm going to return my USSC 2500 and I'm considering the PP130.
There are some stoves with much tighter clearances, but they cost more. A deeper firebox is actually a huge benefit once you are burning 24/7. It allows one to load N/S (wood parallel to the stove sides) which permits the stove to be packed tighter without worry about logs rolling into the glass. Having the flexibility to burn N/S or E/W is well worth extending the hearth out at floor level a little bit.
Visit the pellet forum here to discuss model choices. Not all pellet stoves are created equal. Some are much higher maintenance than others and most are noisy. It's basically a compact wood furnace.
Visit the pellet forum here to discuss model choices. Not all pellet stoves are created equal. Some are much higher maintenance than others and most are noisy. It's basically a compact wood furnace.
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