Fireplace removed, can I reuse the 10.5" outer chimney?

[Goodburbon]

My hearth floor is 54" at which point I encounter carpet. Which isn't a big deal, except that the carpet is over tile which would have to be chiseled up to allow the hearth brick to be level. Once that hurdle is overcome the brick which is higher than the carpet will extend into the primary walk path through the room creating an epic toe stubbery. To go wider I'd need to take that space from an adjacent room which has patterned tile that wouldn't look right if a foot of it was gone. That combined with the exposed beam height requirements leave me with no choice.

Remember also that I'm suddenly worse than unemployed. I'm employed and not being utilized which limits my income and consequently my budget for this "money saving" endeavor. Spending another $1000 on a stove and another $600 on a Class A chimney over what I've already spent is really not in the cards.

 

[begreen]

If the carpet is over tile then it might just need to be cut back neatly and trimmed to increase the hearth size. A ceramic tiled floor will work for an ember protection only stove.

I think you will find a good pellet stove is not very inexpensive either, though the venting will cost less. Englander makes a good value stove. See if the local Home Depot has these on sale:
http://www.heatredefined.com/englander/stove/Englander-2200-Sq.-Ft.-Pellet-Stove

 

[Goodburbon]

The brick is red/grey, the tile under the carpet is white and is 1/3rd the height of the Brick, and 1/2 the height of the carpet/pad. I'd considered it but it will look like a bucket of poop and cause trip hazards in a primary walkway.

My goodness that Englander is an ugly bugger.

 

[begreen]

The Englander does have a very basic look. It looks better with the black trim than the brass IMO. For more money they also make the 25-IP which I got to see running. It is quieter, better looking and has an 80 lb. hopper. They also make a bay window model the 25-EP with a smaller 45 lb hopper.
http://www.heatredefined.com/englander/stove/englander-2200-sq.-ft.-imperial-pellet-stove
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-Evolution-2-000-sq-ft-Pellet-Stove-25-EP/100642933

 

[Oldman47]

You have given me a hint in this thread. I am in the process of building a home with no finished floor yet. I have laid out a hearth for my stove but, as Goodburbon noted, if I extend it I will have intrusion into a walkway. Since I have no finished floor yet and may some day want to extend my hearth I am going to go with a larger hearth right now, but the extended area will be at the same height as the finished floor in that walkway. It will be ember protection only but it leaves my options open for the future. On a first build I can adjust so that all of the colors work together while keeping a distinct raised hearth under the present stove. Thanks guys.
Sorry I can't help much with the OPs problem except to suggest that he replace the tile under that carpet with a color that will fit in while keeping the extended hearth at the right level for the walkway.

 

[Goodburbon]

Turns out the local Stove man actually lives within sight of my house. A neighbor dropped by to give us some Veggies for the animals and passed the info to the stove man. He stopped by as I was preparing to load the wood stove for return. He reiterated my sentiment as far as chimney height goes. No one with a single story home here is running a 25' Chimney (7700'), that's just silly. Mine will be 19 or so, 20 with the cap.

After consulting with him, taking a few measurements etc. We ARE going to keep the Wood stove and maybe the 10.5", but run the 6" class A through it. I've created a 1" air gap around the outside of the brick which did eat up an extra 3" but buys enough clearance leeway with the stove. He did not consider the exposed beam to be "ceiling" either and since he's the guy who's gonna sign off on it I kept it.

I'm nearly done with the stone work, it's taken several extra days because I've chosen Liquid Nails Heavy Duty and it can't really hold up the bricks very well until it's cured. I waited 12 hours after putting up the first 2 rows, and mistakenly removed the 1" spacer I had holding it up. The first rows sagged within minutes of me adding the next 3 rows. Liquid Nails is listed as Non flammable, with a working temp of 140* but the time to cure well enough to hold the weight of the bricks was nearly 2 days.

As for the hearth extending into the walkway, I'll come up with something, or not, the code only calls for 16" of clearance in front of the stove, while the stove manual calls for 26". I've got 20" without any modifications.

 

[bholler]

Turns out the local Stove man actually lives within sight of my house. A neighbor dropped by to give us some Veggies for the animals and passed the info to the stove man. He stopped by as I was preparing to load the wood stove for return. He reiterated my sentiment as far as chimney height goes. No one with a single story home here is running a 25' Chimney (7700'), that's just silly. Mine will be 19 or so, 20 with the cap.
After consulting with him, taking a few measurements etc. We ARE going to keep the Wood stove and maybe the 10.5", but run the 6" class A through it. I've created a 1" air gap around the outside of the brick which did eat up an extra 3" but buys enough clearance leeway with the stove. He did not consider the exposed beam to be "ceiling" either and since he's the guy who's gonna sign off on it I kept it.

What do you mean by local stove guy? Unless he is a code official he has no authority to override code requirements. And as far as the ceiling goes i am sorry he is wrong

I'm nearly done with the stone work, it's taken several extra days because I've chosen Liquid Nails Heavy Duty and it can't really hold up the bricks very well until it's cured. I waited 12 hours after putting up the first 2 rows, and mistakenly removed the 1" spacer I had holding it up. The first rows sagged within minutes of me adding the next 3 rows. Liquid Nails is listed as Non flammable, with a working temp of 140* but the time to cure well enough to hold the weight of the bricks was nearly 2 days.

Liquid nails is not an acceptable adhesive for use on a heat sheild and 140 is not a high enough temp.

As for the hearth extending into the walkway, I'll come up with something, or not, the code only calls for 16" of clearance in front of the stove, while the stove manual calls for 26". I've got 20" without any modifications.

If the manual calls for 26" that is what is required by code no questions asked

If you dont want to follow code that is up to you but if something happens dont be surprised if your insurance claim is denied. Or if it fails an inspection by code or insurance

 

[bholler]

I do agree that i personally would try it at the height you have now and as long as you can confirm that you have 2" from the outside of the class a to any combustible materials then there is no problem running it through the old outer shell

 

[Goodburbon]

We are pulling the cap to verify there will be clearance.

 

[bholler]

We are pulling the cap to verify there will be clearance.

Good on that point then

 

[Goodburbon]

It's in and Burning off that new stove smell. Drafts like crazy, I had a hard time starting the fire because it kept blowing the kindling out. Of course winds outside were 15-30 so I'm sure that helped.

We were able to reposition the stove to get all of the clearances we need, and there was lots of clearance at the roof crossing and through the chase.

I'm coming from a lifetime of fireplaces so forgive me...My goodness I had no idea how much heat these things put out. My wife is gonna kill me, she hates being hot and this thing is 600 degrees with the air inlet fully closed. I erroneously thought I would be able to burn smaller loads in a larger stove for less heat. I put 3 pieces of wood in just as a small start and it's been burning over 500 for 3 hours now! That would have been gone in 30 minutes or less with little change to ambient temps with the old fireplace. Oh, and secondaries, that's neat stuff.

U.S. stove
Country hearth
2500

 

[Goodburbon]

Ok, after burning 4 hours on 3 logs (the recommended break in is 4 hours) I opened the air up and let the coals burn down. Then I loaded her up and waited for fire. She flared and I closed the intake. Too soon, killed the fire and started smoking. I opened her back up and let her fire till the secondaries lit off, then closed it all the way back up.

Here I am an hour later with the intake fully closed with stovetop temps of 850++ on the manual gauge and out of range of my digital gauge. The double wall stove pipe is 300* and bluing 18" above the stove. It's 25* outside and 85* in my living room and I've got a lazy fire with a blazing crazy secondary.....3-4 logs at a time from now on, this is stupid hot.

 

[begreen]

The stove is going to have a short life at that temperature.

 

[Goodburbon]

The stove is going to have a short life at that temperature.

Now I get to read up on how to fix it. Doesn't appear to be a gasket leak, as the airflow through the box is not turbulent when it passes the front door.

For now it seems 1 log gets me 300* for an hour or so at 1/4" open or 200* for 3 hours fully closed which is reasonable.

3 logs gets me 600-700* for 4 hours varying between 1/8" open and fully closed. This really heats up the room it's in quick, and is the hottest I want to burn it.

A full load with a fully closed air pegs my temp gauges for 3 hours then burns down to coals over the next 5 hours.

 

[Goodburbon]

Ive had the stove a year now and I couldn't be more pleased. I haven't needed a space heater except in the bathroom that has no air circulation. I burn a single log at a time during the day and a full load will leave a nice bed of coals for the morning. There was no seal problem, I just had to learn my stove better. I can turn a few leftover coals into a roaring fire in 20 minutes.

The air circulation through the house and down the hallway was solved by a cage type fan on the floor at the end of the hall. Blowing cold air along the floor towards the living room there is a warm breeze in your face headed to the back of the house. The bedrooms can actually get too warm for my wife, and a space heater isn't actually needed in the bathroom when I set the fans right but my wife can't take the heat.

A single log will last 2 hours and a full load will have a few coals left in 10 hours.

The thermometer must've been inaccurate because the stove still looks great. The brick surround I made has never gotten more than warm to the touch.

The glass will soot up if I'm not burning hot, but one hot fire cleans it right up.