fireplace stove insert efficiency increase w/ liner????????? HELP!

[ekim189]

Hey, guys thanks in advance for all your help in answering this question. I am currently renting an A-frame cabin (approx. 700 square feet) with an OLD fireplace insert. I"m burning a LOT of firewood, with little heat to show for it. Currently the stove does not have a liner. Recently, when temps dropped about 5 below the heat in the cabin was about 45 degrees, which is too chilly for my liking. This 45 deg. was recorded in the morning, after sitting all night with the dampers closed. Lets, assume just for grins and giggles that my insulation is adequate.

I have been told by law I have to have a flue liner from the top of the stove, all the way out the top of the stack. My question is will my house be considerably warmer once this liner has been added? I am only making the assumptions with the small size of my house, and the size of my box on the stove, I should just cook my self right out of the house.

Also, will my wood burn time increase? Currently with a full stacked box with dry wood, i get maybe a 6 hour burn with dampers shut down. (At 5-6 hours I"m not talking about the flame is out, but all the coals have died out too) At a previous cabin i used to get 10-12+ hours on a full box.

Any advice you can give me is GREATLY appreciated! I"m cold! LOL

 

[Todd]

Sounds like the main problem is the old insert? What kind of stove? Is this old fireplace insert just a slide in type with no pipe or block off plate? For best efficiency and easiest cleaning a full liner and block off plate at the old fireplace damper area is best. Have any pictures?

Marquette is a great place to live. I was stationed there at the US Coast Guard station for 4 years back in the 90's. I lived in Skandia.

 

[brooktrout]

You don't have to spend a lot of money. Because you already have an existing masonry chimney, you can go with single wall pipe up to the top. Quite easy to do. If you can't fabricate a block off plate (seals the space around the pipe as it pases through the chimney damper) you can stuff that area with insulation (minus the paper backing!). This will greatly decrease the heat loss and increase the draft. Both contribute to a more efficient stove. This set up I describe is not the ultimate, i.e., stainless double-walled flue, etc, but it will work if you can't or don't want to spend the big bucks.

 

[DAKSY]

you can go with single wall pipe up to the top.

While you might think this is the way to go, it is ABSOLUTELY not to code...
Single-wall connector is NOT approved for inside a chimney.
It is ONLY apporoved from the stove TO the chimney, with the proper clearances to combustibles...
INSIDE a chimney, you HAVE to use an approved liner..

Quite easy to do. If you can't fabricate a block off plate (seals the space around the pipe as it pases through the chimney damper) you can stuff that area with insulation (minus the paper backing!). This will greatly decrease the heat loss and increase the draft. Both contribute to a more efficient stove.

Agreed - almost.
The efficiency of the stove will be found on the rating plate. I
t is the amount of heat you get out of the amount od fuel you burn. It dos not take the chimney or the set-up into question.
The block-off plate/insulation will keep the HEAT in & the COLD out.