Fireplace stove install requirements

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josde21

Member
Mar 1, 2015
15
Vernon, NJ
I have been researching how to install my wood stove in my fireplace. I have an existing masonry fireplace, and masonry chimney. The room is quite small, and I want it set back as far as possible into the fireplace. (I know many of you are going to tell me that it will not be as efficient this way....I am aware, I don't have much choice)

I've found that many people have the flexible chimney liner pipe going only part way up the chimney from the stove. Also, many other people have run the flexible chimney liner from the stove all the way up to the top of the chimney. This seems to be the preferred method.

I would like to run the flex liner pipe from the top of the stove up through the chimney to the top.
I would ideally like to not use the T section off the back of the stove, and instead just run it from the top of the stove, to the top of the chimney.

My question for the group here is, other than not having a clean out on the T, is there any code or reason why I shouldn't be able to do this?

My second question is, there seems to be some who prefer a insulated or pre-insulated flexible chimney liner. Insulated meaning you glue the insulation to the pipe. Pre-insulated meaning less work to add the insulation.

Can anyone give me some advice about what is required in NJ, as well as other advice about this?

Thanks in advance
 
The insulated flex liner all the way to the top is the way to go. Insulated for safety's sake and best draft. All the way up so you don't have to pull the stove and block off plate every time you clean the chimney. Most fireplaces require a 15 or 30 degree elbow in the flue collar of the stove to mate up with the liner. No tee needed. You take the baffle out of the stove and sweep the accumulation down into the stove at sweeping time.

I am kinda fond of stoves in fireplaces.

30 first fire 2007-2008.jpg
 
Can anyone give me some advice about what is required in NJ, as well as other advice about this?
if it will fit there is no reason that you cant come straight down on to the stove it meets code just fine. As far as the insulation it needs to be insulated unless you have proper clearance to combustibles. Which means for and exterior chimney you need 1" between the outside of the masonry and any combustible materials and that is 2" for an internal chimney. pre insulated versus regular mainly comes down to personal preference we don't use pre insulated because it is not available from our suppliers with the heavy wall flex liner that we use for wood stoves but if you are going with light wall liner or some offer the mid weight there is no reason not to use it other that the price increase
 
The insulated flex liner all the way to the top is the way to go. Insulated for safety's sake and best draft. All the way up so you don't have to pull the stove and block off plate every time you clean the chimney. Most fireplaces require a 15 or 30 degree elbow in the flue collar of the stove to mate up with the liner. No tee needed. You take the baffle out of the stove and sweep the accumulation down into the stove at sweeping time.

I am kinda fond of stoves in fireplaces.

View attachment 155433


Just wanted to say thank you for your reply. This information was very helpful to me. Just installed yesterday.....finally warmed up in here! Thanks again.
 
if it will fit there is no reason that you cant come straight down on to the stove it meets code just fine. As far as the insulation it needs to be insulated unless you have proper clearance to combustibles. Which means for and exterior chimney you need 1" between the outside of the masonry and any combustible materials and that is 2" for an internal chimney. pre insulated versus regular mainly comes down to personal preference we don't use pre insulated because it is not available from our suppliers with the heavy wall flex liner that we use for wood stoves but if you are going with light wall liner or some offer the mid weight there is no reason not to use it other that the price increase

Just wanted to say thanks for your reply....Appreciate your advice and response, it was helpful. I went with the flex liner with no insulation....going to burn it like this for a while, and see how it goes. I was told to use pink (regular) fiberglass insulation with no backing to insulate at the top and bottom of the stove, but learned that is not good advice.

Just curious what you use for insulation at the top and bottom of the pipe, or if you don't insulate at all.

Anyway, thanks again for your help.
 
Roxul mineral wool insulation is what I used. You can get it at Lowe's these days.
 
Hi fellow jersey guy, I am still burning 24/7 even though it warmed up. However it is mighty raw outside so we like the heat.
You will be happy with that setup. I have a T in my setup as I kept stove all the way out front.

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Hi fellow jersey guy, I am still burning 24/7 even though it warmed up. However it is mighty raw outside so we like the heat.
You will be happy with that setup. I have a T in my setup as I kept stove all the way out front.

Thanks for the photos and for reaching out to me. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I am still burning now, too! When will it warm up? Anyway, I am thoroughly enjoying the stove and this set up. Just trying to get as much heat out of it as possible.
 
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